BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Brunswick => Topic started by: kidlost2000 on May 27, 2013, 08:31:22 AM
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Got in my first two games with the new Brunswick Strike King Black. Great new piece to have.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fz5Pe6_PqiE
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i have a brunswick slingshot which i like but how would this ball compare to it. is it stronger, weaker or the same?
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80s flashback music! Nice vid!
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i have a brunswick slingshot which i like but how would this ball compare to it. is it stronger, weaker or the same?
According to the some of the " scales" I've seen its listed as slightly higher than the slingshot on the hook rating and even a couple of points higher than the Ringer. Never thrown one myself but still could be useful.
Edit: I've also noticed some people say it should be slotted below the Ringer so its possible its completely wrong.
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Thanks Nick.
BM817
I had my Slingshot I was going to try and throw as well but the span is a bit long and wouldn't do it justice. The few times I was able to throw the slingshot it was every bit as clean through the heads but not as strong down lane. I felt the Karma b/g was a bit earier then the SK but as the lanes broke down the SK was able to hang with the Karma no problem. I think on a little heavier oil playing more direct the Karma would be a little earlier then the SK.
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i have a brunswick slingshot which i like but how would this ball compare to it. is it stronger, weaker or the same?
the strike king is replacing the slingshot so i would say they are in the same general area
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I don't get it. Were you bowling in sand to have a supposedly weak ball hook half the lane. I didn't see a ball made for a down and in shot at all.
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It was a lighter oil condition. It is summer time oil is scarce. That being said I could easily have gone to stroking the ball more to play more direct without issue. The backends are always a little stronger in this house then else where.
Here is the same Karma used in a house with more oil and less backends.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hEzv0xWk-M
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The Strike King looks very jumpy off the dry compared to a previous fast response coverstock on the Karma. PK18.
Like many pearls...
REgards,
Luckylefty
PS IS your Slingshot a lot smoother? I hope so!
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Some things to remember: It looks like he's bowling on AMF lanes which are a softer material than Brunswick Pro Anvil lanes. Then he also said the house has limited amount of oil for summer bowling, which a lot of houses do! Compared to the Karma blue/green, it was a bit weaker reacting ball. Not knowing the volume of oil they use, pattern lenght, and if it was a left over condition! Plus, with the Rico layout it's created a earlier revving reaction and reads to mids sooner! Just my $.02, Bruce
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The slingshot is drilled with a 4.75" pin to pap just right of the ring finger and a large p3 xhole. When it sees friction it reacts. If I knocked the shine off and left it at say 4000grit then id imagine it would be much smoother. Same for the SK and the pearl Karma.
Id say with what ive seen so far using the SK it is cleaner then the Karma with more pop down lane. The first over lay shows me further right with the SK compared to the Karma. The second overlay shows that I could move in and the SK still recover.
However if I moved right with the Karma and tried playing the same line as the SK in the first overlay the Karma would go through the face.
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Oh....I don't see your slingshot video. But I would enjoy that on this condition.
Kid, you don't feel that the rico drilled strike king is reacting very strongly to the dry versus the Karma? I can't imagine how jumpy a 4 1/2 pin to pap strike king would be!
Let me know..
Regards,
Luckylefty
PS of course there are not many pearls that impress me on fresh! Jumpy!
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No I think the SK rolls close to what I had hoped for.
The last two shots of the video are over laps. The first shows the SK further right of the Karma. The next one is when I move in to play both on the same line and the SK stays board for board with the Karma.
However the Karma would read the lane too soon and hook earlier if it was moved further right and thrown where the SK was being played.
The Sling Shot wasn't thrown due to span issues being an older ball. The few time I threw it that day it was still very angular but not as strong as the SK or Karma. The SK more ball then the Slingshot. I think that was obvious when they gave it a stronger core and a new cover for the entry level series.
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Bummer, I would love to see that video.
I loved the smoothness of the Karma!
Regards,
Luckylefty
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It almost happened just couldn't throw the Slingshot consistent enough to do it justice.
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Well this ball looks very strong. I recently got refitted with the Bill Hall Tri Grip and have been going back and forth on getting a new Strike King or redoing my highly polished Teal Rhino Pro to fill out the light end of my bag. I know I'll eventually do the Rhino but I just love the new Brunswick equipment, too. Looking at that video I'm apt to stick with the Teal. That Strike King has a lot of pop on the back end and I have a Ringer for that!
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At box finish the SK is a lot like the Ringer in shape and reaction. The SK would be a great step down and it backend is a concern just knock the shine off with 4000 to smooth it down. Anything thats a high gloss polish finish is going to react hard to friction. Thats the purpose. It also gets the ball through the lighter oil in the heads much easier.
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I am still sad to see the slingshot go :'(
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I guess in general when I see a non blended fresh wall like that I am all sorts of into solids, and medium cores and stronger pins or earlier rolling pins should I say to avoid getting lope then snap!
I have not tried a Rico! Maybe I should.
Also, along the lines of this post, I was wondering if the Purple/black or Red Black Slingshots are more along the lines of solids then the rest of the Slingshots which have a lot of pearl or Silver in them?
Anyone know?
REgards,
Luckylefty
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Lefty, with all the issues you have with screaming gutters and backends, you should.
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My puple slingshot is every bit as pearl looling as the others.
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Kid,
I agree. The one I am referring to is purple and black.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10lb-Brunswick-Slingshot-Black-Pink-Bowling-Ball-/360664658984?pt=Bowling&hash=item53f949f428
Like this
I think this below is yours:?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14lb-Brunswick-Slingshot-Purple-Pearl-Bowling-Ball-/360659142789?pt=Bowling&hash=item53f8f5c885
I've actually seen some in the local pro shop that look more like polished solids like the pink black above and another color scheme?
Thoughts?
Regards,
Luckylefty
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Impending,
Help me out....I don't quite understand your post?
Please clarify.
REgards,
Luckylefty
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Kid,
I agree. The one I am referring to is purple and black.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10lb-Brunswick-Slingshot-Black-Pink-Bowling-Ball-/360664658984?pt=Bowling&hash=item53f949f428
I've actually seen some in the local pro shop that look more like polished solids like the pink black above and another color scheme?
Thoughts?
Regards,
Luckylefty
For whatever it's worth, as far as I know all Slingshots for sale in the USA are pearls. However, some one (who I thought might know) suggested to me a year or so back that the Black/Pink Slingshot used Activator coverstock, not the PK 17 used on all the rest. That said, I have no corroboration for this statement. I had intended to try one but never got around to it.
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There are a lot of bowling balls that look solid but are still pearlized. Dont let looks be the factor. Go with what is proven.
Activator+ on the slingshot core would be a hell of a ball for that price point.
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The difference, now a days, between a solid and a pearl are minuscule....and if one does not concur, take 2 balls of the exact same type that come in a solid and a pearl...lay em out the same and knock the surfaces down to 360-500 then smooth up to whatever desired surface, then throw...the same amount of times. Unless the density of the materials used changes, i.e. pearl additive...the reaction does not change. Case in point, all solids tend to have surface and pearls are shiny....what dictates reaction?
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The difference, now a days, between a solid and a pearl are minuscule....and if one does not concur, take 2 balls of the exact same type that come in a solid and a pearl...lay em out the same and knock the surfaces down to 360-500 then smooth up to whatever desired surface, then throw...the same amount of times. Unless the density of the materials used changes, i.e. pearl additive...the reaction does not change. Case in point, all solids tend to have surface and pearls are shiny....what dictates reaction?
Let me take a wild stab in the dark: the surface?
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Lol good guess...it has been since the beginning of pearls, that due to aesthetics, pearls have always even shiny. Take the original Inferno, they were 2000-4000 with no polish and reacted as strong as any ball....look at the Absolute. Bowlers have been trained that pearls skid more and solids are smoother.
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Kid,
I agree. The one I am referring to is purple and black.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10lb-Brunswick-Slingshot-Black-Pink-Bowling-Ball-/360664658984?pt=Bowling&hash=item53f949f428
I've actually seen some in the local pro shop that look more like polished solids like the pink black above and another color scheme?
Thoughts?
Regards,
Luckylefty
For whatever it's worth, as far as I know all Slingshots for sale in the USA are pearls. However, some one (who I thought might know) suggested to me a year or so back that the Black/Pink Slingshot used Activator+ coverstock, not the PK 17 used on all the rest. That said, I have no corroboration for this statement. I had intended to try one but never got around to it. Activator+ often acts more like a solid, except when highly polished.
Maybe the person got that ball confused with the Pink/Purple Karma, which uses Activator+.
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I was just wondering about hardness.
It seems like a lot of the pearls have a higher number on the hardness scale versus the solids.
Many of my solids to me with similar surface preparations seem smoother in their response to friction than similarly prepared pearls. Could it be the hardness factor also?
Regards,
Luckylefty
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Lefty,
I was saying that with all the times you've said that your ball goes sideways off of the friction, that you would probably benefit from a rico drill to help out.
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JR that brings up a coversation I had years ago with my bro when I asked him "is a pearl really a pearl ?" When adjusting surface on either pearl or solid the reaction was the same as the other. Plus balls like the mentioned Infernos looked like they should be sold as "pearlized" but were listed as solids.
Then I drilled an n'tense levrg which was listed as pearl but had surface and needed oil because it was a monster ball.
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Instead of the Rico layout I would think something that would reduce the flare
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If you minimize the flare you increase the potential of length and a quicker response...if you want something less angular, you need to slow the ball down before it gets to the 35-45' range...
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There are a lot of bowling balls that look solid but are still pearlized. Dont let looks be the factor. Go with what is proven.
Activator+ on the slingshot core would be a hell of a ball for that price point.
Make that Activator, not Activator+. Sorry, my mistake.
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Kid,
I agree. The one I am referring to is purple and black.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10lb-Brunswick-Slingshot-Black-Pink-Bowling-Ball-/360664658984?pt=Bowling&hash=item53f949f428
I've actually seen some in the local pro shop that look more like polished solids like the pink black above and another color scheme?
Thoughts?
Regards,
Luckylefty
For whatever it's worth, as far as I know all Slingshots for sale in the USA are pearls. However, some one (who I thought might know) suggested to me a year or so back that the Black/Pink Slingshot used Activator+ coverstock, not the PK 17 used on all the rest. That said, I have no corroboration for this statement. I had intended to try one but never got around to it. Activator+ often acts more like a solid, except when highly polished.
Maybe the person got that ball confused with the Pink/Purple Karma, which uses Activator+.
Again, sorry. It's Activator, NOT Activator+. Yes, it was a color related situation, but it was well before the Pink/Purple Pearl Karma.
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I was just wondering about hardness.
It seems like a lot of the pearls have a higher number on the hardness scale versus the solids.
Many of my solids to me with similar surface preparations seem smoother in their response to friction than similarly prepared pearls. Could it be the hardness factor also?
Regards,
Luckylefty
Pearls have almost never, as far as I know, been harder, than solids. They are less elastic, which is a different chemical/physical attribute. The elasticity is what relates to the amount of surface in contact with the lane. (As far as I know) The vast majority of balls register in the 74 - 78 scale of the durometer.
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Would a rico layout work for a bowler with a bowler with a high rev rate on a dry lane condition?
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Depends on the ball...
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Impending....
Thanks for the clarification. I am recently bowling on a "Classic top hat". The results are much different.
The bowling on the 35 foot cheetah /reverse block has been a valuable learning situation.
I note and agree with Just Rico's mention of slowing down a ball earlier to cut down on quick response in the 35 to 45 foot range.
To note here is a drilling a friend has adopted for our house that has the short sparky shot inside with a reverse block feel to it outside of 10.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGh7nRW73NI Note Curlie drilling at second 18.
Regards,
Luckylefty
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Would a rico layout work for a bowler with a bowler with a high rev rate on a dry lane condition?
Personally, I see no reason to do that, unless you had a ball you wanted to test.
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The reason why most see the Cheetah as a possible reverse block is generally because with it being shorter in length, it cuts down on the perceived hold, one thinks its a reverse block. The shorter the conditio/pattern the more the optimum attack angle is farther towards the gutter or away from the pocket, as well as having the ball slow down properly.
Many perceived reactions are due to either using the wrong ball and/or in the wrong part of the lane at the wrong time.
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The 35 foot pattern on my house shot is designed to be that....a house shot.
Supposed buff to 40 feet but the 35 to 40 foot zone from 10 to 10 is Sparky (where is the buff).
After a few balls, balls sent out to 4 5 6 in the 35 to 40 foot zone are wash outs.
Dry continues to exist outside of 10 from 0 to 30 feet. I play the shot at least in the first game from 10 or 11 at the arrows out to 3 4 at my 25 to 30 foot breakpoint. With a Sonic X solid.
The ball is making a rapid beeline for the gutter at25- 30 feet unless one catches their revs. Fortunately most of the time I do and some nice high games have been the result.
Many of our top 230 average guys at other houses use plastic many days.
Just Rico Your recommendation for equipment on a 35 foot shot?
REgards,
Luckylefty
2nd strategy that works some days is bowling to the end of the pattern after the buff fills in and the shot starts to act like 40 feet (usually games 2 and 3) with something like a Tropical Heat solid polished on 2000 played 14(arrows) to 11 breakpoint. Balls throw outside of ll at the apex (35 to 40)....washout every time.
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LL a video would be worth a 1000 post. Have you ever posted one on here so we can better see what is happening?
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Good idea. I've never made one. Newer cell phone....maybe...
Might be time...
Thanks,
Luckylefty