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Author Topic: The only true tap in bowling...  (Read 10314 times)

cland216

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The only true tap in bowling...
« on: October 17, 2006, 07:34:58 AM »
Is this a debatable subject or is it cut and dry???

I'm asking because I personally feel like it's the 8-pin.  It seems that every time I need to throw a strike in a given situation, I put all my nervousness aside and gear back and let it rip, 8-pin every time... This is what happens with my Strike Zone very often.

My Danger Zone however, i keep leaving 9-pins. I figure it's coming in too high so I go a tad bit deeper with slower speed, problem solved.

Traditionally I thought 9-pins were the true tap.


PLEASE HELP
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Juggernaut

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Re: The only true tap in bowling...
« Reply #16 on: October 22, 2006, 12:01:25 PM »
quote:
I think the 9 is the true tap. My 8's are all the case of a hair weaker reaction at the very end than usual, maybe if I throw it a touch too hard. Nines, on the other hand...the ball just drove through the pocket too hard and didn't bounce off into the 9. They're both reaction based, not angle of entry or high/light based because those aspects already have to have been perfect. Contrast this to the pocket 7-10, that's the one you float out there with no authority on the release, it holds AND reacts weakly, getting to the pocket but hitting like a marshmallow.
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 If you 8's are caused by a weaker reaction than normal, you are overthrowing a lot of your shots.  That is if you are counting on the ball to take out the 8 pin.

 If you leave the SOLID nine pin, according to everything I've ever been taught, you have over rotated the ball causing it to not deflect in the rack, or have played the ball from too steep of an entry angle.  The ball is supposed to have a small amount of deflection. On a supposed "perfect" shot, the ball contacts only the 1,3,5,and  9 pins, the rest is all pin interactions.

  As for reaction based, that is mostly correct, but you can leave a 9 pin by having too steep of an entry angle with modern equipment. The increased entry angle, coupled with the strength of the resin ball and gyroscopic cores, can cause the ball to roll right past the nine at times. The new cores increase the momentum of a ball in a certain velocity ( vectoring, I believe is the term) and the increased momentum drives the ball through the rack before it has time to respond to the increase in entry angle.

  Granted, for my scenario to work, it would have to be a bad shot to begin with ( little high maybe, or a little slower trajectory ).
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Edited on 10/22/2006 11:57 AM
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zeusjr

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Re: The only true tap in bowling...
« Reply #17 on: October 22, 2006, 01:58:14 PM »
The only true tap in bowling is the "5"PIN...  It's true...  
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HamPster

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Re: The only true tap in bowling...
« Reply #18 on: October 22, 2006, 02:32:36 PM »
I've thrown shots where I've deserved 9's before, and believe it or not, you can throw a shot where if you leave an 8, it's partly your fault.  If you come up the back of the ball too far and don't give it a chance to drive, it can flatten out through the pocket.  BUT, anytime you hit flush, you should carry the 8.  9's will happen with too much drive.
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