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Author Topic: Drilling for Sport Shot  (Read 3859 times)

atr3yu

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Drilling for Sport Shot
« on: April 02, 2006, 02:26:28 PM »
I've currently got a Storm Hot Rod Hybrid, and Storm Pyro that I'm looking to punch up for an upcoming sport shot tournament, and I'm looking for some recommendations on how to lay these out.  I'm a lefty with high revs, and medium ball speed (15.5-16.2 mph), I'm looking for something that would be a strong arc reaction.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
- atr3yu

 

dizzyfugu

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Re: Drilling for Sport Shot
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2006, 09:42:28 AM »
I'd suggest an early rolling layout, not too strong for a sport shot. You will not need hook, but consistency.

For a high tracker, I'd suggest pin under ring finger (about 4 1/2" from PAP), with the CG swung out a bit towards your PAP, say 60-75° from PAP. I would not go for a leverage position, even with a light particle load, this could become a problem with an ongoing tournament and changing conditions. With matching revs and speed, this should provide you with a nice, hard arc and playability over a longer period before having the need to switch to the Hybrid.

This one could be laid out out similarly, I'd even move the pin a bit closer to the PAP, placing it under the bridge (1/2" more distance from PAP). CG could be placed a bit stronger, set in your palm, and this layout should be good for late shifts and when the whole thing dries up.

But that's all a personal idea, better check out other opinions, too!
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charlest

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Re: Drilling for Sport Shot
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2006, 09:45:15 AM »
Many sport shots seem to want the bowler to use balls drilled to create very small backends for control. Whether you use a 6" pin to PAP or a 2" is up to you, your balls, your delivery/release and your driller.
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LuckyLefty

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Re: Drilling for Sport Shot
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2006, 10:04:49 AM »
I agree with dizzy for once!

Just was on one this weekend...balls that had pin under ring....
lower rg...slight kickout and a slightly inside val weighthole seem to really give one the necessary control of breakpoint one needs(often there is  a lot of slip in heads).

I also have had good luck on sport shots always with moderately low rg balls....this weekend the AMF VP2 with low rg and moderate flare potential(ie balls like scout reactives etc....are usually not good as they have too much lenght.

Often there is an out of bounds near 10 on most sport shots so having a ball that does not penetrate far down the lane and skid into the out of bounds is good.

Another ball that has killed these shots for me is a AMF Ti Hawk drilled verysimilarly with a deep medium sized weighthole on pap....Plenty of midlane...smooth backend....surface 1000 no polish....that's the ticket.

REgards,

Luckylefty  
PS you often know a ball that you are going to use on a sport shot is going to be good...because it often does not have enough flip on league to do anything but leave flat corner pins...as soon as you get on sport shots however the strong midlane and softer backend start wipin em off the spot!
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chitown

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Re: Drilling for Sport Shot
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2006, 12:40:13 AM »
quote:
Many sport shots seem to want the bowler to use balls drilled to create very small backends for control. Whether you use a 6" pin to PAP or a 2" is up to you, your balls, your delivery/release and your driller.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
(That includes me too, at times! )




Charlest is dead on accurate!  I have used a pearl reactive Doom with the pin drilled above 5.5" from pap and cg kicked right to 1oz an no balance hole and had great success on tough patterns.  

The standard from what I have read and heard is find balls that arc and drill them for control.  I don't find that to always be the best route.  Like I said my Doom drilled for length and back end has worked great for me on tough shots.

Charlest is right it depends on many factors.  Take a look at PBA players.  They bowl on tough patterns and use anywhere from weak layouts to strong ones.  It depends on many factors.

I would choose a layout that your comfortable with.  One that you have had a lot of success with and go from there.  If you need more control you can always adjust the cover to tame the back end a bit.

Edited on 4/6/2006 0:39 AM

Edited on 4/6/2006 0:39 AM