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Author Topic: Original Burgundy Hammer  (Read 8013 times)

2handedrook12

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Original Burgundy Hammer
« on: March 01, 2015, 01:29:48 PM »
How strong was this ball?
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Pinbuster

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Re: Original Burgundy Hammer
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2015, 02:07:08 PM »
At that time it was as strong as any ball out. But it is a urethane ball.

We felt they were very brittle and the finger holes would chip out during drilling if you didn't have a sharp bit or tried to drill too fast.
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avabob

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Re: Original Burgundy Hammer
« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2015, 02:00:29 PM »
Original Burgundy Hammer was the strongest urethane Hammer made out of the box.  However, part of the strength came from softer urethane, that tended to polish to the lane very quickly.  The ball was difficult to maintain at optimum strength for that reason.  Urethane balls gained their strength primarily from very strong surface prep ( about 500 for Blue and Burgundy Hammers ).  They also absorbed oil, something that we weren't aware of at the time. 
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2handedrook12

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Re: Original Burgundy Hammer
« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2015, 07:59:47 PM »
Are the newer Urethane balls strong in the front or just the back?
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Pinbuster

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Re: Original Burgundy Hammer
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2015, 08:01:31 AM »
A urethane ball is going to give you a more even/arcing reaction than a resin urethane ball.

It will not slide as much on oil and will have a tamer reaction when it reaches the dry.

The Burgundy hammer in out of the box surface condition would react early on the lane, much earlier than a resin ball and because it bleeds off energy in the front part of the lane it's back end reaction would seem much tamer than resin balls. Thus creating a more arcing shot shape.

Depending on the amount of lane conditioner put down this could lead to the ball rolling out.
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spencerwatts

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Re: Original Burgundy Hammer
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2015, 08:32:37 AM »
I still have both my Fab Burgundy Hammer and Fab Blue Hammer. Both had the dull/matte finishes.

According to Bill Davis who was credited with the development of both pieces, he said the RG/differential numbers were 2.52/.020 (Burgundy) and 2.51/.020 (Blue).

When I used them back in the day (on mostly wood surfaces), I used the Burgundy on what used to call medium/holding conditions. As what's already been posted, the Burgundy Hammer had a tendency of using up its energy early. I left more 10-pins with that piece. I use the Burgundy Hammer these days mostly as a spare ball, and even then it's my third choice.

The Blue Hammer was probably more versatile, although it was used mostly on the fresh. (Some say it was arguably the best urethane ball ever made.) It had good continuation, and for my game I  left fewer 10-pins with that piece. These days, I've used the Blue Hammer on certain house shots when I'm bowling pot games, as well as on sport compliant/flat patterns 40 feet or less. But I've also found it to be a much better spare ball -- I still give that edge to my Black U-dot.
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avabob

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Re: Original Burgundy Hammer
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2015, 11:25:33 AM »
The primary drawback to all urethane balls is their tendency to react to carrydown.   It wasn't an issue so much during the 80's due to the much shorter oil patterns ( 24 feet ).  the introduction of the resin enhanced urethane ball in 1991 triggered the start of an evolution towards higher volumes of higher viscosity oils and longer buffs.  Urethane can be very useful on the modern THS because there is little oil outside 10 board.  On any flatter patterns over 35 feet the carrydown really kills the ball.  Ruff the surface, and it just makes the ball bleed off too early.   
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