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Author Topic: pin cg distance and top weight  (Read 5353 times)

splitcity

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pin cg distance and top weight
« on: August 15, 2003, 12:33:36 AM »
could someone educate me on the significance of the pin-cg distance(what it means) and top weight means. thanks.
lets face it... this isnt deadlifting or picking up women.. its BOWLING!!!! Stop acting tough when you roll 4 strikes in a row!!!

 

Strider

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Re: pin cg distance and top weight
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2003, 04:31:35 PM »
The basics:  Short pin to CG distance (0.5-1.5") will give early roll and moderate backend.  Long pins (5"+) wil give a lot of length and backend.  Most people want 2-3" pins for arc and a 3-4" pin for a little more length and flip.  High top weight will give length and backend.  Low top weight will be more early roll.  Most people want 2-3 oz.  If you order a ball with high top weight (4+ oz) you will need a monster weight hole if you plan on moving the CG away from grip center.  Pin to CG distance plays a bigger role than top weight.
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splitcity

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Re: pin cg distance and top weight
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2003, 10:55:51 AM »
thanks that helps. now here is more. i have 2 balls. a werewolf and a hammer blade. i feel both are similar in terms of hook potential. the wolf has a pin- cg distance of 3-4" and the blade is 2-3". the wolf has 3 oz top weight and the blade has 3.5 oz. so what to do, what to do, especially considering the balls similarities? i dont want them to react the same i would like one to go longer and the other to rev early and hard.
lets face it... this isnt deadlifting or picking up women.. its BOWLING!!!! Stop acting tough when you roll 4 strikes in a row!!!

Strider

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Re: pin cg distance and top weight
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2003, 12:14:38 PM »
These are very general guidelines since you didn't give us any personal specs to work with.  Speed, rev rate, axis, tilt, lane conditions all make a big difference.

There's a lot that goes into a ball's reaction other than the pin to CG distance and the top weight.  I don't know enough about either ball to make a recommendation.  The Blade is much newer so I would assume it would be the bigger hooker.  Usually a medium oil ball of a few years ago becomes a med/dry ball on more modern oil.  It seems every year covers become more and more aggressive.  It's easy to compare other numbers (rg and differential for example), but covers don't always compare.

Hopefully someone here can compare the relative hook of the two balls.  If so, take the more aggressive one and set it for earlier roll and controlled backend.  Take the other and set it up for length.

Other than surface (what I don't know about your two balls) pin to PAP (positive axis point) is the next thing to worry about.  If your proshop doesn't know how to find it, I'd look for another.  To find it, throw a low flaring ball with your normal release in the oil (middle of the lane).  Trace the oil line closest to your fingers and thumb with a grease pencil.  Put the ball in an ashtray with the line parallel to the table and your finger and thumb holes above your line.  The very top of the ball should be your PAP.  Put a piece of tape there and throw the ball again.  If the tape doesn't move for the first 15-20' of the lane, you got it right.  You might have to adjust it slightly.

Putting the pin 3 3/8" from the PAP is normally the maximum flare position.  Closer will give earlier roll and further away will give more length.  For the ball you want to hook sooner, put the pin 3-4" from your PAP, and kick the CG a little right.  You will probably need a weighthole on or near your PAP to remove excess sideweight and make the ball legal.  For the ball you want length from, put the pin 5" from your PAP and stack the pin underneath.
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