Author Topic: Can anyone explain this to me? (Read 4539 times)

Doug Sterner · « **on:** December 10, 2004, 03:59:22 AM »

In my ever-present quest for a ball to deal with our house pattern I stumbled upon an Ice Blue Power Groove in a trade deal with a fellow BR member.

Now this ball is drilled pin over the bridge and the cg stacked under. I saw this and thought..WOW!!! This ball will be great for what I want.

Here's the scenario...
basic top hat pattern with dry outside of 10 and what appears to be a swamp in the middle (on paper anyway). Now basic way to attack this is pretty simple...play just inside the edge, bump to just outside the oil and let it roll back into hte hole.

I am really comfortable with my Dirty Bomb on this shot (pin under ring, cg next to thumb, really low weighthole). I am able to stand 35ish and roll it 17 out to like 10, hit the dry and arc it back to hte pocket. But as the heads burn up the DB starts doing erratic things and I have had to do one of 2 extremes, neither of which I am real comfortable doing...more way right and play the 1st arrow so the ball has more lane to cover to get to the pocket or move and and play up the 3rd arrow with a tiny break and pray it doesn't split or ping the 10 on either shot.

So I figured this Power Groove would allow me to play a similar line but more a but more right with the feet to keep some carry.

Problem....this ball hooks a ton!!!! Why? I had to move deeper with this ball than I was playing with the Dirty Bomb. I found a nice home sliding around 38 and playing the ball over 22 out to 12 and watching the ball dive hard into the pocket. If I pushed it a hair wide it would go beak and leave me a split. I was throwing basically an up the ball release the whole night as well while wearing my Pro Wrist Glove (the red and black one) to keep from cupping my wrist.

I shot 241 with 2 outs in the first game and a 232 with 2 outs in the 3rd. Let's not discuss the middle game as there was a plethora of problems to be had that game.

Why is this ball so strong? Are we all fooling ourselves into thinking that we need the $200 balls for house conditions when a $110 out the door with inserts and slug PowerGroove will perform like this?

Opinions? Let's have 'em.....
--------------------
Doug Sterner
Doug's Pro Shop
Owego, NY
http://dougsproshop@aol.com
www.dougsproshop.net
Hide the women and children...
The Dirty Bomb cometh!!!
Now accepting VISA/MC and Discover for your purchases

Doug Sterner · « **Reply #16 on:** December 30, 2004, 10:12:44 AM »

How about this....

maybe just give up???

I mean why is it that a center has a night where 6 people were within 1 strike of honor scores and then they change the oil pattern? Does this make sense?

?

Oh well, maybe time to find a new place to bowl.....
--------------------
Doug Sterner
Doug's Pro Shop
Owego, NY
http://dougsproshop@aol.com
www.dougsproshop.net
Hide the women and children...
The Dirty Bomb cometh!!!
Now accepting VISA/MC and Discover for your purchases

stanski · « **Reply #17 on:** December 30, 2004, 01:35:38 PM »

quote:
BrunsBob:

As you already stated, the problem with the pancakes is that the market is so small. In my experience as a lower rev player I just can't afford the lack of hit I get out of a high rg pancake block, even on dry. The problem becomes that not only is the market small, it is fragmented. I think the heavier handed guys could make use of a pancake block in a mild resin ball. Us lower rev players will do better with a low rg/low flare core and a weaker shell. After experimenting some with the XXXL, the plastic ball with a stronger core, I feel the answer is in the coverstock. The XXXL with a 2 piece core is superior to a resin urethane shell and a pancake block for me.

I personally have never seen a lot of dropoff in carry with a pancake weight block. I throw both a urethane with a pancake (gold angle) and a reactive with a pancake (tornado) and find that when the lane conditions permit, these balls hit just as hard, if not harder, than anything else in my bag.

For you, doug, have you tried drilling a weak reactive, such as a sonic x pearl, pin axis or with the pin closer to the axis. I am getting a ball drilled right now for when bowling on similar conditions, and have thrown pin axis balls, and find these to react the best for situations like you are coming across. Pin over bridge seems to give the ball too much skid snap, in my experience, and if you have some more money to spare, I would try at least one weak reactive pin axis.
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stanski

Doc Hollywood · « **Reply #18 on:** December 30, 2004, 05:27:50 PM »

Doug I think the problem you have is that the inconsistency is with playing the tophat in a swing pattern.

Try having the ball come out of the tophat straight parallel to the gutters. This way you can hit the area more consistently and then just let the ball flip into the pocket. Use an up the back release 45 degrees or less.

Trying to swing on the condition will give you the problems you question about.

Smooth transition out of the oil.

Think about this....... If your car was driving down the road and you want to make a left turn at the end of the block but there was ice on the road several yards before the turn. What would give you better control? Driving with the wheels pretty straight and when get out of the ice then turning left gradually to make the turn or cranking the wheel left while still in the ice and then expect to control the violent whip when exiting the ice when the tires grab.

--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

Author Topic: Can anyone explain this to me? (Read 4539 times)

Doug Sterner

Can anyone explain this to me?

Doug Sterner

Re: Can anyone explain this to me?

stanski

Re: Can anyone explain this to me?

Doc Hollywood

Re: Can anyone explain this to me?