I just received a new Roto-Grip Hetic. While I was installing new grips and thinking of what surface to start with. For me, I always change the surface on new balls so I can recreate the ball surface at home. While debating a starting point, I remembered an old post from the frequently asked questions list. Below is a brief excerpt from the Roto-Grip response to one of our members on how to approximate their factory finish on 1500 grit polished balls

“For polished balls, reproduce the 360 and 500 grit finish and then apply Storm Step 2 Finishing Compound. This is the exact same finishing compound we use on all of our 1500 grit polished balls. The trick to the polish application is to use less polish and very light pressure. Step 2 Finishing Compound has a resurfacing medium in it that sands the ball while it is being polished over-application of the compound will effectively destroy the same surface deviations that originally gave the ball its strong out of box finish.”
 
If I Followed the above steps I would leave a ball shiny with significant surface score lines that would be obvious to the necked eye. Out of box 1500 grit polished balls are smooth as a prom queen’s thighs. There would be no way to recreate the box finish without leaning long and hard on Storm’s Step 2 Finishing Compound to the point that the 360 and 500 grit scoring would be totally removed. I have looked at the box finish on the ball through major magnification and can’t see any score lines at all. 

I guess until I figure out what I’m missing in the process, I will continue to alter out of box surfaces to a finish I can recreate. By best guess is around 4000 with a light coat of polish.

Below is a brief excerpt from the Roto-Grip response to one of our members on how to approximate their factory finish on 1500 grit polished balls

“For polished balls, reproduce the 360 and 500 grit finish and then apply Storm Step 2 Finishing Compound. This is the exact same finishing compound we use on all of our 1500 grit polished balls. The trick to the polish application is to use less polish and very light pressure. Step 2 Finishing Compound has a resurfacing medium in it that sands the ball while it is being polished over-application of the compound will effectively destroy the same surface deviations that originally gave the ball its strong out of box finish.”

That excerpt is from the old Scotch-brite VS Abralon letter (From 6-7 years ago). That's not how they recommend doing the steps for the 1500 polished surface now.

This is the current method:

1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.

Note these steps don't really get you the OOB surface, just maybe close.

Your better off forgetting about the OOB, it's basically impossible to match the OOB surface. If you had a ball scanner then you could probably match it, by finding the right combo of grits.


Take a look at my bowlers grit chart for more info

http://home.earthlink.net/~litefrozen/downloads/bowling_grit_chart_v2.pdf

Thanks guys for the up to date information. I knew that technique described in the letter had some major flaws. Hell, with that much surface left on a ball you could bowl on lanes covered in 30 weight motor oil.