BallReviews
General Category => Coverstock Preparation => Topic started by: 2handedrook12 on January 26, 2014, 08:54:15 AM
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On some of the reviews about boeling balls, they say stuff about sanding the "back rings" and I also hear about sanding a ball in a different pattern increases friction. How does this work? I am totally lost.
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Sanding the back rings only is not legal in USBC competition, the entire ball must be sanded the same. Check the link below for information about other sanding techniques. -- JohnP
http://www.jayhawkbowling.com/Pro_s_Corner/Resurfacing_Tips/resurfacing.html
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One way of legally attempting to mimic the "sanding the back flares only" would be to only use a gel type of ball cleaner in the area of the back flares. This tip appears on an old bottle of Clean and Dull I have...
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That's why I am confused. Too many legal issues with that regard. But what about danding in a certain direction?
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That's why I am confused. Too many legal issues with that regard. But what about danding in a certain direction?
I really don't think there is a reason to continue these "old school" methods in the modern bowling environment.
Synthetic lanes are harder than wood, lane oil seem to be "slicker" and there is more of it on the lane because coverstocks are far more aggressive than they ever were in the past.
Keep things simple and easy to repeat...
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Grit lines perpendicular to the initial track = earlier read in the heads with a smoother back end.
Grit lines parallel to the initial track = less read in the front, with a stronger move in the back.
Crosshatch (both of the methods above) most aggressive overall.
You can also try to put the bow tie of the flare straight up in the spinner and then flip it for a different reaction.
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Grit lines perpendicular to the initial track = earlier read in the heads with a smoother back end.
Grit lines parallel to the initial track = less read in the front, with a stronger move in the back.
Crosshatch (both of the methods above) most aggressive overall.
You can also try to put the bow tie of the flare straight up in the spinner and then flip it for a different reaction.
+1
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Also, allow me to amend my post. This works most effectively with balls that flare a bunch. The less it flares, the more prevalent the first trait will be, due to the ball not flaring enough to fully exploit the benefit of changing the direction of the sanding lines.
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Grit lines perpendicular to the initial track = earlier read in the heads with a smoother back end.
Grit lines parallel to the initial track = less read in the front, with a stronger move in the back.
Crosshatch (both of the methods above) most aggressive overall.
You can also try to put the bow tie of the flare straight up in the spinner and then flip it for a different reaction.
+2
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My question in regards to legal or illegal is this, who will enforce it?
Even if you shoot an honor score they typically give the bowler the form to fill out. Look how many balls are found illegal at nationals and given back as is for continued use in legue and tournaments.
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I've had an Innovative spinner for a couple of years and now I feel more ignorant than ever. I've been using the method outlined here: http://www.donkee.com/Images/tippict.jpg
Would this be considered cross hatch?
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Thats my preferred method to use.
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For me, crosshatch is top, bottom, side, side. I always felt that 6 sides was a bit of overkill.
I need a spinner. My surfaceprep-fu is out of practice.
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My question in regards to legal or illegal is this, who will enforce it?
Even if you shoot an honor score they typically give the bowler the form to fill out. Look how many balls are found illegal at nationals and given back as is for continued use in legue and tournaments.
Honestly, probably no one. Things like this have to rely on the honor of the bowler. -- JohnP
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That applies to the vast majority pf USBC rules when applied to equipment. Includding unapproved balls.
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Grit lines perpendicular to the initial track = earlier read in the heads with a smoother back end.
Grit lines parallel to the initial track = less read in the front, with a stronger move in the back.
Crosshatch (both of the methods above) most aggressive overall.
You can also try to put the bow tie of the flare straight up in the spinner and then flip it for a different reaction.
If you are supposed to sand either 4 or six sides, doesn't this always leave a cross hatch pattern? What method do you use to get the sanding lines either perpendicular or parallel to the flare rings, and how many sides are you sanding?