Hey guys, I have been looking at my scores, looking at my style, and looking at wtf went wrong.  I was averaging over 20 pins higher 5 years ago before I developed more hand and had to start swinging the ball on most shots.  I can do it, but I'm not as good as I was going up the boards.  I think I would be better served to move back right, not hit the ball AS much and be able to get to my comfort zone of 18 to 5 and be happy.  I need something that will give me that look again.  My all time favorite ball was essentially what has become the avalanche pearl now I guess, but the X zone te2, a pearl ball that I could get a consistant read out of at the break with easy enough length and a nice hard arc.  I scored my first 600,700, 279,288, 290 all with it, then I sold it as I went to a lighter ball. Needless to say I would like that reaction back, so I should probably go with the avalanch pearl, but the Breaks and the success I had with dynothane in the past bring me here.  From what I have seen the BP is very angular off the point and looks to be a little more ball than I need.  Is it possible to drill it to make it tamer and more in control, or should I scrap the idea and just get something weaker? I want something that most people (I feel anyway) would use on a lighter shot. I would like to be able to walk into the ths bull crap and dominate like I once could by getting in just deeper than the fluffers, bouncing it ever so slightly and demolish the rack while listening to everybody on the pair complain about how they can't carry the corners (sorry another annoyance to me.. if you aren't carrying MOVE).  The way I would LIKE to get back to throwing is initial ball speed of 15.5-16.5, 300rpms, stand 30, arrows at ~18, break pt 7-5, back with a sweeping arc with my high track style that prevents me from generating the legth I sometimes crave.  What I DON'T want, is an over under machine, or anything near as strong as my total NV, thats more than I need. I go up from there with the cell and I will add something over the top of that for real oil, I have a redzone that fits under the NV but is not exactly consistant for me, when its good its great, but the opposite is true too.  I want to replace the redzone with a bench mark type ( I used to have a vapor zone drilled mild with 4000 finish that fit the bill, lost due to weight) and add something really weak but semi angular below that for dries.  Is the break pearl a good idea for the benchmark or am I misfiring here a little?  Should I look at the creature instead?  Or something from AMF or any suggestion would be fine.  Thanks to you that read my book, and more thanks to those who chime in.

Is your Break Pearl at box finish?

If so, you can take it down to something around 1000 - 2000 abralon and it will smooth the ball out at the break point. You won't lose hardly any length and should eliminate your over/under issues.

The Break Pearl can be tamed if you want something stronger than the Creature line. My Rico'd Break Pearl is still strong, but not overly flippy. To take it one step further, you can scuff the polish off a bit for even more control.

Having said all of this, it sounds like you are trying to get into something more along the lines of a Creature. I put a light polish on my Creature solid, and it is a wonderful piece.
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Jon (in Ohio)
aka: Rico Swervé~

The Break pearl comes incredibly shiny OOB but after use it will dull down some due to wear.

Anyways this ball is super versatile for me depending on my release it can roll smooth and arc, or skid and flip.  Mine is drilled pin over ring finger with the MB 1"-ish right of the thumb.

You're not me but I didn't have much luck with the Creature solid.  I've tried various surface adjustments and it was just over under. (800 sanded, 800 with polish, 2000 with polish)  So I'd also agree with the Creature pearl if you don't buy a Break pearl.
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The original Pin Krusher