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Author Topic: Warp Zone  (Read 18413 times)

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Warp Zone
« on: December 31, 1969, 06:00:00 PM »
Ball NPS Score: Not Available
Description:

Warp Zone, the second ball in the Zone-Asymmetric series expands on and complements the original Time Zone by using a medium-load particle coverstock over the Time Zone core. The medium-load particle coverstock increases traction in the oil and improves control on dry boards. This complementary ball reaction creates a better match up on heavy oil and over/under lane conditions. Bowlers with faster ball speeds and/or large amounts of axis tilt (low track, spinner release) will benefit from the Warp Zones increased traction in the oil.

When drilling the Warp Zone, placement of the Riser Pin and the PSA locator (relative to the bowler’s axis) influences the amount of track flare created, contributing to the on lane ball reaction. The unique “ellipse” engraving* around the riser pin on the Warp Zone allows the bowler to easily see the orientation of the core and the PSA when looking at their ball, making it easier to identify the choice of layout.

Utility
Out of the box: The Warp Zone is an ideal heavy oil ball. The medium-load particle coverstock increases traction and hooking action in the oil, reducing skid and maximizing playability in heavy oil.

When shined: Using Brunswick’s Factory Finish High Gloss Polish the total hooking action of the Warp Zone can be reduced and the arc made more skid/snap. Changing the surface finish in this way allows the Warp Zone to be used to smooth the over/under reactions seen with Reactive coverstock balls on wet/dry lane conditions.

Reaction Setup
There are additional layout considerations for a ball with a significant Preferential Spin Axis (PSA) such as the Warp Zone. The distance from the riser pin still determines the overall strength of the layout the same way it does in symmetric core balls that have an insignificant PSA. In the Warp Zone, placement of the PSA locator relative to the riser pin and the bowler’s axis can be used to modify the reaction created by a given riser pin position. See the attached sample layouts for the most popular drilling options.

WARNING – Both the Warp Zone & Time Zone have a large amount of asymmetry designed into the core. Do not place the PSA locator pin on the negative side of the ball, you could track over every hole on the ball!

The Warp Zone is finished with a dull 400-grit surface finish which increases its hooking action in the oil. Dull surface finishes can sometimes hook too early resulting in reduced backend reaction and hitting power. To increase length, polish the surface with Brunswick’s Factory Finish High Gloss Polish

Coverstock
Particle Medium-Load
Color: Sapphire Blue
Hardness: 76-78
Glow Engraving
Factory Finish
400-grit wet sand
Core Dynamics
RG Max: 2.600
RG Int: 2.585
RG Min: 2.553
RG Diff: 0.047
RG Asy: 0.015
RG Avg: 5.5
Performance
Hook Potential 150
Length 45
Breakpoint Shape 50
Available Weights
12-16 Pounds

 

SAR1stuNNa1

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2003, 12:38:23 PM »
Revmaster,

   Where do you have the mass bias at? The CG doesn't really matter in an asymmetrical ball. If you were to move the mass bias away from your track and put it on the other side the ball would save some energy. The ball also comes really dull, so you might want to shine it. I just got mine and can't wait to punch it up.

-Shawn Ryan

strikealot

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2003, 11:40:04 PM »
revmaster, i would try a little polish also, and robert smith actually has this grip to cut down on revs believe it or not. i ask him this question myself. i used this grip last year and averaged 224 and 228. i had more control of my equipment. this year i changed back, im always playing with my grip and drill patterns.
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NeoSquall

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2003, 05:14:02 AM »
revmonster.. weird guy. he doesnt follow the layout that is given to him ! look at his drilling ! pin on the palm ? wtf ? cg and pin line up pararrel ? hahahah 1!! anywayz, I think he is either a straight ball player or a player with tons of revs OR he plays hook like 2 - 5 boards like tat only. u see his choice of balls ! plastic ball ? holy phuck ! he just lurves plastic balls and he only give one positive view on ONE reactive ball only.. and that is wired.. Im not offending him in anyway or so, just telling u all !
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SAR1stuNNa1

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2003, 03:48:07 AM »
Finally drilled mine up. I drilled it label with the mass bias under my thumb. The ball reaction is clean with a nice controlled back end. I shined it with the Brunswick factory polish because out of the box it is too dull. The ball hook/sets but the is common for label drillings, but this ball is different because once it rolls out it continues to roll. This ball hits just like the time zone, like a truck. This ball is a great compliment to the time zone if you want to eliminate the over/under they give you.

-Shawn Ryan-

JuniorsProShop - Bobby

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2003, 01:57:10 AM »
We drilled this for a customer, over the label, cg down below midline and the pin under the ring finger. Previously, this guy couldn't get anything to hook. Throws it very hard with minimal revs. Bowled on second shift league, wood lanes.

This ball hoooooooks. Finally found a ball for him that gave him some reaction. Ball cleared the front for him pretty well and made a strong hard move to the hole. Something we never saw from him!!! He was actually able to move into the oil line and get a reaction from this ball. This ball appears to be one of the biggest hookers on the market right now. Hit very well, even considering his low rev rate.

However, this ball may check up early for someone who has a little hand in it. Very strong ball. You will have to keep this one in the oil or you will get some hook stop reaction. But, with the right condition, this ball looks to be a monster. Same great hitting power as the Time Zone but a lot more overall hook. Will post more when we drill for someone with a little more hand in it.
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RandyO

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2003, 10:51:06 PM »
Without a doubt the best particle ball I’ve ever thrown. This ball is VERSATILE. It can be most anything you want it to be. Drill it up to roll early and keep it at the factory 400 grit and you have an oil eating hook-monster. Lay it out for some movement, smooth the finish, put on some polish, and you have a house-shot killer. I just drilled up my second one. The first one is layed out for control – pin under ring, PSA about 3/4" right of the thumbhole. http://www.pipeline.com/~randyo/arsenal/15warpzone.jpg
The factory 400 surface was lightly shined with some Track Magic. This one gives me a straighter trajectory than the 2nd one, although straight is a relative term when you’re talking Warp Zones. The second one is layed out with my favorite drill – pin over ring, PSA near the right edge of the thumbhole. http://www.pipeline.com/~randyo/arsenal/15warpzone2.jpg
The CG on this ball was a bit right of the Pin-PSA line, so it ended up with around +3/4 side. I worked this one up on my Vertex spinner (shameless plug) to 600, then 1000 wet sand, followed by a bit of the Track Clean & Smooth to smooth out the sanding lines just a bit. After a good wipedown, I gave it a nice shine with the Track Magic. Threw this ball today for around 5 or 6 games on a pair down on the end of the house where I rarely get to play. 3 year old DBA synthetics. Medium to Medium heavy house shot with out-of-bounds if you feed it too far right and get it outside 7 board too quickly. Downlane you can hit as far out as 5 or 6 at the breakpoint, but it’s death if you get it out that far right too quickly. Not a lot of hold area if you get slow with your speed or turn it too early. The left lane was hooking – I was swinging from around 23 or 24 at the foul line across 15, out to about 7 at the breakpoint, and the ball was making it back with POP. I had to throw the ball poorly to prevent it from carrying. Normally, in my home center, particle balls are death for me if I have to cover a lot of boards. The ball just burns up. The only particle ball I’ve ever really had success with in that house is the Icon2, and it’s a pretty light particle load – really more of a strong solid (unfortunately, the Icon 2 cracks way too easily – so it’s gone). This shined Warp was amazing, getting back to the hole with energy and awesome hit. The right lane required a much tighter alignment, with a laydown point around 18 to around 13 at the arrows, out to around 6 or 7 at the breakpoint. Again – great recovery and hit. On the tighter right lane I actually had a few airborne scouts slap down the 10 pin as they were passing by. I can count on one finger how often that happens for me! Best thing was that the reaction was very predictable. I was able to line up and play the tamer Warp Zone #1 on both lanes but with a straighter trajectory, or move left a few boards and strike with the Warp Zone #2.
I am really impressed with this latest offering from Brunswick. The new assymetrical Zone core is impressive in helping this ball get down the lanes, and is a good match to the Powerkoil 18 coverstock with the its medium particle load. An added bonus is that it tweaks so easily – throw away the Trizact – this one takes REAL sandpaper. Those of you who liked the Eliminator will love this one. Smooth a Warp Zone to 1500 grit, polish it to a high gloss, and you have an Eliminator on Steroids. Throw in the less than premium price, and you have one of the best bargains in the Pro Shop.
Just for comparison purposes – I brought along my ‘league-shot’ Inferno:
http://www.pipeline.com/~randyo/arsenal/15inferno1.jpg,
a new Blazing Inferno,
http://www.pipeline.com/~randyo/arsenal/blazinginferno.jpg
and a Fire Quantum. Both the Inferno and Blazing Inferno are layed out similar to Warp Zone #2. I was able to play the original Inferno similar to where I was throwing Warp #2, but it didn’t carry as well on shots missed right, and there was a bit of a ‘hang spot’ on the right lane which affected the Inferno but the Warp Zone just ignored it. Shots tugged a bit inside the intended line would also want to start up a bit too early with the Inferno due to its lower RG. In this house, you don’t want to miss left using a low RG ball or a ball with any kind of surface. Warp Zone #2 gave me about 1 board of area to the left and 1 to 2 to the right.
The Blazing played 3 boards tighter on the left lane and 2 tighter on the right lane, carried well, and would have been my step-down ball once the shot burned up had I been ‘bowling for dollars’. The Warp Zone is a keeper. Don’t leave home without it.

RandyO

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2003, 04:12:40 PM »
My previous review was focused on Warp Zone #2, which was layed out for league conditions. I finally had an opportunity to throw Warp Zone #1 on a condition which was more suited for its layout. Sport shot tournament, a PBA Gold Pin 6-gamer that runs in Earl Anthony's Dublin Bowl once a month. The center had new Brunswick Pro-Anvilanes, and they put out a 39' heavy volume 2 to 1 shot with the heavier volume between 11 & 29. The shot played like you would expect. I threw a couple of practice balls with the Raging Inferno and left a solid 5 on one shot so it was back in the bag for that puppy. The Bruiser didn't wrinkle much at all, and the oil volume was too heavy for the Inferno. I pulled out the Warp Zone with the tame layout, light polish,  and 400 grit surface http://www.pipeline.com/~randyo/arsenal/15warpzone.jpg. A few practice shots quickly told me that I was going to be playing a tight alignment with this ball, so I tried the polished league-shot Warp Zone, hoping for a little bit of swing room. That one was finishing too late - and since I don't own a Swamp Monster YET, the decision was final - Warp Zone #1 it was. First 5 frames of game 1 were eye-openers. I had 1 strike, a 2-4-5 spare, and 3 pocket splits (5-7, 4-5, 5-7). Spared both the 5-7's and barely missed the 4-5. I'm pretty stubborn and a slow learner, but even I could figure out that less rotation and swing speed was called for, so I altered the release to be a bit more up-the-back, calmed down, relaxed the swing, and finished pretty strong for a 209. Game 2 was entirely forgetable - struggled with speed and alignment, had a couple of beak splits, no carry - had a chance to pull out an acceptable game with a strong 9th & 10th but still NO BREAKS - a big 168. Bummer. Game 3 I was starting to feel comfortable with the shot, executed well, carried better and ended up at 214. Last 3 games put me in the $$. 258-194-246. Most of the shots that didn't carry for me were due to my errors - either being too deep on the first few shots after moving to a new pair, or just poor execution leading to a weaker release. These types of errors are MAGNIFIED on a sport shot, and don't usually have much of an effect on your typical house-shot. During the 6 games, the shot held up well. I started playing tight (laydown at around 16 to around 13-14 at the arrows in the early games, then as the shot developed and opened up a bit I was able to swing a bit more playing (depending on the lane) as much as 17-18 laydown point out to 12-13 at the arrows. On all lanes you could NOT get beyond 10 at the breakpoint unless it was past the oil line AND you had a lot of hand. I don't - so that area was out-of-bounds. I saw a few slow-strokers trying to point it up from the outside, but they all ended up down in the red numbers.
Important thing was that this ball did EXACTLY what I laid it out to do. It gave me a playable shot on heavy oil, stayed in play the whole day, and carried well WHEN I EXECUTED. It reacted predictably to hand changes, never burned up early (as if anything could on that oil), and would probably have been good for another 5 or 6 games before I'd have needed to go with less surface. It would have been interesting to have had a 3rd Warp in the bag, with a more aggressive layout and NO POLISH to see if I could have opened the lane up earlier like the big-hand players, but that's an experiment for another day. This tournament confirmed my initial impression that this ball is very versatile, responding well to different layouts and surface adjustments. It carries like a MONSTER on a house shot, and the hit and carry was good on the tougher shot too but only if I executed properly (imagine that).
For any of you who have any doubts about the caliber of talent in the PBA, one of our local players who's a consistent casher on the Regional level, and a part-time player on the National Tour with only an occasional cash at that level dominated this patttern. Made it look easy and finished +206 for the 6 game block to take 1st place money (I was 4th at +89).

Bob Hanson

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2004, 08:15:00 PM »
I drilled my Warp with the pin just under the ring finger about 4 inches from PAP.  I kicked the cg just enough right to put the mass bias about 1 inch right of my grip line in the thumb positive quadrant.  I was a little more conservative than usual because I was warned how strong the mb was in this ball.  I left the ball in box condition so far.  The Warp seems to be one of the better strong particle balls I have tried of late.  The asymetric core gives it a different look than the early proactive zones or the Detonator.  So far I haven't really hit a condition where the ball totally distinguishes itself, but I think it will give me a little more pop from inside than balls like the Raging Inferno.  I do notice that it will burn a track in the heads more quickly, forcing me to make faster moves in transition.  All of these strong shelled particles tend to burn on me if I get them into the dry, so I always look to see how they hit when I jam them into the oil a little bit.  Again, the Warp looks promising compared to my Fear Factor and Raging Inferno.

Dwight Albrecht

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2004, 10:45:03 PM »
Warp Zone Review

If you like the Time Zone but struggle when the lanes are oily and the Time Zone does not hook, you will love the Warp Zone. This Blue lightly sanded medium load particle ball has a large Asymmetric core. Main riser pin and small locator pin position from your axis are crucial to proper ball reaction and where the ball tracks. Do not put the small locator pin in your track or at 110 degree position.

I love my Time Zones so much I could not wait for this one to come in. I drilled my Warp Zone with the pin 3 ¾ from my axis and placed the small locator pin at a 45 degree angle. This takes the ellipse shape around the main riser pin and makes it looker taller. The taller the ellipse looks the longer the ball will push down the lanes usually with more back end.

I used this ball on a fresh shift shot with clean backends. This ball was awesome!!! Extremely impressed with how clean it gets through the heads and how strong but smooth it transitions when it reads the dry. I just love the roll pattern of this ball. Very quick revving and aggressive reaction on the backends makes me look like a cranker when I am just a tweener.

The only negative I could write on this ball is that the particle cover stock seems to shine up quick with oil absorption.  A stronger cleaner along with a green scotch brite pad brings it right back to new very quickly. I would say the Warp Zone is about 4-6 boards more hook than a lightly sanded time zone with a quicker rev rate. It is also a earlier hooking and more over all hooking ball than choices like the Columbia Throttle or Track Phenom.  This ball is a great choice for oily lanes if you condition the cover stock on a regular basis.

In closing, if you struggle when the lanes are oily or do not put a lot of revs on the ball you will definitely love this ball along as you keep up on the maintenance of cleaning and sanding’s. Thanks for reading my review.

Dwight

coltfoet5

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2004, 03:33:33 PM »
How can you go wrong when you drill one up for a guy and his first 3 games with it is a 848 series with a 300 the first game. YOU CAN'T. 848 for a 17 year old kid bowling in a match for high school, unbelievable. That ball has one of the best weight blocks ever with a good solid surface to grab the lane. TERRIFIC
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bowlingstickboy

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #11 on: January 29, 2004, 03:59:03 PM »
I would have to agree with the last post.  I drilled my Warp Zone last week and I am averaging close to 240 on the house shot.  I drilled a 15lb with a 3in pin and 2.5 oz of top weight before drilling.  The layout is 12 pin with a 1/2 in positive shift and the PSA pin at 3 o'clock next to the thumb hole.  This ball is smooth down the lane and arcs nicely.  Can't wait to see how it roll on a PBA condition.

Pete

Trackbowling

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2004, 07:28:02 PM »
This ball is great. The ball has a great backend.I bowled with it on medium lane conditons it came in the pocket good but left alot of 4 pins. I was shooting the 12 board it hit hard but on dry lanes it hooked way to much went right threw the head pin.

800302

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #13 on: March 05, 2004, 05:12:15 PM »
I believe that this ball is not what Brunswick says it is.I have older Ebonite and Lane 1 equipment that does more then this ball.I have to play a very tight down and in shot with this ball to get to do anything.I had it drilled to hook on ice.Out of 1-10. 1 Hate the ball would not recommend it to anyone.

MENDOZA

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Re: Warp Zone
« Reply #14 on: March 10, 2004, 07:28:29 PM »
WELL I GOT THIS BALL BECAUSE I WAS HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY FIRST GAME.THE BALL I WAS USING WAS THE TIME ZONE. THE PROBLEM I WAS HAVING WAS THAT I COULDN'T GET THE BALL TO HOOK UP THE WAY I WANTED IT TO. I HAVE MY EQUIPMENT TO HOOK EARLY BECAUSE THAT GIVES ME MORE ROOM FOR ERROR. I THROW THE BALL WITH A LOT OF REVS AND I CAN SPEED IT UP/DOWN WHEN I NEED TO.I CAN'T REALLY SAY MUCH BECAUSE I HAVEN'T WORKED OUT ALL THE KINKS BUT SO FAR SO GOOD.SO IF YOU NEED A BALL THAT HOOKS UP GOOD FOR THE FIRST GAME THEN THIS ONE WILL DO BUT THAT ME AND YOU'LL HAVE TO TRY IT YOURSELF...BE BACK LATER WHEN I GET SOME MORE GAMES UNDER MY BELT WITH THIS BALL.THANX
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MENDOZA