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Author Topic: Twisted fury surface  (Read 1658 times)

miq228

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Twisted fury surface
« on: January 04, 2008, 05:28:18 AM »
hi,
new to forum, and first post here. Haven't played bowling like ages, but just started again last week
I have twisted fury with #3 layout. Ball goes bit too long, so i sand it to 800. Now it hooks too early, so should i go back to factory surface and work from there or resurface it for 'If your Twisted Fury hooks too early: Polish your Twisted Fury with Brunswick¡¯s Factory Finish High Gloss Polish' as brunswick recommended.
here is another question, i did not see strong back-end from my twisted. is it because of layout i used? It has, but its not that strong. Looks just plain hook. Redrill and changing layout to #1 or #2 will bring strong back-end action?
thank you for any input.

 

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Re: Twisted fury surface
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2008, 02:02:34 PM »
Don't re-drill!  Chances are good you can find the right reaction by adjusting the surface to around 2000 abralon.

Surface changes will always have a bigger impact than the various layouts.  I've tried mine all over the spectrum and have yet to see a bad reaction.

With any polish on mine I need to play further outside and straighter, at around 2000 it gave me more room on the lanes, yet still finished strong.  Are you on a fresh shot with clean back ends?


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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff

miq228

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Re: Twisted fury surface
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2008, 02:24:36 PM »
thank you notclay.
I will try 2000 abralon first to see how it goes.
Sorry but what do u mean by fresh shot with clean backends? I used to play, but im not familiar with any of those fancy terms. Sorry

  • Guest
Re: Twisted fury surface
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2008, 04:11:58 PM »
Prior to applying the lane conditioner (oil) the machine will typically clean or strip the old oil off the lane. So, there's oil where it "should be" as well as dry or "friction" where it should be, too.

With today's equipment this is optimal because the oil allows for "skid" and the dry allows the ball to "grab" and to travel in the direction of it's rotation.

The main thing the bowler has to determine is how soon he needs to encounter friction for optimal carry; too soon and sometimes the ball loses energy and rolls out; too late and the ball may not make it to the pocket.

By adjusting the cover to around 2000 abralon it should start reading the friction area earlier than a polished ball, yet still retain enough energy to hit and carry.  Every bowler has different ball speed and rev rate that contribute greatly to how the ball "reads" the friction or dry area.

The surface of the ball is important because, simply put, that's what is in contact with the lane surface.  Have your pro shop watch your ball on the lane to make certain that you're taking advantage of the friction properly.  They may also be able to help you if the physical aspect of your game needs fine tuning.  Good luck.


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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff

  • Guest
Re: Twisted fury surface
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2008, 06:46:44 PM »
Bob,
I'd agree. My Smokin' was great on drier shots, but the Twisted is more versatile by far.


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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff

  • Guest
Re: Twisted fury surface
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2008, 11:01:44 AM »
2000 abralon will start the ball a little earlier. Abralon pads wear out pretty fast so try to find a newer one.


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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff

  • Guest
Re: Twisted fury surface
« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2008, 12:15:15 AM »
Box finish is 220 then rough buff. Reaction is close to 4000 abralon.




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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff