There is nothing WRONG with using a performance ball at 10 pins. To hold a PBA player up as an example as someone using a rractive ball for 10 pins isn't a very good example. I would think and expect most anyone bowling in PBA tournaments to be able to.

 

Thing is, most high end players have multiple hand positions and releases as well as being able to execute higher ball speeds without losing the ball off line. This is where plastic is most useful tothe lower/middle average players. As charlest says, you do lose some area. But the key is to simplify everything, figure out your targeting, and just put the ball on the target board. Don't need to kill your hand, don't need to throw it harder, nothing. No manipulation required.

 

My brother was a 212 bowler. Went to a spare that feels better and has increased his 10 pin percentage bt 15-20% and raised his average into the 220's and even in the 230's this year.
 

ALL STAR BOWLING & TROPHY
LANGAN'S ALL STAR LANES
IBPSIA MEMBER
WALLED LAKE MI

 

thanks everyone. i like the advice and input. i think i will punch up a platic ball and give it a shot. im a 205-210 avg every year and i want to get to 215-220 or higher(of course). i only convert 60-70% of my ten pins killing the roll. nothing worse then a 6 bagger followed by a 10 pin open. it happens a lot. one last question is there any benifit to reducing the weight of the ball down for a plastic spare ball for better control? i use 16 lb equip was considering 15 plastic spare ball.

I would if I had one!

I have two strike balls, so just bowl flathanded and straight for the spares.

ad. 

I do not use a spare ball (plastic that is), just learned how to flatten out my shot (with a few lessons), I know, who needs lessons. Found it more informative and cheaper then buying another ball that I didn't need. Gives me a spot in the bag for another strike ball if needed.

Thanks

Bob

break your wrist back and point your thumb at the pin you are aiming at. the ball will roll end over end. IT WILL NOT HOOK AT ALL IF YOU THROW IT RIGHT. its best to practice this method with your most aggressive ball. because if your hand position and motion is correct, even stuff as strong as the gravity nano solid will go as straight as a plastic ball. dont say you cant. i throw over 18 out to 5-6 at 17 mph with a very high rev rate on a fresh house shot. my ten pin shot is over 18 as well. my follow through is the exact same as my first shot but my hand position is bent back and locked in that position through my entire motion. I NEVER THROW A PLASTIC BALL EXCEPT ON MORE DEMANDING CONDITIONS SUCH AS SPORT SHOT PATTERNS. and the advantage of pointing your thumb is the fact that you will be throwing a STRAIGHT BALL at your spares. more importantly though. you will never have to worry about the oil conditions ever again. and the reason why is a straight shot, WILL ALWAYS BE STRAIGHT.. you can go anywhere and throw on any kind of surface and a true straight ball will always go straight and not hook NO MATTER WHAT!!!!!. which means your mark for your spares will never change because you dont have to worry about how much oil is located on the boards. im not saying to transform your bowling still but it does work to your advantage if you learn how to do that motion in which i described.

I also use a polyester ball for the 10 pin, just to make sure the ball goes dead straight. I also prefer the hard ball when it comes to most split conversions. I have been experimenting with strike balls on the 10 lately, with inconclusive results. But from what I have seen so far, I will stay with the plastic ball, because balls will react very differently for me, even though I break the wrist totally back and create a straight full roller release, which normally keeps the plastic ball on line. Reactives will grab somewhere, and hook, and if I do not want this extra error factor, I eliminate it.

DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
2010/11 Benrather BC Club Champion
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I used to throw my strike ball as my spare ball and was quite good at spares.  However, I was using soft plastic or uerathane and I was a stroker.  Now that I have learned to hook the ball, and I use reactive equipment, I found I need to use plastice for my spares.  When you try to kill reactive from inside to outside, it will sometimes bite on the burnt track and hook away from the pin.  Using a plastic ball will give you a more predictable shot at corner pins.