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Author Topic: Question on polish  (Read 571 times)

daves123

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Question on polish
« on: December 23, 2017, 08:20:53 AM »
This is probably a stupid question but I'm  going to ask it anyway. What kind of polish do I use to bring back a so called factory polished surface after being resurfaced?
It seems like there are many different types of polish out there or does it really matter.

 

Aloarjr810

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Re: Question on polish
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2017, 08:49:04 AM »
If your wanting the return the ball to the OOB surface it would depend on which ball you have what the steps are and the polish the company suggests using.

Example:
A lot of Brunswick balls finish off with  Factory Finish High Gloss Polish.

A lot of Storm balls finish off with Storm Step 2.

Of course some people just use what they have on hand.



« Last Edit: December 23, 2017, 08:54:11 AM by Aloarjr810 »
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notclay

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Re: Question on polish
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2017, 08:55:22 AM »
Yes, it does matter. (I was typing while Aloarjr810 was responding)

First, I'd find out what surface grit the factory used before the "polish" and then which polish or compound was used.  All polishes are not the same.  Some have more "slip agents" than others to create extra length before hooking, and some have tiny abrasives, too.   

Compounds have more abrasives, typically, and when used give the appearance of polish, but help the ball pick up the lane slightly earlier depending on how they are applied, and the underlying surface grit.

If you can tell us which ball you're referring to there are guys here who can look that up on the website of the particular ball.
« Last Edit: December 23, 2017, 08:56:55 AM by notclay »
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charlest

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Re: Question on polish
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2017, 09:15:14 AM »
In accordance with what the others have already said, all factory "Polished" surfaces can be emulated by sanding with a base undercoat of 500 to 4000 grit, left dull. Then applying the "good" factory polish of your choice. There are many of them.

Aside:
The problem with most factory surfaces, polished or dull, is that they are often very difficult to reproduce with a home spinner. I (and many others) strongly recommend you never use the factory finish, but apply your own surface, in so far as it is possible, which should be specific to the oil pattern and lane surface on which you're bowling. This is true even if your result appears to replicate the factory finish. The main reason is that it will be so much easier to reproduce, when the surface changes, with your bowling.

Balls change so quickly, as little as 3-6 games, that you will often need to refresh the surface, to insure the ball reacts properly. So it's best that it be something you can do quickly and easily.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

daves123

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Re: Question on polish
« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2017, 09:22:28 AM »
Yes, it does matter. (I was typing while Aloarjr810 was responding)

First, I'd find out what surface grit the factory used before the "polish" and then which polish or compound was used.  All polishes are not the same.  Some have more "slip agents" than others to create extra length before hooking, and some have tiny abrasives, too.   

Compounds have more abrasives, typically, and when used give the appearance of polish, but help the ball pick up the lane slightly earlier depending on how they are applied, and the underlying surface grit.

If you can tell us which ball you're referring to there are guys here who can look that up on the website of the particular ball.
the ball I have in need of polish is the honey badger.

Aloarjr810

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Re: Question on polish
« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2017, 09:35:31 AM »
the ball I have in need of polish is the honey badger.

The Honey Badger uses the much maligned 1500 polished surface (a lot of players don't like it, for numerous reasons.)

This is the 900 Global surface guide, But it doesn't really tell you exactly what they used:
https://www.900global.com/newglobalshop/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Factory-finish-guidelines.pdf

The Storm steps which are pretty much the general guide for this surface are:
1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad  – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad  – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad  – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad  – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm®Step Two™– Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.
« Last Edit: December 23, 2017, 09:48:39 AM by Aloarjr810 »
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daves123

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Re: Question on polish
« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2017, 12:36:57 PM »
I do have some 3M finesse-it polish. what do you think? yes or no.
I'll be using a spinner to do the work.

itsallaboutme

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Re: Question on polish
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2017, 03:09:51 PM »
Finesse is a much finer polish than most ball polishes.  It's going to make the ball under react compared to the out of box reaction.

3m's perfect it rubbing compound is the closest non bowling product to storm's step 2 that I found.