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Author Topic: Break Pearl Question  (Read 8039 times)

jhutch769

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Break Pearl Question
« on: January 12, 2009, 04:40:16 AM »
Hello,

I got in a Break Pearl and was very excited to try it out, however I was extremely disappointed with the results..

Off the top of my head, I cannot remember the exact coordinates for the layout used, but the ball just NEVER flipped over or got into a roll..  We used a very weak layout..  Something around 50 x 5" x 45, pin over middle finger..  I changed the surface everywhich way and ball never flipped never rolled..

Changed the layout somewhere around 50 x 4" x 30 with a hole slightly below PAP..

Same thing, a touch stronger, but no flip..  Rolly and archy, but not strong and not what I was looking for..  Changed surfaces again, still terrible results..

I am starting to wonder if I got a bad batch of cover..  THe ball is still flaring and there is flare separation, but no reaction..  

My PAP is 4 > x 1/2 ^
330 RPM
16 MPH overall ball speed..

Anyone have any suggestions?
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tdub36tjt

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2009, 01:01:02 PM »
I am assuming you bought it NIB if you bought it used it may be oil soaked and need an extraction. My break pearl is actually very strong it has a lot of midlane and doesn't quit. It is one of the strongest pearls I have thrown. I think. My PAP is similar to yours revs are close I just have a touch more speed. I would say try it at around 2000 with a coat of non-abrasive polish. Should help it get started but still have the flip. Mine is drilled a touch stronger than yours, but it is almost too flippy so I don't get to use it unless there is a touch of longer oil.
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charlest

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2009, 02:12:45 PM »
Any chance you're using it on too much oil. A friend whose balls rarely flip uses his on medium-light oil and it backends like few I have seen.

Your rev rate is high enough and neither drilling is unusual.

OH, the MB!!
This ball has a very strong mass bias. You can't put it too far towards the PAP. Where did that drilling leave the MB??
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

jhutch769

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2009, 03:54:37 PM »
Almost forgot, first drill MB was under thumb, second drill moved it right a touch..  Without being in the shop, I don't remember exact distances.

Ball is brand new...

Edited on 1/12/2009 4:55 PM
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charlest

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #4 on: January 12, 2009, 04:13:55 PM »
quote:
Almost forgot, first drill MB was under thumb, second drill moved it right a touch..  Without being in the shop, I don't remember exact distances.

Ball is brand new...

Edited on 1/12/2009 4:55 PM


Either you're using it on far too much/too little oil or there is something wrong with the ball/CG/MB markings, etc. Contact Eric at 900Global. Ask for advice. They love to help.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

A_P_K

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2009, 04:18:58 PM »
How many games do you have on it?

My Break pearl is drilled pin over ring with the MB 1" right of thumb.

When I first got my Break pearl it was a dart.  I've since then noticed that 900G covers need a little break in time to really come to life.  My Break pearl now makes a very strong nearly flippy arc in the back.

It also isn't the greatest fan of fresh upper medium head oil for me it will roll through the break point almost all the time unless I throw it 5 mph.


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T_Bone

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2009, 05:33:50 PM »
My BP didnt really come to life until I had about 20 games on it. Make sure you give it 20 games or so before you judge this ball. If you dont like it after 20 games pm me and maybe we can make a deal. I love my BP. Got my second sanctioned 300 with it. Good luck and good bowling!
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Todd.

tdub36tjt

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2009, 06:13:04 PM »
The reason it would seem to come to life after 20 games would probably be the polish wearing off. Since he tried it without the polish I don't see that being the problem.

I would talk to Eric for his advice. I would say either it has mismarked mass bias or something else is wrong. With the mass bias just a little to the right of the thumb it should have a lot of punch in the back with the layout you have. The only other thing is it could be the lane condition. Have you thrown it on fresh oil with clean backends?? Carrydown could give the look of a rolly ball reaction as could not enough head oil if it is rolling out.

quote:
My BP didnt really come to life until I had about 20 games on it. Make sure you give it 20 games or so before you judge this ball. If you dont like it after 20 games pm me and maybe we can make a deal. I love my BP. Got my second sanctioned 300 with it. Good luck and good bowling!
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Todd
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jhutch769

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2009, 07:22:39 PM »
That is the other thing, I have used it on several different conditions in 3 different houses..  Fresh out of the bag league, second shift league, in a 10 game baker tournament toward the end of the block..  And in an 8 game tournament games 5-7..........

Used it with 1000 grit, 1000 grit polish, 2000 grit, OOB, and fresh 4000 abralon
all abralon
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jhutch769

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2009, 09:25:37 PM »
Go there, semi long and technical read, but it is what the numbers mean with visual descriptions.  

https://www.buddiesproshop.com/114/Mo_Pinel_Dual_Angle_Layout_Technique.htm
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jhutch769

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2009, 11:46:12 PM »
I did give you an answer to the question you asked, but I just did it in fuller detail without having to type it all myself..

However, the first number (50 degrees) is the drilling angle.. the drilling angle measures the angle between the line drawn from the pin to the preferred spin axis (PSA) of the ball and the line drawn from the pin through the PAP. (So Pin To PAP and Pin to MB equals 50 degrees)  10 degree angle causes it to roll up soonest, 90 degrees is the latest...  We chose 50..

The Pin distance (4") creates large track flare..

The final angle 30 degrees is the angle from the Pin to PAP and the Vertical Axis Line (VAL)...  goes from 20 to 70 degrees..  20 degrees revs up/transistions quickest 70 latest and slowest..

Edited on 1/13/2009 0:57 AM

Edited on 1/13/2009 0:58 AM
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directdrill

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2009, 07:43:50 AM »
This comment makes no sense.  MoRich's Dual Angle system can be used for both symmetrical and asymmetrical cores.  Did you read the link jhutch provided?

As others have mentioned, I didn't care for my Break Pearl at first.  After 15-20 games, the ball reaction is much better.  Mine is a 2nd with a 5" pin.  It is drilled pin over bridge, approximately 4" above midline with the MB above the thumb, which is  approximately 5-1/2 x 4-1/2, no weighthole.  

quote:
What ever Dude, take your Morich Dual Angle drilling's and go apply them to  Morich balls, maybe the Dual Angle drilling is not meant for balls with a marked Preferential Spin Axis (PSA)!
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jbuzz31

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #12 on: January 13, 2009, 07:47:35 AM »
quote:
What ever Dude, take your Morich Dual Angle drilling's and go apply them to  Morich balls, maybe the Dual Angle drilling is not meant for balls with a marked Preferential Spin Axis (PSA)!
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ummmmmmm  ...........all Morich Balls have a marked PSA  also known as a MB sooo .  try again.
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Lillen

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #13 on: January 13, 2009, 07:55:37 AM »
quote:
What ever Dude, take your Morich Dual Angle drilling's and go apply them to  Morich balls, maybe the Dual Angle drilling is not meant for balls with a marked Preferential Spin Axis (PSA)!
--------------------
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Have a look at this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oq8SG1rqdCw
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Dan Belcher

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Re: Break Pearl Question
« Reply #14 on: January 13, 2009, 07:57:29 AM »
Drrev2000, the Morich Dual Angle drilling technique isn't really any different than any other technique.  It's just the method of getting there in the end.  It's not going to give you any really weird, exotic layouts.  It's just a different way of accomplishing what, for example, Storm's pin buffer layout system does.  You choose the pin to PAP distance and change the angle numbers based off how snappy or rolly you want the ball to be, and this gives you the pin height and distance from the VAL as well as the MB placement, just like any other layout.  It works just fine with asymmetric and symmetric cores from any manufacturer -- my ball driller's been using it exclusively for a few months now and getting results just as good as before, but it's a little easier and quicker than some other layout methods.
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