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Author Topic: True dry lane ball (Read 1164 times)

lilpossum1

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True dry lane ball
on: August 11, 2017, 11:10:44 AM
I bowl on old wood lanes and in trying to find a solution for late tournaments when the lanes are torched. I fight above ground ball returns so moving deeper than center arrow is impossible on the right lane and this house is known for having dry zones where you can sometimes see The ball check up in the heads. I have tried the urethane route and, although it does tame flying back ends, urethane reads the lane early and does not solve the problem. Not to mention it had a hard time carrying corner pins when I have to open angles up even a little bit. I am considering a really weak resin drilled weak and polishing the dog piss out of it to try to get it through the heads, or plastic with a strong core. Thoughts?

HackJandy

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #16 on: August 12, 2017, 10:30:32 AM
Yeah I agree the blue is better for the burn, just heard the purple hits harder but suspected its too early (own blue but not purple, grass always greener).    Curious to try my red razor finally as its urethane but with very high RG (think significantly greater than 2.7) so it might have the length and will probably carry better than the blue but we shall see.  Its supposedly pretty strong too so might need fresh oil.  Have a feeling if going Faball route for serious burn you need the red pearl or maybe even the pink.
Last Edit: August 12, 2017, 10:40:53 AM by HackJandy

DP3

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #17 on: August 12, 2017, 11:13:07 AM
Charlest, I do agree. I wasn't sure if the "new" Blue Hammer is still in production. That ball "glazes" up a bit to skate through burn on even the oldest surfaces. Very good pick. I know you and I were both fans of the Powergroove Dry/R. I still have a NIB. It never gets dry enough in Vegas for any of the stuff that I was forced to throws on the "fresh" back in the northeast/DMV area.

Last year when we got some true "burn" for a few months in league I was throwing older balls like Vortex II Pearl, Thunderstruck Pearl, Ti-Messenger Pearl. Because of the flare, I was still 5th arrow, but the older covers gave me the length and the control and I picked them all up for $20-25 each through Facebook groups. They've all won their money back 10-20x over with the value vs. taking a gamble on a $150-180 dry lane ball after drilling/inserts/tax.

charlest

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #18 on: August 12, 2017, 12:46:46 PM
DP3,

I don't know whether or not Hammer has discontinued the BH; but am still seeing it available on several internet web sites.

Based on my experience with it, I'd say it was, in all practicality, a super-mild resin, weaker than the current acknowledged weakest resin, the Tropical Storm, nee Breeze. Officially, Hammer calls it a urethane, while Storm also calls the TS a resin.

For the last 2 seasons, thankfully, I have had no need to use the BH, but I still keep it around, just in case. I have used an older ball that is slightly stronger than the BH but weaker than my Tropical Breeze Hybrid, an AMF Orbit Extreme. The Orbit, which I got from Ebay about 2 years back, does handle a ton of dry and I use it at 4000 grit, not the stock polished finish. It also truly has a urethane type of backend even though I drilled in on the stronger side.

The Orbit has a small differential on the order of .024", if memory serves. During this times I had a Messenger Ti Pearl, but it is stronger and needs more oil than all those I've mentioned so far. For me, it required/was useful in true medium-light oil conditions.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

leftybowler70

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #19 on: August 12, 2017, 02:24:36 PM
I was fortunate enough to find a single drilled Natural, in great condition, to use as my new dry lane ball, as my blue hammer can sometimes turn a little too hard off the dry boards, even for me.

You really do have to pay close attention to the definition of a try 'dry lane ball';   More complicated than one would think; it never helps when balls on the so called 'lower end ' are designed to be more aggressive than the avg low end performance piece.

HackJandy

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #20 on: August 12, 2017, 02:28:02 PM
Can always get one of those old rubber balls with a hardness in the 90s for the house that doesn't believe in lane oil.  My opinion is if a house is too dry for my blue hammer (polished and slip agent to hell) probably don't want to bowl there because will tear up your equipment.  Like that house that bowlingzuki guy on youtube rolls all those old gems at.
Last Edit: August 12, 2017, 02:39:23 PM by HackJandy

Juggernaut

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #21 on: August 12, 2017, 03:02:53 PM
  Like that house that bowlingzuki guy on youtube rolls all those old gems at.

 Yea, can you say "Swing shot" with a Manhattan Rubber?
Sheesh.
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits".

charlest

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #22 on: August 12, 2017, 04:04:04 PM
  Like that house that bowlingzuki guy on youtube rolls all those old gems at.

 Yea, can you say "Swing shot" with a Manhattan Rubber?
Sheesh.

In 1967, I could; In 2017, I cannot. "NO, YOU CANNOT!"
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

CoorZero

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #23 on: August 12, 2017, 04:39:46 PM

The Fanatic BTU Pearl might be a great option.  It reacts like a pearl urethane, with a little more kick, but hits like resin.  I bowl a second shift scratch league every year and this one might save me...

This is one I'm really hoping to keep an eye on. Hopefully people buy it around here. If not... might be a real nice buy off the clearance rack later on.  ;D

lilpossum1

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #24 on: August 12, 2017, 09:15:14 PM
After reading all this, I am thinking about the track spare+ more and more, as it is true burn. Or the widow spare. Any key differences between the two?  Also, unofficial thoughts on turtle wax as it as silicone (I believe) to act as a slip agent. Polishing the ever living ________ out of my pitch black doesn't quite make it clean enough when I decide to use it. I know it may not react at all at that point, but that just may be what I am looking for

charlest

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #25 on: August 12, 2017, 09:33:53 PM
After reading all this, I am thinking about the track spare+ more and more, as it is true burn. Or the widow spare. Any key differences between the two?  Also, unofficial thoughts on turtle wax as it as silicone (I believe) to act as a slip agent. Polishing the ever living ________ out of my pitch black doesn't quite make it clean enough when I decide to use it. I know it may not react at all at that point, but that just may be what I am looking for

I used car wax once and destroyed the ball. Had to throw it in the garage. It wouldn't hook on anything.
I'd suggest trying Vise Slip Agent polish.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

lilpossum1

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #26 on: August 13, 2017, 01:10:20 PM
Neo-tac has the Glide. Is that roughly the same as control it?

charlest

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #27 on: August 13, 2017, 01:58:11 PM
Neo-tac has the Glide. Is that roughly the same as control it?

No, that's just a polish with extra fine abrasive.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

lilpossum1

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #28 on: August 14, 2017, 12:21:59 AM
Well I tried it as I am as stubborn as a bull and I wouldn't mind turning my pitch black into a spare ball only worse case scenario. It still hooked off of a 10 pin. After league was over, I threw it a few shots through where we had been playing and the ball did seem to skate through the dry heads and mids, but had a hard arc in the back end. Granted my speed was down some as I had my bowling shoes off and was just walking up to the foul line to throw a couple test shots as an afterthought. I may keep the pitch black in my bag with this surface, and still pick up a spare+. I liked what I saw.

HackJandy

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Re: True dry lane ball
Reply #29 on: August 14, 2017, 10:55:05 AM
Yeah even though I own a significant number of urethane pieces I still insist on carrying a plastic viz a ball spare ball.  Tried using my blue hammer as a spare ball for awhile and just wasn't as comfortable with it and hate missing non split spares more than anything else.  Also did the no no of getting a 1lb lighter spare ball which with a pancake core means its basically worthless for a first ball but now so used to it I can snipe clean games left and right.  I think of it as my putter and so it deserves a place in the bag.
Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 11:00:59 AM by HackJandy