Post by: mr300ny on December 18, 2011, 07:28:19 AM
High Game: 300 (3x) (11/3/07, 7/6/11, 8/23/11)
High Series: 798 (2/9/08)
Stony Brook University Bowling
Cranking the crap outta balls since birth.
Post by: Juggernaut on December 18, 2011, 03:33:17 PM
It only cleans the surface dirt and grime away.
Rubbing alcohol does not deep clean, nor does it contain anything that will allow it to remove excess dirt and oil from very deep in the pores on the ball.
If all you want to do is clean the surface, remove superficial dirt, grease, oil, and belt marks, its fine. Otherwise, you need more than just the alcohol.
_______________________________________________________________________
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."
Albert Einstein
_______________________________________________________________________
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."
Albert Einstein
_______________________________________________________________________
Edited by Juggernaut on 12/18/2011 at 4:34 PM
Post by: Brickguy221 on December 18, 2011, 04:22:21 PM
+1 ....
**********************************************************************
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Brick
Post by: mr300ny on December 18, 2011, 06:01:27 PM
High Game: 300 (3x) (11/3/07, 7/6/11, 8/23/11)
High Series: 798 (2/9/08)
Stony Brook University Bowling
Cranking the crap outta balls since birth.
Post by: ericfox4 on December 18, 2011, 06:02:27 PM
Post by: mainzer on December 18, 2011, 06:39:27 PM
just as well as powerhouse or hot water or blow torches or ovens. I have not had a ball
die on me in years, I have very little if any loss of reaction using only rubbing
alcohol.
I don't really believe in the whole deep clean thing, how can one liquid deep clean a
bowling ball better than another. I don't know if their is any scientific proof of it
does anyone have any?
IMO until my stuff starts dying I will not stop using rubbing alcohol.
MainzerPower
Post by: Brickguy221 on December 18, 2011, 09:50:22 PM
Alcohol is good for removing dirt and black marks on balls, but it doesn't remove lane oil or oil of any kind for that matter. It appears that you are satisified with the results you get with alcohol, so nothing wrong with your being happy with it.
**********************************************************************
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Brick
Post by: ithinkican on December 19, 2011, 12:33:20 AM
I am not positive but i think alcohol is illegal in any form of usbc competition. so keep it on the down low if you use it. it is cheaper to use grease lightning and water 50/50. that is what i use to clean the surface of my bowling balls.
Post by: mainzer on December 19, 2011, 07:14:02 AM
proof of this?
MainzerPower
Post by: Aloarjr810 on December 19, 2011, 07:25:45 AM
Alcohol is legall to use anytime in USBC competition, unless a tournament or league rule says you cant.
Aloarjr810
----------
Click For My Grip
Post by: Aloarjr810 on December 19, 2011, 07:43:48 AM
Isopropyl alcohol dissolves a wide range of non-polar compounds. It also evaporates quickly and is relatively non-toxic, compared to alternative solvents. Thus it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils.
Aloarjr810
----------
Click For My Grip
Post by: racincowboy3 on December 19, 2011, 09:08:23 AM
Post by: charlest on December 19, 2011, 02:23:48 PM
I won't back down.
There's alcohol and there's alcohol
Household alcohol, both 70% and 91% isopropyl alcohol will break down skin oils and maybe some other simpler, less complex oils, but it will not break down lane oil. Isopropyl alcohol or isopropanol is only 2 carbon more complex, than the simplest alcohol, methyl alcohol or 2 carbon more than ethanol, ethyl alcohol, used for drinking and in gasoline. All 3 are still very simple alcohols.
LaneMasters cleaner is also an alcohol, and industrial strength, multi-carbon alcohol. Those who have used it or even smelled it know how strong it is. It DOES breakdown lane oil. Of that there is also no doubt.
So, yes, alcohol can clean a bowling ball thoroughly. It just depends on which alcohol you are using.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: mainzer on December 19, 2011, 02:42:15 PM
Well if your lane oil is so complex why isn't my gear dying?
I know for a fact that Lanemasters stuff packs a punch but do you really need all of that?
Can you prove rubbing alcohol doesn't break down lane oil?
MainzerPower
Post by: jls on December 19, 2011, 03:03:51 PM
Sir, try this... clean you ball your way... Then take a clean white towel and use a good strong
ball cleaner and re do your ball...If the towel turns black, then you will see that alcohol is not
pulling the oil from your ball.. but simply just cleaning the cover...
Now as for the reason your balls are dying...what kind of lane condition are you on???
jls
Post by: charlest on December 19, 2011, 03:49:14 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: mainzer on December 19, 2011, 04:06:22 PM
I use the ball cleaner second in the experiment you mentioned.
Quite frankly I would like to see proof that ball cleaner can somehow magically
clean deeper into a ball than rubbing alcohol, when both are liquids. Are u telling
me that one liquid can go through a solid object better than another?
MainzerPower
Post by: mainzer on December 19, 2011, 04:23:25 PM
Answers for you Charlest
1. No it is not
2.I bowl on PBA Patterns Monday nights so I have oil their, and Moderatly heavy THS on Thursdays
3. I change balls when it is necssary idk How often do you change balls??
4. I wear black shirts but they probably have some oil on them. So??
5. I watch my stuff closely to make sure it still has its hooking potential.
6. Yeah charlest I check with ruler after each shot to see how much oil is on the ball.
7. I play deeper lines
4 million reasons why I would not see it?? I think I know my gear better than you know my gear. My stuff hasn't lost much if any reaction ever. Once again Charlest give me PROOF!! Scientific PROOF that a ball cleaner does more that Alcohol you have not done that yet, you have just given me reasons.
MainzerPower
Post by: Brickguy221 on December 19, 2011, 05:08:01 PM
It is not a matter of one liquid going thru a solid object better than another, it is a matter of one liquid dissipating (disolving) the oil better than another.
**********************************************************************
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Brick
Post by: mainzer on December 19, 2011, 05:23:58 PM
Another how can one "deep clean" better?
MainzerPower
Post by: scotts33 on December 19, 2011, 05:53:35 PM
If you were closer to me I'd take a few of your balls cleaned with alcohol and take either C&D, LM cleaner or Hook-IT with a white paper towel I would think we would see dirt/grime on the equipment that you only use alcohol on.
If you know of anyone with these products try an application after you have used alcohol and see what happens use a clean white paper towel. That is about as scientific one can get. Seeing is believing. ie. I use Remedy RX which is an legal based cleaner approved by USBC during competition after I am done I use Hook-IT or LM cleaner and always remove dirt and grime that is visible on a white paper towel using these products after using Remedy RX.
The other issue if these three products mentioned above C&D, Hook-IT and LM cleaner are ONLY approved for prior to or after competition one would question why ONLY prior to or after why not during like alcohol. Just that question should make for an eye opener in that their chemical make-up is not allowed during competition for a reason.
"Well if neither can go through a bowling ball better than
Another how can one "deep clean" better?"
Scott
Edited by scotts33 on 12/19/2011 at 6:54 PM
Post by: charlest on December 19, 2011, 06:12:30 PM
Mainzer,
In addition to what Scott said,
It's not a matter of your knowing your equipment better than I do. It's a matter of many things affecting this situation,
AND
why do you need proof when your judgment comes from what you're seeing in your balls.
Is your vision and observance of what happens different than mine?
My judgment comes from my not seeing alcohol make any change in oil laying on bowling balls and not removing it. If oil is one of the problems, and from many sources, it is, why bother even using alcohol when it does nothing except remove some types of dirt. Heck, water would do as much.
Clean your balls with water and tell me how much of a change in their behavior you see. I bet you also see nothing.
Proof?
I am not interested in proving you wrong or me right. I am interested in one thing: helping.
I know alcohol will not remove oil from the surface of a ball. I'd like you to use as inexpensive a liquid or method as possible that will enable you to live with yourself and not consider yourself cheated for spending too much money on the unnecessaary. Pick any one that will actually remove lane oil from the surface of a bowling ball. household alcohol by itself will never do that.
Merry Christmas!
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Edited by charlest on 12/19/2011 at 7:15 PM
Edited by charlest on 12/19/2011 at 7:52 PM
Post by: jrs813 on December 20, 2011, 06:27:22 AM
holding a bottle of storm reacta clean. CAUTION contains denatured ETHYL ALCOHOL.
Post by: on December 20, 2011, 08:24:52 AM
contains DENATURED ethyl alcohol... FIXED!Not too long ago this was illegal for use by U.S.B.C. (straight out of the bottle or can - Storm dilutes it with other ingredients)Not sure if it still is, or if they have relaxed their stance on it. The point is that it's not the same as the alcohol used in this discussion.
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Pro Shop Staff
Brunswick Pro Shop Staff
The opinions expressed are solely those of the writer and not of Brunswick Corporation.
Edited by notclay on 12/20/2011 at 9:29 AM
Post by: mainzer on December 20, 2011, 09:18:49 AM
from the surface of the bowling ball. How can it take dirt off and not pull oil
off? That statment makes no sense on your part. I am living with myself just fine
using rubbing alcohol sir.
You must be a really good bowler if you need to get every drop of oil off
your gear between uses, much better than me. But may I ask how you can prove
Rubbing alcohol doesn't get oil off the surface of the ball? I understand the a ball cleaner
may work better of that I will not argue.
I see that you seem to think your judgment is somehow better than mine, I would stop
if you had proof that alcohol does nothing but all you have is your judgment. A previous
poster stated the rubbing alcohol dissolves oil and that he looked it up on
google but yet you know better?
MainzerPower
Post by: Good Times Good Times on December 20, 2011, 09:33:05 AM
First, I have no horse in this race. That being said.......
Mainzer, given the concession you made that a ball cleaner will work better, if you believe that alcohol would remove oil and dirt from the surface of a ball, and that a ball cleaner would do the same (not offering a deep clean), how is it a ball cleaner would "work better"? What would the specific benefit be of a ball cleaner OVER alcohol, in you opinion?
If alcohol offers cleaning dirt and oil from the SURFACE, and a ball cleaner offers cleaning dirt and oil from the SURFACE, how will a ball cleaner work better?
I'd suppose the suggestion of cleaning with alcohol THEN cleaning with a ball cleaner and examining a WHITE towel would solve this?
GetOffMe10Pin
"Sometimes people call me an idealist. Well that is the way I know I am an American."
- Woodrow Wilson
- Woodrow Wilson
Post by: scotts33 on December 20, 2011, 09:48:41 AM
I'll get back into this per Good Times post.
Here's the real question. The difference being that there two different types of ball cleaners those that are approved for use during and those that are NOT approved for use during ONLY to be used before or after.
The ball cleaners that are approved for use during are basically all alcohol based. So, use your alcohol based cleaner during.
My statement is after a league I maintain that if you take Hook-IT, LM cleaner or C&D you will remove more than you can with just alcohol. IF someone in your area has any 3 of these products try it with a white paper towel and see if you can remove more. I'd bet that you will. That's the difference IMO.
Someone answer me this? Why are there approved for use cleaners and approved ONLY prior to or after? The reason would be obvious to me the prior to and after are stronger products which will remove more. They may also take off lane shine which allow more traction. Some may contain abrasives which I understand would allow more surface but most are non-alcohol based and allow for a more deep cleaning.
Scott
Post by: Strapper_Squared on December 20, 2011, 12:48:34 PM
What's this mean for ball cleaners? Alcohol wouldn't be my first choice as a ball cleaner to remove lane oil.
S^2
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Post by: Steven on December 20, 2011, 01:03:28 PM
Strapper, nice explanation. It mirrors what we see in real life.
I'd never use Rubbing alcohol to clean grease off my kitchen counter. I don't think that would be the first choice of many. It makes no more sense as the first choice for cleaning a bowling ball.
Post by: mainzer on December 20, 2011, 03:11:29 PM
I work in Surgery I am a Sterile Processing Tech, I specialize in Processing Inst Before and after Strilization, as another part of my job is to help clean ORs after surgery
We use alot of Betadyne prep. When it is spilt onto the floor it will become a stain that no cleaning solvent will ever get off the floor, however pour a little Rubbing Alcohol on it and in about 10 seconds the Betadyne is off the floor
works like a charm, seeing that is one thing that has kept me using rubbing Alcohol,
very powerful cleaner, but do you NEED it to be that powerful? Is is a marketing ploy
to make more money? Just something cooked up? Or is their something behind it?
Strapper Alcohol will dissolve oil no question, Also it will evaporate quickly which why we use it alot in ORs, It is also strong enough to strip a the surface coat off a floor, I am sure it will do something for lane oil.
MainzerPower
Edited by mainzer on 12/20/2011 at 4:26 PM
Post by: charlest on December 20, 2011, 03:19:12 PM
Mainzer,
You 're making this personal. I will not get into personal attacks and defense on the internet.
It is not and never has been about whose judgment is better. And when did bowling skill ever enter this discussion? What does that have to do with anything we tried to discuss? (Don't answer. That is just a rhetorical question.)
You want to use alcohol. Fine, use it. No skin off my nose.
I tried to help. That's all. No more, no less. You don't want it. Fine. End of story.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: mainzer on December 20, 2011, 03:37:26 PM
My apologies charlest.
MainzerPower
Post by: ToiletLogCore on December 20, 2011, 03:59:01 PM
All you people are clear experts on all these cleaners, yet no one can seem to answer the simplest question asked in this thread?
The reason such cleaners as Hook-it and C&D are approved for ONLY prior or after competition is because these are basically liquid sandpaper, abrasives. Therefore, it would contradict the other rule of altering the bowling surface during competition.
So to clear another question up in this thread, these products end up with dirt and what not on a white paper towel because they are scuffing the ball as well as cleaning it. To me that is not a "deeper" clean, that is more keeping a freshly scuffed surface.
Hope this simple information can help in this cat fight.
You've just been handed a little TLC
Post by: mainzer on December 20, 2011, 04:14:40 PM
+1
MainzerPower
Post by: Sunshine n Lollipops on December 20, 2011, 10:34:38 PM
Man, this topic comes up every couple of years. It's a good topic but Toilet hit the nail squarely in his reply. I did a study of all major cleaners a while back for this very topic. Any cleaner that is going to handle oil needs three components.
First is a medium to deliver the cleaners. Water is the most used ingredient for that.
Next, as mentioned before are surfactants. A surfactant or surface active agent is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from surfaces such as the human skin, textiles, and other solids.
In more technical terms:
In more technical terms:
- they enable the cleaning solution to fully wet the surface being cleaned so that dirt can be readily loosened and removed.
- they clean greasy, oily, particulate-, protein-, and carbohydrate-based stains.
- they are instrumental in removing dirt and in keeping them emulsified, suspended, and dispersed so they don't settle back onto the surface being cleaned.
Third, you need a solvent. Isopropyl Alchohol does nicely in this regard. It also evaporates easily leaving no residue.
Most commercial cleaners are a mix of water, citric acid, and alchol. This is why a solution of 33% water (delivery system), 33% Simple Green Concentrate (surfactant) , and 33% 91% or higher Isopropyl Alcohol (solvent) is so effective. Water is not only the delivery system but is a universal solvent, Simple Green is a superior surfactant (Dawn dish soap is another one) and the alcohol is a solvent that evaporates and leaves no residue on the ball. Doesn't come in a fancy bottle, doesn't cost an arm and a leg, and isn't mixed in a bottling plant. Just flat out works. It's your ball and your money so it most definitely is your choice.
Don't believe in the Uzi, it just went off in my hand. I, I believe in love.
Post by: scotts33 on December 20, 2011, 10:41:07 PM
Says who...you? Have you ever used any of these before/after? C&D, Hook IT or LM cleaner?
IF you have you can see they have NO abrasive structure in their make-up.
Sheesh!
Scott
Post by: Sunshine n Lollipops on December 20, 2011, 10:50:33 PM
In addition, you don't really need a cleaner at all. 90 minutes in the dishwasher will remove as much oil as a Revivor. And yes, my pro shop operator and I have done the experiment where I have given him a ball fresh from the dishwasher and we have put it in the Revivor and were not able to draw any more oil out of the ball. Like I said; your ball, your money, your choice.
Don't believe in the Uzi, it just went off in my hand. I, I believe in love.
Post by: charlest on December 21, 2011, 09:04:29 AM
I had to answer this one.
Is Acetone also on the list of not approved substances because it has abrasives it?
No!
Clean and Dull and Hook-It have as many abrasives in it as acetone does.
One has only to look at and feel these 2 liquids to know that. Since you have obviously never done this, how can you make such a comment?
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: ToiletLogCore on December 21, 2011, 09:49:07 AM
Um, yes Scotts, I have used these products with exception to the LM Cleaner, which is why I made statements in response to this thread as opposed to giving suggestions on why some are approved and some aren't. Try to keep up.
Charlest, this following statement includes you also, seeing as how you still have questions.
Clean & Dull dulls the ball. How can just a simple liquid dull a ball? It can't. Cleaners don't dull a ball they clean. So therefore, in order to have Clean AND DULL there has to be something added that will alter the surface.
Same goes for hook-it. Any description of this products clearly states "increases 'tac.'"
I'm going to stop here, because if you still don't get it then I'm just wasting my energy typing anyways.
You've just been handed a little TLC
Post by: scotts33 on December 21, 2011, 10:12:37 AM
TLC,
So, you are saying that all three that I listed C&D, LM cleaner and Hook-IT have abrasives?
You do realize that ball cover stock can be changed by a chemical reaction without the use of abrasives? Who needs to keep up?
Scott
Post by: ToiletLogCore on December 21, 2011, 10:47:51 AM
Exactly the response I expected. So what you are now saying is being you can't see or feel them, there are no abrasives additives in any products. Feel the surface of your ball, do you feel the points of the roughness of the ball when it's scuffed, or does it still feel "smooth?" I'm talking something at 500 or 1000, not 80 grit like I'm sure you'd respond with. Do you feel the scrubbing agents in certain soaps and dishwashing liquids (i.e. A lot of soaps and household cleaners use orange peels as a scrubbing agent)? Guess what, technology allows these to be ground up fine enough so they aren't sensed by human touch yet still have a "grit" to they on the surface they are being used on.
Enough of that though, even though I know you will continue to dwell on that and completely miss the whole point of my original statement.
The actual point is that these products ALTER the surface, which is why they aren't approved for use during competition.
And to answer your other question, I have done everything talked about that you are questioning me on. I've worked in a pro shop for many years, with a majority of my first year resurfacing and cleaning bowling balls to gain the experience of what most products do and the different between them. So yes, I do know a bit about what I'm talking about.
And to Charlest, sorry I actually worry more about throwing the ball well than every last detail of the grit and polish and finishing surface of my bowling balls.
Awaiting your responses dwelling on the contents of the products and not the main point that no matter what, they ALTER the surface and this is the reason they aren't approved for use during competition, to which I will not bother replying.
You've just been handed a little TLC
Post by: scotts33 on December 21, 2011, 10:54:11 AM
Scott
Post by: mainzer on December 21, 2011, 02:40:32 PM
Yes Acetone has abrasives in it, I don't know about LM Cleaner for sure I have not seen around here in awhile.
Maybe the reason why some of these high end covers are dying is because you guys are pouring abrassive chemicals on them. Just a idea.
MainzerPower
Post by: spider 11 on October 19, 2012, 09:02:01 PM
I was told by a PBA member that alcohol CLOSES ball pores. He said to use anything that contains ethylene. Possibly even Windex.
Post by: tdub36tjt on October 19, 2012, 09:53:47 PM
Also, I saw somewhere a chemist who said that hook it us the only cleaner he knew of that had a chemical in it that he knew of that could dissolve lane oil. Whether that is true or not I can't say....
Post by: Tex on October 19, 2012, 10:48:56 PM
In the Urethane days this was about all we ever used. All these fancy cleaners had not been invented yet, so about all we had. I know of one product that is nothing more than Simple Green and rubbing alcohol mix and is sold as a reactive ball cleaner. He has sold tons of this stuff and bowlers loved it.
On Acetone, ever heard of the soakers. Back in the old days they would soak their plastic balls in Acetone to soften the surface. This is where the hardness rules came into the ABC rules to stop this practice. It basically melted the surface of the ball to alter the hardness. Also why Acetone was outlawed.
Post by: Elimeno Pee on October 20, 2012, 07:42:24 AM
Post by: charlest on October 20, 2012, 07:48:50 AM
On Acetone, ever heard of the soakers. Back in the old days they would soak their plastic balls in Acetone to soften the surface. This is where the hardness rules came into the ABC rules to stop this practice. It basically melted the surface of the ball to alter the hardness. Also why Acetone was outlawed.
They didn't use Acetone. They used MEK: Methyl Ethyl Ketone.
See the reference in this article: http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1087795/index.htm (http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1087795/index.htm)
Post by: Tex on October 20, 2012, 08:16:02 AM
Post by: charlest on October 20, 2012, 11:19:28 AM
I stand corrected. I remember that once you said it. I believe the affect of softening the cover was why ABC outlawed it though.
Yes, very true.
As a side note: acetone doesn't so much soften materials in the plastics family (polyester, urethane and resin, all our coverstock material, all belong to the plastics family, as far as I know. Acetone is a very simple chemical and is extremely reactive, but being simple it takes quite a bit to interact with plastics, a much more complex chemical and molecule. So if you put a dab of acetone on cloth to remove something like spilled over glue from the edge of an insert, it will do no harm to the ball's surface. You may see a slight smoothing out of the surface but even that is rare. If you sand a urethane insert, along a bevel, for instance, you can use a rag with a tiny damp spot of acetone to smooth out that rough area. I do mean, "damp" not soaked, and I mean tiny, like maybe a nickel or quarter sized area, 1/2" - 3/4" in diameter. Any more is a waste of money and can be dangerous. Remember acetone is highly flammable and not especially good for the human body.
Post by: raiderh20boy on October 20, 2012, 01:04:39 PM
Post by: smorgasson on March 10, 2014, 01:23:48 AM
Post by: JessN16 on March 10, 2014, 03:26:14 AM
1. A lot of these cleaners have abrasives mixed in. I've got about 20 different bottles here in the room with me, many of them already named in this thread. You can put some of these on your fingers, rub them together, and they feel like face cream. But others, you can rub them between your fingers and it feels sandy/chalky. You don't need a chemistry degree to tell you why. If you want to double-check this for accuracy, use the product on something that has no oil in it -- like the surface of your car. Many of these cleaners operate similarly to car wax; i.e., buff it out enough and you can shine painted metal with them.
2. Another way to check this: Get a bunch of rags, put various cleaners on them, then put them somewhere and let them dry out thoroughly. Like, 2 weeks. Then take the rags and shake them/pop them vigorously. You'll see dust fly out of some of the rags but not others. Know what that dust is? Yep, it's a sanding/polishing compound that was present in the original mixture.
3. The oil coming out of your bowling ball is actually EPA-regulated. I have been told, but do not know for sure, that it is mineral oil. Reason being, the oil gets everywhere, on your clothes and your hands, no matter how careful you are with it, so it has to be something very safe for human contact and also very easy to break down/remove. Figure out whether isopropyl alcohol will cut mineral oil and you'll have your answer as to whether it's a good cleaner.
4. As for how certain cleaners "draw out" more oil, there's really only two ways that can happen. One, the cleaner could have a surface-affecting compound in it, and rubbing this substance across the ball would actually cut into the sides of the pores somewhat and help release the oil. I suspect this is the science behind cleaners that are not approved for use during competition, as they would be modifying the surface of the ball itself, even if only by a minor amount. Two, a cleaner could chemically latch on to the oil molecules and pull them from the pores. If this is the case, it is certainly plausible for specific cleaners to be more adept at cleaning a ball than alcohol, which to my knowledge won't bind to mineral oil.
Jess
Post by: mainzer on March 10, 2014, 08:04:20 AM
On a side note we use Isopropyl Alcohol from to time to get the worst stains off Operating Room floors and it works very...it is so strong it strips the wax off the floors along with the stains
I don't know what this brings to the debate (I'm kind of lost as to what's being debated anymore, honestly), but here goes...
1. A lot of these cleaners have abrasives mixed in. I've got about 20 different bottles here in the room with me, many of them already named in this thread. You can put some of these on your fingers, rub them together, and they feel like face cream. But others, you can rub them between your fingers and it feels sandy/chalky. You don't need a chemistry degree to tell you why. If you want to double-check this for accuracy, use the product on something that has no oil in it -- like the surface of your car. Many of these cleaners operate similarly to car wax; i.e., buff it out enough and you can shine painted metal with them.
2. Another way to check this: Get a bunch of rags, put various cleaners on them, then put them somewhere and let them dry out thoroughly. Like, 2 weeks. Then take the rags and shake them/pop them vigorously. You'll see dust fly out of some of the rags but not others. Know what that dust is? Yep, it's a sanding/polishing compound that was present in the original mixture.
3. The oil coming out of your bowling ball is actually EPA-regulated. I have been told, but do not know for sure, that it is mineral oil. Reason being, the oil gets everywhere, on your clothes and your hands, no matter how careful you are with it, so it has to be something very safe for human contact and also very easy to break down/remove. Figure out whether isopropyl alcohol will cut mineral oil and you'll have your answer as to whether it's a good cleaner.
4. As for how certain cleaners "draw out" more oil, there's really only two ways that can happen. One, the cleaner could have a surface-affecting compound in it, and rubbing this substance across the ball would actually cut into the sides of the pores somewhat and help release the oil. I suspect this is the science behind cleaners that are not approved for use during competition, as they would be modifying the surface of the ball itself, even if only by a minor amount. Two, a cleaner could chemically latch on to the oil molecules and pull them from the pores. If this is the case, it is certainly plausible for specific cleaners to be more adept at cleaning a ball than alcohol, which to my knowledge won't bind to mineral oil.
Jess
Post by: slowmofo908 on March 10, 2014, 03:27:16 PM