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Author Topic: Avalanche Urethane  (Read 8296 times)

LotsaBalls

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Avalanche Urethane
« on: June 03, 2010, 01:29:02 AM »
Mine should be here tomorrow, has anyone drilled one yet?

 

LotsaBalls

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #31 on: June 18, 2010, 09:53:38 AM »
quote:
quote:
Mine is very strong, not at all what I was hoping for. It's not a bad ball and it will get some use but I wouldn't consider it a urethane type reaction. i never seen a urethane read the friction like this ball. I was practicing with Tom Smallwood earlier in the week and he had the same opinion of it. Very smooth on lighter volume patterns, but I think it will be to strong on the shorter sport patterns.


how do you have yours drilled.. pin to pap.. and pin to VAL..

Mine isn't strong at all.. kind of disappointed in the backend..
ball has trouble getting the ten out..
I just chalked it up to the lanes not being dry enough..


4in pin to pap and a 2 in pin buffer.
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18 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, 15 deg axis tilt, varied rotational axis deg.. usually 45+
HighGame 300 x 4, High Series 808
Book Average 220,PBA Xperience 185


charlest

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #32 on: June 18, 2010, 10:27:07 AM »
quote:
quote:
quote:
So am I thinking crazy or would this ball drilled right be a good solid spare ball?  

I keep breaking my plastic balls around the thumbhole because of my track rolling over the thumb hole and my higher ball speed.  This is in less than a month they break, and I have done it to 3 different plastic balls now.  



In regards to plastic spare balls cracking around the thumb - yes, a urethane ball will hold up immensely better to that sort of abuse.  I had similar issues and prefer urethane to polyester for my spare ball.

Out of curiosity, did you use a thumb slug in those plastic balls that cracked around the thumb hole?  Local shop has been eliminating the slug on spare balls and that has decreased this sort of problem as well.
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Yeah I have a thumb slug in the spare balls, one was a vise IT system actually and it got to where I had to finally pry the IT Slug out of the hole cause it was almost completely jammed in there from the cracks.  The first was a Vis-A-Ball and second a T-Zone, this one is a blue dot.  The blue dot has decided to totally crack and actually having the plastic fall out of the ball already (it's only 3 weeks old).  I guess cause it's more brittle, I had feared that it could be worse with a blue dot, sad because I really like how straight this thing goes.  

I had another idea that I had read about where you have the thumb hole drilled out really large and plug it, then drill the thumb hole.  So I guess in theory that would possibly make it less likely to crack from having either a bigger hole or different material around the thumb hole or avoiding the glue directly on the plastic.

I like the idea though of a urethane or rubber spare ball, plastic seems cheap and with it cracking just makes me feel my assumptions are correct.  I am amazed that the avalanche urethane might not be a good choice from looking at the perfect scale on bowlingball.com and seeing it lower than any of the other urethanes.  Then again I see the durometer of it is slightly lower than the natural or grenade which is odd, since would think it'd be harder being pearlized (then again not sure why I think that, don't know if it would make it harder with pearl).  

Thanks,
Chris

Thanks,
Chris



Chris,

If I may,
1. W/r to the perfect scale on bowlingball.com, we don't have any clue as to how they develop those numbers. Many people think it's just advertising. I don't see how the Avalanche Urethane can be a lower number than some others, like the Groove urethane which uses a plain pancake core. So I just wouldn't use it, untilt they explain how they get the numbers and justify them.

2. Pearlized balls are not harder than solids. They are the same hardness, in general. What they are is less elastic. That is, they deform less under pressure. Just sitting there on the lane, a solid of one ball has a greater contact surface than the pearl of the same surface. This is true, AFAIK, for resins. I am not certain if the same principleholds true for urethane. It probably does.

The Avalanche urethane will hook more and react more dynamically, mostly due to its core, than the Groove Urethane which has a simple pancake core. The Groove will more than likely make a better overall spare ball, especially if you polished it.
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charlest

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #33 on: June 18, 2010, 10:30:27 AM »
quote:
Mine is very strong, not at all what I was hoping for. It's not a bad ball and it will get some use but I wouldn't consider it a urethane type reaction. i never seen a urethane read the friction like this ball. I was practicing with Tom Smallwood earlier in the week and he had the same opinion of it. Very smooth on lighter volume patterns, but I think it will be to strong on the shorter sport patterns.


That might depend on the drilling and the bowler's hand.

I saw Johnny Petraglia practicing with "them". He had 3 of the Avalanche's drilled up. To say he loves them would be a major understatement. He had one pretty dull and was playing a good number of boards on a pattern that usually requires a medium strength resin ball. He had the other 2 polished but drilled differently.

I guess I better get mine drilled up soon.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

bitbytebit

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #34 on: June 18, 2010, 10:30:29 AM »
Yeah I see the groove urethane definitely looks good, except from what I can tell it's hard to find a 15# one since they don't seem to be in production anymore .  Also looking on Ebay right now seems there's no pancake core urethane balls in 15# sizes which are reasonably priced and would be an approved ball across PBA/USBC.  I'd go with the groove urethane if I found a source, I'm guessing my proshop guy can't just order one anymore since they don't seem to be in production.  

Thanks,
Chris

charlest

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #35 on: June 18, 2010, 12:46:00 PM »
quote:
Yeah I see the groove urethane definitely looks good, except from what I can tell it's hard to find a 15# one since they don't seem to be in production anymore .  Also looking on Ebay right now seems there's no pancake core urethane balls in 15# sizes which are reasonably priced and would be an approved ball across PBA/USBC.  I'd go with the groove urethane if I found a source, I'm guessing my proshop guy can't just order one anymore since they don't seem to be in production.  

Thanks,
Chris


I'd check with Brunsnick here. I think he's now working for Brunswick, not 100% positive.
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tywithay

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bitbytebit

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #37 on: June 18, 2010, 01:15:31 PM »
quote:
http://www.bowling.com/products/brunswick-groove-urethane-dark-blue-light-blue.htm


Ah cool, thanks that's awesome, crazy how couldn't find it in google searching for it.  Looks like what I'm looking for, will double check if my driller can also get these since he wraps the drilling price into the ball price.  Otherwise looks like I'll be buying it from there.

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #38 on: June 18, 2010, 01:43:53 PM »

One more consideration for you. How many pins are you shooting at with your spare ball? One, two, maybe three?

The reason I ask is because every ball I use is 15 lbs. EXCEPT my spare ball, which is 14 pounds. The reason is I like more deflection to convert the baby split when it happens. When I'm shooting at corner pins who cares that it's lighter? I can also speed it up if necessary, or I can use my normal delivery. I'm only trying to knock down 1 or 2 pins 99% of the time.

The other advantage is that over the course of many years and "billions" of spare attempts it is less wear and tear on my body.

I'm very happy that my Groove Urethane has been a great spare ball. Mine also came highly polished, which is a bonus.


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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Pro Shop Staff

www.brunswickbowling.com

The opinions expressed are solely those of the writer and not of Brunswick Corporation.

bitbytebit

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #39 on: June 18, 2010, 02:25:34 PM »
I shoot at any spare which isn't able to be hit with my strike line, since mostly bowl on sport shots and am pretty accurate at throwing the ball straight.  Definitely sounds like a great ball the more I look at it and exactly what I want.  Just will be glad not to have to worry about cracking it and buying a new one every month or so.  

Thanks,
Chris
quote:

One more consideration for you. How many pins are you shooting at with your spare ball? One, two, maybe three?

The reason I ask is because every ball I use is 15 lbs. EXCEPT my spare ball, which is 14 pounds. The reason is I like more deflection to convert the baby split when it happens. When I'm shooting at corner pins who cares that it's lighter? I can also speed it up if necessary, or I can use my normal delivery. I'm only trying to knock down 1 or 2 pins 99% of the time.

The other advantage is that over the course of many years and "billions" of spare attempts it is less wear and tear on my body.

I'm very happy that my Groove Urethane has been a great spare ball. Mine also came highly polished, which is a bonus.


--------------------
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Pro Shop Staff

www.brunswickbowling.com

The opinions expressed are solely those of the writer and not of Brunswick Corporation.

dougb

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Re: Avalanche Urethane
« Reply #40 on: June 18, 2010, 05:18:51 PM »
I'm about to get the thumb moved on Rhino Pro Urethane I bought (the blue one).  I wonder how it would compare to the new Avalanche Urethane?

And if anybody's interested, I have a single drill Black Rhino in 15 (might be 1.5 drills, need to look at the thumb).  It has the pancake core and urethane shell.