BallReviews
Equipment Boards => 900 Global => Topic started by: Average Joe Reviews on February 03, 2018, 08:00:21 PM
-
Featuring the Adaptor/D Ceramic Asymmetric core and wrapped with the new S86R Pearl coverstock, the Inception DCT Pearl provides easy length and a strong and angular backend motion.
The Inception DCT Pearl is better suited to handle heavier volumes of oil.
We tested the DCT Pearl on our fresh house shot pattern and we were surprised on how smooth and controllable this ball is.
Usually balls with asymmetric big cores and with a shiny pearl coverstock have a skid-flip motion, this is not the case with the Inception DCT Pearl.
We started playing straighter up the lane and we found a great line to the pocket. The Inception DCT is clean through the front part of the lane, but thanks to the Adaptor /D Ceramic Asymmetric core, the ball rev up quickly, providing a strong midlane read and a strong, but controlled backend motion.
This ball provided a big margin of error on our typical house shot pattern. Misses inside of target never went sideways and when we missed too far out, the ball offered a lot of recovery. We kept moving left with both our feet and our eyes, playing a straighter line to the pocket and the ball never overreacted.
We compared this ball with the Inception DCT. The DCT is stronger overall. It has more hook potential, is earlier, smoother and covers more boards than the DCT Pearl.
The Inception DCT Pearl is a great complement to the original DCT. When the solid DCT is too much ball or is losing energy down the lane, the DCT Pearl will be a great ball to go to without making big adjustments.
This ball will be a great option to use on broken down patterns when there is more friction and you need more length and more shape down the lane. What makes the DCT Pearl special is that is not a ball that will make you jump in to keep it in the pocket. It has the length and the shape down the lane of a pearl, but the control of a solid.
Overall, this ball brings a different motion into the 900 Global lineup. The strong, but controlled backend motion this ball has will be helpful to a lot of bowlers. Low rev, speed dominant bowlers will be able to use this ball playing straighter up the lane, while rev dominant bowlers will enjoy the predictability and the energy retention this ball provides.
Thank you for watching!
-
Was looking for a ball that was long with big back end. On fresh oil this ball did nothing but skid way too long and not move. When there was friction the ball would roll forward immediately and not cover any boards or have any continuation. I left 3 pocket 7 10 and almost 2 more with in a few games of practice. I could play straight up and have a better look, but I have every other ball in my bag that I can do that. I needed something that I could throw right and would have a pretty good angle and cover some boards back to the pocket. Knowing that the ball would never work the way it was I started tweaking the surface. I put 4000, then tried 2000, then tried 1000. The ball started reading better, but it just became smoother. Didn't want that either, so after the 1000 I put some secret sauce on it. This ball then came alive. The ball is a little earlier than I wanted but it moves early and keeps on moving on the back end. Not sure why it didn't work out of the box for me, but if it stays like this, I can find a place for it.
-
Was looking for a ball that was long with big back end. On fresh oil this ball did nothing but skid way too long and not move. When there was friction the ball would roll forward immediately and not cover any boards or have any continuation. I left 3 pocket 7 10 and almost 2 more with in a few games of practice. I could play straight up and have a better look, but I have every other ball in my bag that I can do that. I needed something that I could throw right and would have a pretty good angle and cover some boards back to the pocket. Knowing that the ball would never work the way it was I started tweaking the surface. I put 4000, then tried 2000, then tried 1000. The ball started reading better, but it just became smoother. Didn't want that either, so after the 1000 I put some secret sauce on it. This ball then came alive. The ball is a little earlier than I wanted but it moves early and keeps on moving on the back end. Not sure why it didn't work out of the box for me, but if it stays like this, I can find a place for it.
Sounds like you would have been better served with the Honey Badger if you wanted 900 global. The DCT Pearl is globals strongest cover, it's not going to be long and big backend unless you're on heavier oil
-
Was looking for a ball that was long with big back end. On fresh oil this ball did nothing but skid way too long and not move. When there was friction the ball would roll forward immediately and not cover any boards or have any continuation. I left 3 pocket 7 10 and almost 2 more with in a few games of practice. I could play straight up and have a better look, but I have every other ball in my bag that I can do that. I needed something that I could throw right and would have a pretty good angle and cover some boards back to the pocket. Knowing that the ball would never work the way it was I started tweaking the surface. I put 4000, then tried 2000, then tried 1000. The ball started reading better, but it just became smoother. Didn't want that either, so after the 1000 I put some secret sauce on it. This ball then came alive. The ball is a little earlier than I wanted but it moves early and keeps on moving on the back end. Not sure why it didn't work out of the box for me, but if it stays like this, I can find a place for it.
Sounds like you would have been better served with the Honey Badger if you wanted 900 global. The DCT Pearl is globals strongest cover, it's not going to be long and big backend unless you're on heavier oil
Perhaps. I was looking into the Honey Badger since I heard it was a pretty big backend ball. Heard it was a bit squirty in oil and carrydown with the box surface. I didn't really want 900 global but the proshop sold me a pretty good deal on this ball. The 1500 grit polish wasn't doing it any help. Hopefully I can do something with it at 1000 abralon and polish.
-
I took the shine off my HB with a very worn 1500 Pad and it rolls really nice. Much smoother.
-
Was looking for a ball that was long with big back end. On fresh oil this ball did nothing but skid way too long and not move. When there was friction the ball would roll forward immediately and not cover any boards or have any continuation. I left 3 pocket 7 10 and almost 2 more with in a few games of practice. I could play straight up and have a better look, but I have every other ball in my bag that I can do that. I needed something that I could throw right and would have a pretty good angle and cover some boards back to the pocket. Knowing that the ball would never work the way it was I started tweaking the surface. I put 4000, then tried 2000, then tried 1000. The ball started reading better, but it just became smoother. Didn't want that either, so after the 1000 I put some secret sauce on it. This ball then came alive. The ball is a little earlier than I wanted but it moves early and keeps on moving on the back end. Not sure why it didn't work out of the box for me, but if it stays like this, I can find a place for it.
Imo, neither of the DCTs are going to be big backending balls. Too much cover. The stronger the cover, (All surface prep being the same) the more it's going to grab the lane. S74 is a very fast reacting cover, and that's on the Inception Pearl. Honey Badger isn't going to be a ball you use on the fresh, but when they're a touch broken down, it's going to be a monster.
And, as always, 1500 polished sucks.
-
Thought the ball would work well with the surface change, but it is still not good. Left two more pocket 7 10 with the ball. Granted the shots were a little right, but the ball just seems to roll forward too quickly with zero continuation. There isn't any chance the ball will get flush with the pocket and carry. I know I need to be accurate, but there just isn't something right with how this ball is rolling.
Right now it is drilled around a 4 x 4 pin above ring finger. Is there a placement for a weighthole to slow down the transition? Is that what I need?
I could take the surface back up, but at box surface it seemed to go way too long and still roll forward too quickly at the box. It is doing pretty much what I see in all the videos that miss right.
-
If you have to be that accurate on a house shot, you're using the wrong ball.
I remember a long time ago, I drilled up a Havoc and Phenom Unleashed at the same time, same layout. On the house shot, the Havoc was the "stronger" of the 2, but as soon as I bowled on some volume and it wasn't a house shot, the Unleashed ran circles around the Havoc. So the Phenom was just running out of gas.
Remember, the core is STRONG. Chances are you're just not seeing the friction right. Just because a ball is strong doesn't mean you can use it on a house shot. What ball does look good on the shot?
-
Your issue sounds like what I had with the Hyper Cell Skid. My stats aren't too different from yours and I've learned that I have to be careful with strong, high asymmetry balls or they ended being paper weights because there isn't enough oil and they roll forward too quickly.
To be honest, I think you're SOL on it and should try to recover some of your money now as it's not used much.
-
Your issue sounds like what I had with the Hyper Cell Skid. My stats aren't too different from yours and I've learned that I have to be careful with strong, high asymmetry balls or they ended being paper weights because there isn't enough oil and they roll forward too quickly.
To be honest, I think you're SOL on it and should try to recover some of your money now as it's not used much.
You might be right. My Dad had the skid. That ball was the worst as far as rolling forward for him.
I haven't found a heavy oiler or supposed big hooking asymmetrical that works better than a lesser ball. They may hook a tad earlier but almost every other lower end ball looks better and gives me more motion and room. I guess my release and roll just doesn't match up.
-
Your issue sounds like what I had with the Hyper Cell Skid. My stats aren't too different from yours and I've learned that I have to be careful with strong, high asymmetry balls or they ended being paper weights because there isn't enough oil and they roll forward too quickly.
To be honest, I think you're SOL on it and should try to recover some of your money now as it's not used much.
You might be right. My Dad had the skid. That ball was the worst as far as rolling forward for him.
I haven't found a heavy oiler or supposed big hooking asymmetrical that works better than a lesser ball. They may hook a tad earlier but almost every other lower end ball looks better and gives me more motion and room. I guess my release and roll just doesn't match up.
I know this is a thread on the DCT Pearl but my best luck with asymms have been with int. diff of .015 or lower. Right now I have 3 asymms that I like a lot in the Paradox Black, Creed, and Absolute Nirvana. All 3 start between .011 and .015. Remember when you drill a ball, especially 4x4 you're potentially increasing the int. diff even more. DCT Pearl starts out at .024 in 15lbs and you can probably easily increase it over .030
-
If you have to be that accurate on a house shot, you're using the wrong ball.
I remember a long time ago, I drilled up a Havoc and Phenom Unleashed at the same time, same layout. On the house shot, the Havoc was the "stronger" of the 2, but as soon as I bowled on some volume and it wasn't a house shot, the Unleashed ran circles around the Havoc. So the Phenom was just running out of gas.
Remember, the core is STRONG. Chances are you're just not seeing the friction right. Just because a ball is strong doesn't mean you can use it on a house shot. What ball does look good on the shot?
I guess I should use the term house shot lightly. It's a 44 ft house shot. So that should tell you something.. And it has OB right of 8 and tight backends because the lanes suck or the machine doesn't strip correctly. Since they just got a new kegel machine I'm guessing it is the high street pattern. Seems somewhere between 15 to 10 is the area to play.
Grease Monkey Whack gave decent look and motion and had some miss room right.
-
If a Grease monkey whack is giving you a good look, then you're using too much ball with the DCT. The most I would use on a house shot is an Covert Ops.
-
Your issue sounds like what I had with the Hyper Cell Skid. My stats aren't too different from yours and I've learned that I have to be careful with strong, high asymmetry balls or they ended being paper weights because there isn't enough oil and they roll forward too quickly.
To be honest, I think you're SOL on it and should try to recover some of your money now as it's not used much.
You might be right. My Dad had the skid. That ball was the worst as far as rolling forward for him.
I haven't found a heavy oiler or supposed big hooking asymmetrical that works better than a lesser ball. They may hook a tad earlier but almost every other lower end ball looks better and gives me more motion and room. I guess my release and roll just doesn't match up.
I know this is a thread on the DCT Pearl but my best luck with asymms have been with int. diff of .015 or lower. Right now I have 3 asymms that I like a lot in the Paradox Black, Creed, and Absolute Nirvana. All 3 start between .011 and .015. Remember when you drill a ball, especially 4x4 you're potentially increasing the int. diff even more. DCT Pearl starts out at .024 in 15lbs and you can probably easily increase it over .030
I think I need weaker lower flaring equipment. I used to only throw 5" pin to pap or higher, but everyone said my ball was going too long and too angular, so I needed more control. So I started drilling everything stronger. I was throwing mostly Motiv, but basically all the balls that people said were big balls sucked for me. I had uses for the balls, but Covert revolt was my smoothest ball, Havoc was super smooth. Jackal ghost did nothing really. Jackal LE was pretty good, but it did have a longer pin to pap. Only balls that game me good backend and motion were the sigma sting and Venom Shock. So now I'm going back to longer pin to Pap.. except for this ball, cause the pro shop laid it out for me.
I'm going to try to reduce the flare or kill some of the asymmetry to see if that matters.... or just get rid of it.
-
If a Grease monkey whack is giving you a good look, then you're using too much ball with the DCT. The most I would use on a house shot is an Covert Ops.
I understand, but that is my point. If these strong balls just burn up or roll forward and do less on a house shot and then also really do nothing for me on oil, then what is the point of even trying to use them? I remember balls that were strong meant that they actually hooked too much, not did less.
-
Our house has high Street also, I'm throwing my Creed and Tag Cannon for the most part. 44 ft doesn't mean you need a strong ball
-
Our house has high Street also, I'm throwing my Creed and Tag Cannon for the most part. 44 ft doesn't mean you need a strong ball
I understand. It's a funky shot. Believe me. I'm thinking I just don't know how to bowl anymore. Thanks for the help.
-
If a Grease monkey whack is giving you a good look, then you're using too much ball with the DCT. The most I would use on a house shot is an Covert Ops.
I understand, but that is my point. If these strong balls just burn up or roll forward and do less on a house shot and then also really do nothing for me on oil, then what is the point of even trying to use them? I remember balls that were strong meant that they actually hooked too much, not did less.
It's expending all of it's energy too early. That's the fact of the matter. Just because a ball is pearl doesn't mean it's usable on a house shot.
You need to use the ball on a condition that it can shine on. A house shot isn't going to be it. Keep it for longer heavier patterns and be happy you kept it in the bag. It will shock you.
-
If a Grease monkey whack is giving you a good look, then you're using too much ball with the DCT. The most I would use on a house shot is an Covert Ops.
I understand, but that is my point. If these strong balls just burn up or roll forward and do less on a house shot and then also really do nothing for me on oil, then what is the point of even trying to use them? I remember balls that were strong meant that they actually hooked too much, not did less.
It's expending all of it's energy too early. That's the fact of the matter. Just because a ball is pearl doesn't mean it's usable on a house shot.
You need to use the ball on a condition that it can shine on. A house shot isn't going to be it. Keep it for longer heavier patterns and be happy you kept it in the bag. It will shock you.
I should put it back to factory surface or at least higher?
-
Go extreme and try 4k with polish. Or a slip agent like control it or something like that.
It's a STRONG cover! If you can't get it to the spot without it puking, take it back to 1500 polished and use it when nothing else is hooking on the back
-
Looking at the high Street pattern, it looks like a the oil only goes to 35 feet and then buffs to 45. There's not a huge concentration of oil on the outside, so the track should be playable with almost anything. Although not a wall, it's not a lot of volume.
Also, I'll say it again. S86 isn't designed to be sideways off of the spot. It's meant to have some teeth. If there was particle in there, I wouldn't be surprised.
-
Absolutely agree with everything Doom is saying. The ball is not weaker it is actually the opposite it is stronger and the volume of oil is not high enough to really use it. I have a pin down and a pin up version. The pin up version shines on the PBA Earl Anthony 42' pattern (has extreme volume as well). But when I throw my pin down it just spins. That is because it is expending all of its energy in the oil and then has nothing left as it exits the pattern. Needed pin up to retain energy for the exit and all of a sudden I have some area to play with. Trust me the ball is good and keep it in your bag if you plan on bowling on some heavier volume conditions.
-
Looking at the high Street pattern, it looks like a the oil only goes to 35 feet and then buffs to 45. There's not a huge concentration of oil on the outside, so the track should be playable with almost anything. Although not a wall, it's not a lot of volume.
Also, I'll say it again. S86 isn't designed to be sideways off of the spot. It's meant to have some teeth. If there was particle in there, I wouldn't be surprised.
I was guessing at high street based on the length. There is OB right of 8-9. You can get away with playing right of 10 sometimes, usually the shot is left of 10 but if you cross over ten you are doomed. I'll try to figure out exactly what they are putting down.
-
This is why I drill all of my stuff with 5 inch pins and adjust the Val angle for the response I want. After that, surface is King. I've also learned that I don't like certain layouts on certain balls. Anything with the Break weightblock, I love 50*5*65. I have a Black Ops that I laid out 50*4.5*30 (ball had 5 oz of top and a out of line cg by 2 inches. I was limited.) That ball is stupid angular off the spot, but I don't need that kind of reaction out of that ball. S70 is medium strong nowadays and doesn't need help tipping the corner for me. (Will be drilling my Shadow Ops 50*4*30 because urethane)
Go to a place that is putting out a long heavy volume shot and see what happens.
-
Absolutely agree with everything Doom is saying. The ball is not weaker it is actually the opposite it is stronger and the volume of oil is not high enough to really use it. I have a pin down and a pin up version. The pin up version shines on the PBA Earl Anthony 42' pattern (has extreme volume as well). But when I throw my pin down it just spins. That is because it is expending all of its energy in the oil and then has nothing left as it exits the pattern. Needed pin up to retain energy for the exit and all of a sudden I have some area to play with. Trust me the ball is good and keep it in your bag if you plan on bowling on some heavier volume conditions.
I'm bowling on Earl Anthony pattern this weekend so maybe it will work on that.
-
Yeah that pattern takes speed control and the actual play is playing outside between 5 and 7 to start. Then can start to move in off the burn spot from there....I went +105 for 6 last time on that pattern. The DCT Pearl gave me plenty of hook off the spot and also blended the pattern very well. My rev rate is 480's still had to slow it down to read properly. Kept surface as the box because any scuffed all read to early.
-
Yeah that pattern takes speed control and the actual play is playing outside between 5 and 7 to start. Then can start to move in off the burn spot from there....I went +105 for 6 last time on that pattern. The DCT Pearl gave me plenty of hook off the spot and also blended the pattern very well. My rev rate is 480's still had to slow it down to read properly. Kept surface as the box because any scuffed all read to early.
Thanks for the info. I'll take it back up and see what it will do. I still think I am going to have to do something to slow down the transition
-
Still a no go for this ball. Took it back up in surface and practiced with it on Friday. 8 10 out the gate and just didn't look good. Bowled a tournament on Sunday and before I left I drilled the middle finger deeper to maybe reduce the flare a bit and just get it to change the reaction some. Most of my stuff started moving too early so I tried the DCT the first frame of game 5 out of 6. Pretty good shot, POCKET 7 10. I literally have thrown less than 4 full games with this ball and have left 5 7 10's and almost 3 or 4 more with the 7 falling late. Something just isn't right. I think I am selling it.
-
Still a no go for this ball. Took it back up in surface and practiced with it on Friday. 8 10 out the gate and just didn't look good. Bowled a tournament on Sunday and before I left I drilled the middle finger deeper to maybe reduce the flare a bit and just get it to change the reaction some. Most of my stuff started moving too early so I tried the DCT the first frame of game 5 out of 6. Pretty good shot, POCKET 7 10. I literally have thrown less than 4 full games with this ball and have left 5 7 10's and almost 3 or 4 more with the 7 falling late. Something just isn't right. I think I am selling it.
Could it still just be strong a coverstock (polished or not) for the amount of oil you're seeing and your ball speed?
-
Still a no go for this ball. Took it back up in surface and practiced with it on Friday. 8 10 out the gate and just didn't look good. Bowled a tournament on Sunday and before I left I drilled the middle finger deeper to maybe reduce the flare a bit and just get it to change the reaction some. Most of my stuff started moving too early so I tried the DCT the first frame of game 5 out of 6. Pretty good shot, POCKET 7 10. I literally have thrown less than 4 full games with this ball and have left 5 7 10's and almost 3 or 4 more with the 7 falling late. Something just isn't right. I think I am selling it.
Could it still just be strong a coverstock (polished or not) for the amount of oil you're seeing and your ball speed?
Yes it could.. could be too strong a cover and too strong a layout and the ball is rolling forward too early.. But this last ball looked really good. Got down the lane and made a pretty good move to the pocket, and hit the hole pretty well. Just is way too many 7 10s for any hook, roll, or 1 3 hit.
-
Still a no go for this ball. Took it back up in surface and practiced with it on Friday. 8 10 out the gate and just didn't look good. Bowled a tournament on Sunday and before I left I drilled the middle finger deeper to maybe reduce the flare a bit and just get it to change the reaction some. Most of my stuff started moving too early so I tried the DCT the first frame of game 5 out of 6. Pretty good shot, POCKET 7 10. I literally have thrown less than 4 full games with this ball and have left 5 7 10's and almost 3 or 4 more with the 7 falling late. Something just isn't right. I think I am selling it.
Could it still just be strong a coverstock (polished or not) for the amount of oil you're seeing and your ball speed?
Yes it could.. could be too strong a cover and too strong a layout and the ball is rolling forward too early.. But this last ball looked really good. Got down the lane and made a pretty good move to the pocket, and hit the hole pretty well. Just is way too many 7 10s for any hook, roll, or 1 3 hit.
Weak 10 pins, 7 pins (for a righty) where the 5 pin just doesn't drive into the 7 pin, potential 8-10s, where the 8 pin or the 10 pin falls late, or 7-10s in the pocket are indicators of a ball using up too much of its energy too early.
Too early a lane grab for the shine on the surface or for the bowler's ball speed.
either way, wrong ball.
-
Still a no go for this ball. Took it back up in surface and practiced with it on Friday. 8 10 out the gate and just didn't look good. Bowled a tournament on Sunday and before I left I drilled the middle finger deeper to maybe reduce the flare a bit and just get it to change the reaction some. Most of my stuff started moving too early so I tried the DCT the first frame of game 5 out of 6. Pretty good shot, POCKET 7 10. I literally have thrown less than 4 full games with this ball and have left 5 7 10's and almost 3 or 4 more with the 7 falling late. Something just isn't right. I think I am selling it.
Could it still just be strong a coverstock (polished or not) for the amount of oil you're seeing and your ball speed?
Yes it could.. could be too strong a cover and too strong a layout and the ball is rolling forward too early.. But this last ball looked really good. Got down the lane and made a pretty good move to the pocket, and hit the hole pretty well. Just is way too many 7 10s for any hook, roll, or 1 3 hit.
Weak 10 pins, 7 pins (for a righty) where the 5 pin just doesn't drive into the 7 pin, potential 8-10s, where the 8 pin or the 10 pin falls late, or 7-10s in the pocket are indicators of a ball using up too much of its energy too early.
Too early a lane grab for the shine on the surface or for the bowler's ball speed.
either way, wrong ball.
I agree. Wrong ball. Trying to find a way to make it more usable, because right now I don't see a condition where I would be able to find a use for it. Thinking of a weight hole to reduce flare. I might try to polish it even more, but I already put a pretty shiny surface on it.
-
I'm actually looking to punch one of these up for a regional in June. Pretty new pro anvil lane and depending on pattern length, may be what I need to be above my Stealth.
-
I'm actually looking to punch one of these up for a regional in June. Pretty new pro anvil lane and depending on pattern length, may be what I need to be above my Stealth.
I'm ready to sell mine to the highest bidder. It might have a full 4 games.. probably not even that.
-
Go extreme and try 4k with polish. Or a slip agent like control it or something like that.
It's a STRONG cover! If you can't get it to the spot without it puking, take it back to 1500 polished and use it when nothing else is hooking on the back
I agree. It has a strong cover and a BIG core, so the ball is probably bleeding lots of energy. I really like mine with 2K with polish. It lets me play straighter without reading too early and it makes a strong move downlane.
Try using it on different part of the lanes with a polished finish until you find the desired reaction.