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Author Topic: Drilling Options (Read 659 times)

uwecbowler

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Drilling Options
on: December 15, 2017, 11:57:14 AM
Just curios how everyone goes about laying out an arsenal. Do you have one standard layout you put on all your equipment or is everything drilled differently? Do you have a "pin up" favorite and a "pin down" favorite that you mix  and match with equipment depending on the balls natural characteristics? Or is everything drilled differently, again based on the ball characteristics?

HackJandy

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #1 on: December 15, 2017, 11:58:50 AM
Very style dependent.  I am very speed dominant and rev challenged so these days its 65x4"x30 with a double thumb on everything but my dry balls which I usually go a more standard 4x4x2 (pin up to get through the heads, though my Path Rising actually drilled out the pin with my ring finger hole).  Before I paid attention to layouts tended to tell driller pin down for my solids and hybrids and pin up for pearls.
Last Edit: December 15, 2017, 12:05:10 PM by HackJandy
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uwecbowler

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #2 on: December 15, 2017, 12:04:01 PM
I guess I'm not really looking for specific lay out numbers because I know lay outs work differently for each bowler. I was wondering how everyone diversifies their arsenal.

Different cores and covers with the same layout?

Same balls with different layout?

Different cores and covers with the different layouts?

Impending Doom

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #3 on: December 15, 2017, 12:07:20 PM
For the majority of my stuff, it's either 50*5*65 (or just 5*65 no hole) or 60*5*40ish (or 5*40ish, no hole) I'll throw a red herring in there every now and then and do a 50*4*20 for a different shape, but it needs to be the right ball.
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HackJandy

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #4 on: December 15, 2017, 12:10:23 PM
I diversify by buying a shit load of balls but that is more a character flaw lol.  Seriously I recommend your first four balls should be a plastic or urethane drilled label in palm for little flare for spares and bone dry lanes.  A weak pearl ball drilled pin upish for the burn and dry lanes.  A hybrid benchmark ball for medium house shot (hint hint Hy-Road) drilled either way depending on your style and finally a strong solid reactive ball drilled pin down that can handle medium heavy to heavy oil.  Of course style may change these recommendations but its a good starting point for most bowlers imo.  Many people use a middle of the road solid for their benchmark and that is fine as well.  The 5th ball should be a strong perhaps asymmetric pearl pin up for late transition so you can move way left and still get carry.
Last Edit: December 15, 2017, 04:16:35 PM by HackJandy
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LookingForALeftyWall

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #5 on: December 15, 2017, 12:24:42 PM
For the most part I have a favorite layout for symmetrical balls (xx x 4 x 30 with a p3ish hole) and and a favorite asymmetrical layout (55 x 3.5 x 30 with a p2 hole).  I will deviate from them from time to time but have found they work for most of my equipment.  None the equipment that I have drilled with these layouts have been total duds.

I have found that pin down balls (>VAL angles) are not my bag.  Nor are balls drilled with a motion hole.  I have had 2 balls that had a double thumb layout - one of them was an absolute beast and one of my favorite balls of all time and the other was one of the biggest duds of all time. 

mrwizerd

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #6 on: December 15, 2017, 12:45:22 PM
I don't stick to one particular layout.  When deciding a layout, I look for potential overlap with my other pieces and try and avoid it, unless I am replacing a piece.  For example, I put the same layout on my Phaze 2 as my Marvel-S because it was its replacement.  Another example would be with my Code Red & Black.  I consulted with my PSO about what layout to put on my Code Red as to not overlap with the current layout on my Code Black.

AlonzoHarris

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #7 on: December 15, 2017, 01:01:20 PM
Drilling layout wise - I try to keep pretty standard now that I've found a few I like. 60x5"x(35 or 40) on Syms and 50x4.25"x30 on Asyms.

Arsenal building wise - I try to think it over top to bottom and vise versa. I use a few criteria. Desired shape and oil handling ability, then a mix of covers and core strength. For a 6 ball bag, not counting spare ball, I approach it like this.

TOP
-Asym
-Solid Sym (Low RG - High Diff)
-Hybrid or Pearl Sym (Low RG - High Diff)
-Hybrid or Pearl Sym (Low/Med RG - Med/High Diff)
-Pearl Sym (Med/High RG - Med Diff)
-Any weak cover Sym (Med/High RG - Low/Med Diff)
Bottom
Last Edit: December 15, 2017, 01:06:30 PM by AlonzoHarris
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Impending Doom

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #8 on: December 15, 2017, 01:55:07 PM
You must remember that surface is key. My night hawk and x are drilled the same, and my X is 2500 grit, and the nh is 4000 with polish. Same basic ball with same layout, and there is enough separation to have both, for me. The nh bounces a bit harder off the spot than the X.

Now when the DCT pearl comes out, I'm going to put that on top and put my On at 2000, and have the same layout. Then ball down to a Covert with the pin down, soni don't get the ball jackknifing off the friction.
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HackJandy

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #9 on: December 15, 2017, 02:56:52 PM
You must remember that surface is key. My night hawk and x are drilled the same, and my X is 2500 grit, and the nh is 4000 with polish. Same basic ball with same layout, and there is enough separation to have both, for me. The nh bounces a bit harder off the spot than the X.

Now when the DCT pearl comes out, I'm going to put that on top and put my On at 2000, and have the same layout. Then ball down to a Covert with the pin down, soni don't get the ball jackknifing off the friction.

+1 on surface and drilling being able to give good septation.  In fact for example I do believe you could build at least half a good arsenal simply with say 2 Radical The Fixs and a Quick Fix simply with different drillings and surface changes regardless of your style.
Faball Burgundy, Blue, Black Hammers
Faball Red Razor 
AMF Sumo
AMF Gunsmoke Cobra
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Visionary Ogre Urethane
Amflite MagicLine
C300 EPX T1 and some boring reactives

Just a ball junkie house hack on staff with and representing no one but myself.

Tom

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #10 on: December 15, 2017, 04:09:52 PM
Being a low track bowler, I drill all my equipment strong. Symmetrical cores are  Pin above middle finger and CG stacked to the negative side of the center-line. Asymmetrical cores are Pin above middle finger and PSA 3" to the positive side of thumb.

I choose a ball designed for the condition I need, then drill it strong, make some surface tweaks and I'm good to go.

I used to play with different layouts but I found by drilling everything the same, then making surface adjustments, I am a much happier camper.

Jesse James

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #11 on: December 21, 2017, 10:44:32 PM
I'm a wierdo I guess. I have an absolute ton of different layouts. And I kind of know what most of them will do, even with surface changes.

I have a 75x2x35 layout on an old Reaction Rip.....a pearl piece. Wherein, the drillings that I actually like are usually more in the range of 55x 4.5x65.

I have a couple of dry lane pieces with barbell drills on them and a ton of surface.

I like a lot of 45 x 5 x 45 drills.....pin under as well, depending on the piece and it's motor.

I mix and match a lot. I constantly rotate balls from my library just so I can remember the characteristics of each ball.
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giddyupddp

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Re: Drilling Options
Reply #12 on: December 21, 2017, 11:24:29 PM
I think I too have been afflicted with the buying of shit load of balls disease too! But only one urethane, black urethane.

I diversify by buying a shit load of balls but that is more a character flaw lol.  Seriously I recommend your first four balls should be a plastic or urethane drilled label in palm for little flare for spares and bone dry lanes.  A weak pearl ball drilled pin upish for the burn and dry lanes.  A hybrid benchmark ball for medium house shot (hint hint Hy-Road) drilled either way depending on your style and finally a strong solid reactive ball drilled pin down that can handle medium heavy to heavy oil.  Of course style may change these recommendations but its a good starting point for most bowlers imo.  Many people use a middle of the road solid for their benchmark and that is fine as well.  The 5th ball should be a strong perhaps asymmetric pearl pin up for late transition so you can move way left and still get carry.