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Author Topic: Avalanche drilling question. (Read 1238 times)

SleepOnIce

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Avalanche drilling question.
on: July 24, 2008, 12:30:19 AM
I'm getting an Avalanche Pearl to use on med. dry to dry lanes, or on the Cheetah. I was wondering whether I should get it drilled pin up or pin down.
Stats: Rev Rate: 250-300 (measured at 300, but I'm not sure)
Speed: 14-14.5 MPH
PAP: 3-7/8 over and 3/16 Up

I like having all of my equipment drilled strong, but that's hurting me because I keep struggling to keep my equipment on the right side of the headpin on most conditions under medium. Unless there is decent carrydown.
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BLARGH

Corey C

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Re: Avalanche drilling question.
Reply #1 on: July 24, 2008, 09:04:29 AM
The Avs have a diff of .020. a strong drill is recommended for most people. It's very sensitive to carrydown, mine only comes out on toast.
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Corey Clayton
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Corey Clayton
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dizzyfugu

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Re: Avalanche drilling question.
Reply #2 on: July 24, 2008, 09:53:21 AM
I haven't thrown one, but from what I have seen and read about the AvP: do not drill it too weak! It goes very long by design as long there is a little oil left. The differential is very low, so the ball would IMHO be drilled best with a high pin in a stronger position, if you do not want a ball that goes almost dead straight.
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Edited on 7/24/2008 10:35 AM
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directdrill

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Re: Avalanche drilling question.
Reply #3 on: July 24, 2008, 10:10:13 AM
I have the Avalanche Solid drilled pin over middle finger, ~5-3/4" from PAP, CG under ring, no weight hole and box finish.  This is a great drier condition ball for me.  Gets great length with a nice arc on the backend, and very controllable.
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Cambumbo

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Re: Avalanche drilling question.
Reply #4 on: July 24, 2008, 10:19:13 AM
Drill it strong and let the ball do what it was designed to do. That was Ric Hamlin advice to me and he was right.

Edited on 7/24/2008 10:19 AM

iRONLiON

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Re: Avalanche drilling question.
Reply #5 on: June 10, 2018, 01:54:54 PM
I wonder what the layout on my Avalanche Solid is about  :-[
Haven't rolled for quite some time and want to restart. Lanes are mostly medium dry to completely dry.
The driller told me that He watched my game for like 15 minutes and this layout is "the one you need".   :o
As far as i remember, i was standing at the second point and aimed at the 2nd arrow.
I've always struggled to get many revs and i am not the strongest, so the ball is not the fastest, i guess  ???
Best game was a 219 most of the times i am struggeling to convert my spares.

And as second question i wanna ask what can happen to a ball when it's in the bag and not rolled for about 10 years? Never did anything to the surface, so it's still OOB.
Oh, and it is my first ball after my spareball, and it's the first drilling on it.
https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/35077702_10212165284542822_7554195020887097344_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=9a63f72270a30f46d6d1234aea8365f3&oe=5BB2E3DB

BowlingForDonuts

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Re: Avalanche drilling question.
Reply #6 on: June 13, 2018, 04:02:23 PM
Not sure exactly of your first problem (like what it is) but on your second if a ball sits for a decade the core can separate from the cover stock and you would get a very weak hollow sounding hit.  Also did you clean the ball after every session before?  You should from now on.  After a decade its also probably a good idea to get the ball resurfaced and perhaps de-oiled if maintenance was lax.  That can often bring an old ball back to life.  That ball by the way has one of the best cover stocks ever made on it (imo, have a similar ball I love).  It might be somewhat weaker today but if you are bowling on dry it should be perfect.

(edit: on second reading it sounds like the ball just isn't moving for you.  Not a layout expert so going to defer to someone more experienced but its my experience in general layout changing is more of a tweak than giant fix especially if you are lower rev like me, changing surface usually much better for getting the ball reaction you are looking for.  Lower grit is more surface which generally means the ball starts hooking earlier, smoother, more overall but less at the end of the lane.  Higher grit and or with compound or polish means the ball skids further before hooking but responds to the friction at end of the lane harder, ie turns on backend more but less overall hook.  Only caveats is if you have too much surface for the friction you are seeing your ball will stop hooking early and hit the pins very weak (roll out) and if you have too little surface depending on your bowling style the ball might act like a spare ball and skid right through breakpoint and never turn and also hit weak due to the ball not rolling.  Getting the right balance is sadly a fair amount of trial and error.
Last Edit: June 13, 2018, 06:51:52 PM by BowlingForDonuts
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