win a ball from Bowling.com

Author Topic: Crown Factory Compound Application  (Read 18342 times)

JPbowling151

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 368
Crown Factory Compound Application
« on: February 23, 2017, 07:44:33 PM »
I managed to get a hold of a bottle of Brunswick Crown Factory Compound formerly Rough Buff and tried it out on my Vintage DZ. It took most of the small nicks and such on the cover stock but left the ball noticeably dull. Did I use too much pressure on the spinner or is this how it's supposed to look? I kinda expected the ball to look similar to the oob finish which looks a little shiny compared to my ball now. Any insight is greatlying appreciated!!
"Yeah...Well that's just like...your opinion, man." - The Dude

 

mechanic81

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 108
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2017, 08:24:21 PM »
I actually bought some of this stuff myself. How long did you apply the compound for? Because from my experience so far is the longer you apply it the more shine you will get.obviously the less you apply the duller it will be.and you don't have to use alot of pressure .

BallReviews-Removed0385

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 0
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2017, 02:08:12 AM »

I always use a little water, or at least a damp rag to do the "shine" finish.  I assume you are using a spinner.

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24523
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2017, 05:50:49 AM »
I managed to get a hold of a bottle of Brunswick Crown Factory Compound formerly Rough Buff and tried it out on my Vintage DZ. It took most of the small nicks and such on the cover stock but left the ball noticeably dull. Did I use too much pressure on the spinner or is this how it's supposed to look? I kinda expected the ball to look similar to the oob finish which looks a little shiny compared to my ball now. Any insight is greatly appreciated!!

The finish you get depends on both the starting grit on which you applied the compound AND the human factors involved (hand pressure, amount of compounds, time on the spinner and applicator, and to a smaller degree, the speed of the spinner).

When applied over a 500 grit base sanding, a quarter sized dollop of compound and a decent applicator (some time of fabric or foam pad), a 45 second rubbing per side should result in around a 3000 - 4000 grit dull finish.

When applied over a 1500 grit base sanding, an average application of RB/RC should come close to a light to medium polished "appearance".

If your DZ was at its stock surface (polished), then you either used too much compound (which may have been necessary if you wanted to remove a lot of scratches) or you used too little. If you removed a lot of scratches, then you probably used a good amount of compound (it is strongly abrasive, but it would probably have been safer and more efficient to have used abrasive pads of sandpaper to remove scratches).

So I would assume that right now you have a nice 3000/4000 grit type of surface. I would apply a light application of true polish to get back your "polished appearance".

RB or Royal Compound is not true stand alone polish; that is why I term it a compound. It is a very strong abrasive, which CAN result in a polished finish, if you start with a high enough base grit level.

Remember polish is really just a micro-fine abrasive suspended in a liquid. RB/RC is or has a much larger, rougher abrasive which breaks down into smaller pieces with use and hand pressure, as near as I can tell from using it. It is mean to be very aggressive.

Hope this helps.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

JPbowling151

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 368
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2017, 05:28:40 PM »
I managed to get a hold of a bottle of Brunswick Crown Factory Compound formerly Rough Buff and tried it out on my Vintage DZ. It took most of the small nicks and such on the cover stock but left the ball noticeably dull. Did I use too much pressure on the spinner or is this how it's supposed to look? I kinda expected the ball to look similar to the oob finish which looks a little shiny compared to my ball now. Any insight is greatly appreciated!!

The finish you get depends on both the starting grit on which you applied the compound AND the human factors involved (hand pressure, amount of compounds, time on the spinner and applicator, and to a smaller degree, the speed of the spinner).

When applied over a 500 grit base sanding, a quarter sized dollop of compound and a decent applicator (some time of fabric or foam pad), a 45 second rubbing per side should result in around a 3000 - 4000 grit dull finish.

When applied over a 1500 grit base sanding, an average application of RB/RC should come close to a light to medium polished "appearance".

If your DZ was at its stock surface (polished), then you either used too much compound (which may have been necessary if you wanted to remove a lot of scratches) or you used too little. If you removed a lot of scratches, then you probably used a good amount of compound (it is strongly abrasive, but it would probably have been safer and more efficient to have used abrasive pads of sandpaper to remove scratches).

So I would assume that right now you have a nice 3000/4000 grit type of surface. I would apply a light application of true polish to get back your "polished appearance".

RB or Royal Compound is not true stand alone polish; that is why I term it a compound. It is a very strong abrasive, which CAN result in a polished finish, if you start with a high enough base grit level.

Remember polish is really just a micro-fine abrasive suspended in a liquid. RB/RC is or has a much larger, rougher abrasive which breaks down into smaller pieces with use and hand pressure, as near as I can tell from using it. It is mean to be very aggressive.

Hope this helps.

Thank you charlest, I'd have to say I used a little more than a dollop of compound and used a decent amount of pressure on the ball. I would say the ball has a sheen 3000ish looking finish now with what looks like faint sanding lines, basically the ball looks like I took an abralon pad to it and scuffed the surface a bit. The ball has about half a season on it so I figured it needed a surface touch up. I'll be more aware next time I use RB on my DZ. I'll try a little light 1500 polish on the ball to get some of the shine back.

I looked at the bottle and it mentioned among it's listed ingredients as pumice, silica, and ethanol. I'm guessing pumice and silica are this compound's main abrasives, and the ethanol as a solvent cleaner.
"Yeah...Well that's just like...your opinion, man." - The Dude

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24523
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2017, 07:49:45 PM »

Thank you charlest, I'd have to say I used a little more than a dollop of compound and used a decent amount of pressure on the ball. I would say the ball has a sheen 3000ish looking finish now with what looks like faint sanding lines, basically the ball looks like I took an abralon pad to it and scuffed the surface a bit. The ball has about half a season on it so I figured it needed a surface touch up. I'll be more aware next time I use RB on my DZ. I'll try a little light 1500 polish on the ball to get some of the shine back.

I looked at the bottle and it mentioned among it's listed ingredients as pumice, silica, and ethanol. I'm guessing pumice and silica are this compound's main abrasives, and the ethanol as a solvent cleaner.

You're welcome.
Interesting about the contents. My bottles of Rough Buff and Royal Compound (precursors to Crown compound) do not indicate the contents.

Be careful of the dried compound. Silica and pumice are not good for the lungs when inhaled. Clean with wet towels or a generic ball cleaner.
"Silicosis ... is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in the form of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs. There is no cure for silicosis."
Lately it seems like everything we can breathe in is a danger to life and limb.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Aloarjr810

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2149
  • Alley Katz Strike!
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2017, 08:03:10 PM »
Brunswick Crown Factory Compound Ingredients:
Amorphous Silica CAS Number: 0007631-­86-­9
Pumice CAS Number: 0001332-­09-­8
Kaolin CAS Number: 0001332-­58-­7
Mineral oil CAS Number: 0008042-­47-­5
Mixture Of Surfactants CAS Number: Proprietary
Dimethylsiloxane CAS Number: 0063148-­62-­9
Ethanol CAS Number: 0000064-­17-­5

Aloarjr810
----------
Click For My Grip

JPbowling151

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 368
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2017, 09:45:48 PM »

Thank you charlest, I'd have to say I used a little more than a dollop of compound and used a decent amount of pressure on the ball. I would say the ball has a sheen 3000ish looking finish now with what looks like faint sanding lines, basically the ball looks like I took an abralon pad to it and scuffed the surface a bit. The ball has about half a season on it so I figured it needed a surface touch up. I'll be more aware next time I use RB on my DZ. I'll try a little light 1500 polish on the ball to get some of the shine back.

I looked at the bottle and it mentioned among it's listed ingredients as pumice, silica, and ethanol. I'm guessing pumice and silica are this compound's main abrasives, and the ethanol as a solvent cleaner.

You're welcome.
Interesting about the contents. My bottles of Rough Buff and Royal Compound (precursors to Crown compound) do not indicate the contents.

Be careful of the dried compound. Silica and pumice are not good for the lungs when inhaled. Clean with wet towels or a generic ball cleaner.
"Silicosis ... is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in the form of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs. There is no cure for silicosis."
Lately it seems like everything we can breathe in is a danger to life and limb.

Good to know. I made sure to wipe down my ball with alcohol and a paper towel after taking it off the spinner, maybe I'll just have my PSO apply it next time to be on the safe side. lol I only plan on using it every 60 gms or so for a refresh so I should be ok.

Amazing the things one finds in everyday bowling products are shocking these days. Maybe the bottle should mention one should wear a dust mask when applying for safety.
"Yeah...Well that's just like...your opinion, man." - The Dude

BallReviews-Removed0385

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 0
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2017, 11:13:59 AM »
Don't breathe anything except air if you can help it.  I wonder how many guys who have drilled balls for many years will develop lung issues from flying dust particles.
 
We always have a vacuum trying to pull the dust away when drilling or sanding but ya never know.  That's just another good reason to use water when on the spinner, too, even if it's just a spray bottle... And by all means don't read the labels of the food you eat...


« Last Edit: February 25, 2017, 11:35:16 AM by notclay »

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24523
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2017, 12:46:43 PM »

. And by all means don't read the labels of the food you eat...


Hysterical but true. I do about 90% of family grocery shopping and every time I stop to read a label, I almost always put it back on the shelf. Very depressing all the crap they have put in "food" over the years that is turning out to be long term poisons. Yet the FDA still allows it.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

JPbowling151

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 368
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2017, 01:42:49 PM »

. And by all means don't read the labels of the food you eat...


Hysterical but true. I do about 90% of family grocery shopping and every time I stop to read a label, I almost always put it back on the shelf. Very depressing all the crap they have put in "food" over the years that is turning out to be long term poisons. Yet the FDA still allows it.

Triclosan comes to mind. It's banned from soap but still used in toothpaste, detergents and such. Don't get me started on GMO's...on the bright side if Keith Richards can be alive this long, I think there's hope for us all! lol
"Yeah...Well that's just like...your opinion, man." - The Dude

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24523
Re: Crown Factory Compound Application
« Reply #11 on: February 25, 2017, 07:02:27 PM »

. And by all means don't read the labels of the food you eat...


Hysterical but true. I do about 90% of family grocery shopping and every time I stop to read a label, I almost always put it back on the shelf. Very depressing all the crap they have put in "food" over the years that is turning out to be long term poisons. Yet the FDA still allows it.

Triclosan comes to mind. It's banned from soap but still used in toothpaste, detergents and such. Don't get me started on GMO's...on the bright side if Keith Richards can be alive this long, I think there's hope for us all! lol

I was referring to normal food "poisons", like high fructose corn syrup, FD&C Red #3, FD&C Blue #1, Potassium sorbate, sodium nitrite, and propylene glycol alginate.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."