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Just drilled a new Sidewinder. It had some scratches, so I sanded it with 360 for a bit then Rough Buff'd it. I know factory is 220 wet + Rough Buff. But I do have a quick question.
With the RB, the surface looks near polished and not to grabby. Is there a more "current" surface that would be comparable to factory?
I remember hitting it with 2000 once, but I can't remember what it did 2 years ago.
Thank you!
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Reaction-wise the 220/Rough Buff was pretty close to 2000. The grit in the Rough Buff compound gradually smoothes out the surface you put there with the 360. However, if it's going too long then you might try taking it down to the 360 again, but then try 2000 after that.
The key is to not go very long at the 2000 stage. Try maybe 30 seconds so you don't lose the "topography" that you gained with the 360. Then try the ball and see if further adjustments are desired. I hope this helps.
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Pro Shop Staff
www.brunswickbowling.com
The opinions expressed are solely those of the writer and not of Brunswick Corporation.
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Thank you...that sounds like a good way to maintain it...so do I skip the steps between 360 and 2000? Just use those two?
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Yes. Skip the steps if you want a stronger reaction.
In my experience, the more steps, the longer the ball will skid before picking up the mid lane.
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Pro Shop Staff
www.brunswickbowling.com
The opinions expressed are solely those of the writer and not of Brunswick Corporation.
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Didn't know that...thank you!
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As the Sidewinder is a low load particle ball I prefer to use scotchbrite pads to surface. 1st I use a maroon pad (~ 320 grit) and then finish with a green pad (~ 600 grit). I find that this is not too much surface for fresh THS. I love the continuation of this ball thru the pins. Need further length use a light grey pad (~ 800 grit) or white pad (~ 1200 grit) to tweak as needed.
CaptZap
Edited by captzap on 8/14/2011 at 7:30 AM