That's what my ball driller advised me to do.  Not sure if it makes a difference or not though.
 

Quote from: T_Bone on December 18, 2012, 10:16:16 AM

I was wondering if only balls with filler were suspect to crack until my Lane master terminator cracked. I guess balls just crack after time. I am trying to rotate my equipment so they all get equal use. Maybe if I keep them in play they wont get brittle or dry or whatever they do to crack.

I seriously doubt it. I have had maybe 50+ San Antonio made balls from the original Columbia 300 family: Columbia, Track, AMF, MoRich, and several from the 900Global era made in the same plant. I have had exactly one to crack, a Track Sensor that sat in its box for 3 or 4 years.

Since 1995 I have stored them all in my basement with humidity range of 40 - 60% and temperature range of 55 - 70 degrees. They sit either on an indoor/outdoor carpet, in front of my ball rack or in their original box in the original plastic or cloth bag on a wooden shelf. Some of these balls sit for 5+ years before I think to dig them out and try them again. I do not rotate them in the box so that a different part of the surface is supporting the ball. None other than that one Track ball have cracked.

I suppose, to a certain degree, I am lucky. I do know my driller is always careful about drilling: slow, sharp bit, bevel all holes, minimal use of super glue. The pin is either at least 1/2" -3/4"  from any hole or drilled out completely. Standard precautions.

Now, what do I get to replace it... Maybe I could find another Hype reactive, and drill it weak, or maybe a Hook Pearl, and drill it weak.

The Hooks are a lot stronger than the Links.
Will you be staying with a 900Global product?

I would suggest a Motiv Ascent.

Better add "pearl", as in "Ascent Pearl", because the Ascent Solid sure won't replace a Link.

900 or AMF.

Then the Hook from anyone or a Link or Missing Link from Ebay or someone who has older balls may be your only choice.

I was thinking maybe a Hook Pearl (I like the black one) drilled 70*5.5*30 might do the trick.

I had a Scamp (I would still love one of those!) drilled like that, and I loved it. I could play straighter on almost anything!

I'm concerned about a 30 degrees VAL angle: that's a pretty sharp reaction, in general.
Just remember the Hooks are fairly strong reacting balls, in general. If you're speed dominant, that should add some control to their backend. If you're rev dominant, that will enhance their backend.

If you're wanting this ball for light (or lighter) oil, I'd use a larger VAL, like 40-45 degrees. Remember that's a tall thin core - it usually gives a sharper breakpoint than a rounder, squatter shape.

5.5" pin-PAP sounds reasonable.

At least for me both the Hooks and Missing Links are all substantially stronger than mt Link. The Missing Links are much more angular than the Link with the same drilling. I would say my 5x70x70 Hook solid is probably closest to my Link and the Link has a much stronger drilling on it 4x55x30

And an update... my Link finally cracked around the whole thing, from finger hole to the other finger hole. My kid sure is excited to bust it open, though!

I guess it's stronger than I thought. I can't wait to put holes in my NCode then!