BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Columbia 300 => Topic started by: 2handedrook12 on May 17, 2015, 07:46:11 PM
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What is the difference between a Yellow Dot Bleeder and a Yellow Dot? Would it work as a spare ball?
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A "bleeder" is the same model of ball as the other one, but for some reason has the resins in the coverstock "bleed" out through the cover.
It gives the ball a stronger reaction than a non-bleeder ball.
The "bleeder" balls were much desired back in the day.................
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The fabled bleeder. I remember it well. For years there have been a lot of theories
suggested in an effort to explain what actually happened and if in fact, such a thing actually existed at that time. I drilled a lot of Yellow Dots back then. For a long time,
it was the hottest ball on the market--Columbia's answer to the soaker revolution .
The Yellow Dot's predecessor was Columbia's Shur D Pro. Both, the Shur D Pro and Yellow Dot derived their extraordinary hook power from the fact that Columbia developed a softer (polyester) shell that was used on both balls. "Extraordinary hook power" in those days was nothing compared to the hooking power of today's balls, but back then, they were for a time, the "hooking-est balls" made.
Shortly after the Shur D Pro hit the market, the ABC (now the USBC), established
for the first time a minimum ball (shell) hardness rule. For sanctioned league/tournament purposes, the minimum hardness was "72" on the hardness scale. For PBA competition, it was "75". The Columbia Shur D Pro usually averaged
around 65 or so, making its shell softer than the 72 minimum. For this reason, the Shur D Pro could no longer be used in sanctioned competition. For this, Columbia answered with the Yellow Dot--which averaged approximately 77-79 on the scale.
After a while, there arose a batch of Yellow Dots that seemed to hook a little more
than previous (batches). These became known as the legendary "bleeders" that
have been talked about for years.
It was theorized at the time that the reason these balls had slightly more "hook" than previous balls was because these balls actually leaked or "bled" resin from their shells. In fact, this is still the predominant theory some 40 years later.
Now, there
indeed might have been something factual behind this theory, but I was never convinced that the reason for their extra hooking power was due to this. Back then, what I did learn was that some of the Yellow Dots coming out of Columbia's old San Antonio plant actually measured closer to "75" on the durometer scale, instead of
the average 77-79 like most of the others. I saw this for myself. Consequently, it is my belief that the reason for the bleeders' better performance might have actually been due to the fact that their shells were softer, and not due to resin bleed. The increased
performance was miniscule at best, to be sure. There were still others who always believed that the fabled bleeder was actually a myth that really never existed to begin with.
The debate goes on.
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The beloved Yellow Dot -- I owned a 9R series -- helped me get through school. I could use it virtually on any condition, save for a long pattern or one with slightly higher volume. Then that's when having an LT-48 came handy.
I hated the day when its shell started cracking; it was a quick death for that ball.
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If I am not mistaken, the Shur D Pro was a Brunswick ball.
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If I am not mistaken, the Shur D Pro was a Brunswick ball.
I thought it was Columbia.
Edited to add:
It was.
http://www.columbia300.com/products/balls/retired-balls/sur-d-pro
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I remember both my "O" and "P " series bleeders came out of the box almost a deep red pearl. Over time the color changed to deep solid burgundy. Won't dispute the durometer reads stated above but if we didn't turn the display ball every so often the ball cup would leave an impression in the ball. Had one in the closet for years. When I pulled it out the plastic bag and the ball had fused together.
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Can someone tell me if my Yellow Dot is/was a bleeder?
Either way, I love the ball! I am ready to throw my Taboo Spare away lol
7S60773
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Sorry to inform you.Yours is not a bleeder. If it was 9R and after it would have most likely been a bleeder. I had the "OP" series when I bowled in junior. Shot my first meaningful 300 game with it when I was 12. That was during the days when someone actually came to certify honor scores. Not the blanket cert now a days.
Check out the garage sales. You might get lucky and find a Bonanza "9R" or "OP" series ball. My team mates Dad bought him a bunch of Bonanza "9R"s. He could crank the crap off that ball. Ya. I'll be 50 next summer.
Good luck finding a decent cover on a nearly 40 year old ball
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That's fine. My Yellow Dot is still very valuable to me. I don't mind it isn't one.
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I know where there is one in the box undrilled.
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I recently obtained a 14lb single drill Bleeder from reconditionedbowlingball.com
Ron Machniak of www.precisionbowlingproshop.com found it for me.
The Serial Number (4V01159) places it as a 1984 Bleeder.
The ball arrived in lovely condition and has turned almost totally black from bleeding.
Durometer measures the hardness at 77.
I am a 1940's style Classic Full Roller.
Ron recommended a special layout for this ball.
CG placed 2 1/4" past my PAP.
The goal is to play this ball from the outside, down and in, and have it roll up in the back hard.
Of course with my lower rev rate (110 rpms) I don't get the traction higher rev players do. So with a vintage ball like the Bleeder I need to play it on lower volume.
This last Tuesday in a local tournament I was using my Crow urethane at 1000 grit with a length layout up 8 board.
I was getting mixed results and not doing well.
My high game so far in the set was a 177.
Since it looked like I had lost, I pulled out the Bleeder for fun.
I kept my target up 8 board but moved my feet two right.
First shot went Brooklyn!
But I kinda expected that since the Bleeder came right out of the bag with no oil on it.
It came back on the return drenched and I wiped it down.
Next shot I had hold and length and then bingo!
The Bleeder rolled hard left like a modest pearl resin ball.
I began to strike.
I was clean all the way to the 10th, but on the first frame the Bleeder did not roll up anymore and left the 4-5-7 split.
I tried for it and nailed the 4-5 uprights but the 4 did not get the 7 on the kick back.
Nevertheless closed with a 204, my high game for the night on a tough pattern.
While the Bleeder had traction it was simply amazing.
I could just aim it and it would go straight like a guided missile and then turn left and whack the pins a real good one!
Because of my low revs and low ball speed I never get messengers, but on one shot I got the head pin to do a Belmo thing and shoot across to the 10 pin which got blown out a split second before by the 6 pin!
Wow, I never get pin action like that.
The Bleeder hits super hard on the right condition.
Below is a pic of the ball after 3 games only.
You can see that the ball tracks up easily due to its softness.
Ron says this is a good thing as the tracking will make it stronger.
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Here is a pic of the Bleeder before I put any games on it.
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My 1981 bleeder is sitting on the ball rack in my basement. I walked by it this summer and stuff was oozing out of the finger holes and running down the side of the balls.
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My 1981 bleeder is sitting on the ball rack in my basement. I walked by it this summer and stuff was oozing out of the finger holes and running down the side of the balls.
Nice! Post a pic please.
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Below is a video of me throwing my "Bleeder."
My release specs are:
-Full Roller
-Zero tilt
-110 rpms
-90 degree axis rotation
-Slow Ball Speed (12-13 mph off my hand)
The Bleeder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xMIhYN5S78