BallReviews
General Category => Coverstock Preparation => Topic started by: JohnN on February 07, 2017, 12:02:37 PM
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What is the lowest grit you would use on a non-polished ball ?
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What is the lowest grit you would use on a non-polished ball ?
I would imagine anything less than a 1000 grit FEPA is going to do a lot of damage to the lane surface, even with a lot of oil.
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What is the lowest grit you would use on a non-polished ball ?
I would imagine anything less than a 1000 grit FEPA is going to do a lot of damage to the lane surface, even with a lot of oil.
Yup!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^What the "Old Vet" with the new handle said! ;)
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For me, it would be 1000 grit.
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Using Abralon pads, I will go as low as 500.
Currently, the lowest grit in my arsenal is a 500/1000 surface on an Alpha Crux that does not see house shots.
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I have experimented with grits and for certain tournaments that typically have very heavy oil or reverse block type appearance for me, I have gone very low.....150 grit, 120, 100, 80, 60 , 40, 24, and 12.......Although at 12 grit didn't have much success.....when I put my midnight scorcher to 12 a number of years ago--back when it had just a standard drilling on it, it would exit the out of bounds but just roll out and go straight to the 2 pin(lefty). The one big money tournament I was blessed enough to win----the 2010 U.B.A. Memorial Day Classic , I won the 10,000 first place prize money using a Brunswick dry zone solid on my first ball at 24 grit--not a typo 24 grit. Lately...at least since I discovered the 320 degree hook set drilling, I have found that I can get a similar aggressive move in the oil while being able to go a little bit higher in the grit level on any particular ball.
Brad
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I have experimented with grits and for certain tournaments that typically have very heavy oil or reverse block type appearance for me, I have gone very low.....150 grit, 120, 100, 80, 60 , 40, 24, and 12.......Although at 12 grit didn't have much success.....when I put my midnight scorcher to 12 a number of years ago--back when it had just a standard drilling on it, it would exit the out of bounds but just roll out and go straight to the 2 pin(lefty). The one big money tournament I was blessed enough to win----the 2010 U.B.A. Memorial Day Classic , I won the 10,000 first place prize money using a Brunswick dry zone solid on my first ball at 24 grit--not a typo 24 grit. Lately...at least since I discovered the 320 degree hook set drilling, I have found that I can get a similar aggressive move in the oil while being able to go a little bit higher in the grit level on any particular ball.
Brad
24 grit holy cow :o
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it actually worked that weekend......The dry zone solid is a dry lanes ball...but with that rough a grit I was able to play in the oil/oob around the 1st arrow...and if I pulled it, it went right past the 1-2 pocket(lefty) and went straight for the 1-3 pocket for a Brooklyn strike, no dead center splits at all. If I missed a little left the gritty cover didn't leave me any "weird" unmake-able spares. For that situation it indeed worked.
Brad
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I have experimented with grits and for certain tournaments that typically have very heavy oil or reverse block type appearance for me, I have gone very low.....150 grit, 120, 100, 80, 60 , 40, 24, and 12.......Although at 12 grit didn't have much success.....when I put my midnight scorcher to 12 a number of years ago--back when it had just a standard drilling on it, it would exit the out of bounds but just roll out and go straight to the 2 pin(lefty). The one big money tournament I was blessed enough to win----the 2010 U.B.A. Memorial Day Classic , I won the 10,000 first place prize money using a Brunswick dry zone solid on my first ball at 24 grit--not a typo 24 grit. Lately...at least since I discovered the 320 degree hook set drilling, I have found that I can get a similar aggressive move in the oil while being able to go a little bit higher in the grit level on any particular ball.
Brad
This is ridiculous.
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Have never seen grit that low before. Lowest grit wet dry paper I've seen was 80.
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An oil pattern is simply a puzzle, and because bowlers are all different, there can be multiple solutions to this puzzle...the solution for one may not be the solution for another. I'd bowl between my legs and backwards if I thought it would win me $10,000. One thing that Earl Anthony said in his book that I had years ago...might have been :super bowling" , forget the title but he said "are we playing how, or how many?"
Brad
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I've sanded to 220 before and the ball surface looked scarred not sure how much good that does for ball reaction.
12 grit! wow next step is to sand with a metal file.
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I've sanded to 220 before and the ball surface looked scarred not sure how much good that does for ball reaction.
12 grit! wow next step is to sand with a metal file.
A metal file wouldn't even do that much damage. Maybe a wood rasp would.
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I have experimented with grits and for certain tournaments that typically have very heavy oil or reverse block type appearance for me, I have gone very low.....150 grit, 120, 100, 80, 60 , 40, 24, and 12.......Although at 12 grit didn't have much success.....when I put my midnight scorcher to 12 a number of years ago--back when it had just a standard drilling on it, it would exit the out of bounds but just roll out and go straight to the 2 pin(lefty). The one big money tournament I was blessed enough to win----the 2010 U.B.A. Memorial Day Classic , I won the 10,000 first place prize money using a Brunswick dry zone solid on my first ball at 24 grit--not a typo 24 grit. Lately...at least since I discovered the 320 degree hook set drilling, I have found that I can get a similar aggressive move in the oil while being able to go a little bit higher in the grit level on any particular ball.
Brad
This is ridiculous.
#parkinglotgrit
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What does a ball at 12 or 24 grit look like?
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A metal file wouldn't even do that much damage. Maybe a wood rasp would.
24-12 grit that's about a wood rasp or like a sanding disk for a floor sander.
Your basically sanding the ball with a handful of gravel.
Back in the days of urethane, I've only seen 1 or 2 balls sanded at 80 grit. The guys that did it only used them for totally flooded lanes, just to strip some oil off.
About the lowest factory grit I saw was a US 220grit.
Anything lower than that was just for when you resurfacing a ball to get rid of scratches etc. not a final surface.
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I call B.S. on using 12 grit. I cannot imagine why this would even be an option.
Here is what 12 grit looks like next to 36 grit:
(https://static1.squarespace.com/static/54321700e4b0f569a2404962/t/547e9028e4b01c4bf3c4ab25/1417580584640/12-next-to-36.jpg?format=750w)
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ok, I'm going to step in it for this, but here goes....
I have two thoughts...
1. You are physically damaging the surface for everyone else who follows.
2. Being candid, and as a lefty who hates the massive floods I see, if the only shot you can bring to a tournament is 12 grit, I'm going to throw the bull shirt flag... There has to be another choice.
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What does a ball at 12 or 24 grit look like?
Ever seen charcoal?
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for those with a 2 speed spinner do you use 12 grit on low or high? 8)
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for those with a 2 speed spinner do you use 12 grit on low or high? 8)
Always on high!!!
On low, one of the 4 rocks on the paper gets stuck in the thumb hole. On high, it is able to blast through and provide a decent bevel.
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12 grit = immediate loss of any credibility.
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12 grit = immediate loss of any credibility.
So 4 grit would totally be out of the question? ;D
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12 grit = immediate loss of any credibility.
So 4 grit would totally be out of the question? ;D
At 120 you should just quit. The left side is easy anyways!
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If I was managing the center the "12 grit" ball was used at I wouldve asked you to leave.
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At that low of grit the sanding lines are quite noticeable. It was just something I tried a couple of times (the 12 grit I mean) ..but obviously it wasn't effective, which is why I have not done that since. Actually the past few years I haven't used a ball at those low grits at any tournaments simply because It wasn't necessary. I have never been against experimenting with different surfaces and drillings.
Brad
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Never seen a ball that wrecked the shim just by looking at the lane...
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Might as well use the point of a bevel knife and turn it on the spinner
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At that low of grit the sanding lines are quite noticeable. It was just something I tried a couple of times (the 12 grit I mean) ..but obviously it wasn't effective, which is why I have not done that since. Actually the past few years I haven't used a ball at those low grits at any tournaments simply because It wasn't necessary. I have never been against experimenting with different surfaces and drillings.
Brad
I'm curious as to the thought process of looking at 12 grit sand paper and deciding it would be good to use on a bowling ball.
How does one come to that conclusion?
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That was before I re-drilled one of my midnight scorchers with a 320 hook set drilling..love that ball on oil. It was a progression....the specific group of tournaments I had used that on..typically has 2 different patterns they use.....mainly they use I believe it is a "modified chameleon" pattern..although it always plays like a reverse block for me, and sometimes they use a long heavy flat pattern. I don't really move further inside on the lane and throw it out to just inside the oob and see it come back into the pocket..I don't generate enough natural recovery with my release for that to be a viable option for me. I do square up and play down and in....However on that particular pattern I couldn't play a straight up the 2nd arrow shot on it like I was doing in league back then...most everything would be too much on the backend and wouldn't hold pocket...balls like my lane #1 bullet, that I use for a spare ball, would hold pocket playing that 2nd arrow line but wouldn't finish. However I did find success with my midnight scorchers playing in the heavier OOB oil...at some tournaments or days of the same tournament the outside oil was heavier than other times , but for most people unplayable.....I kept going down in grit with one trying to see if I could get the ball to exit the oob without having to "baby" it..eventually I tried a 12 grit pad--it wasn't sandpaper, I found 12 grit pads online(fairly flexible, but not as much so as abralon & such) ...and at that grit with just a normal pin just outside of the ring finger drilling I could play straight up the oob and the ball would exit the oil but would roll out soo quickly that I would squarely hit the 2-4..was hoping before I threw shots with it that it would not only exit the oil , but make it to the 1-3 pocket. Didn't happen so I abandoned that experiment.
I really do like the 320 degree hook set drilling I found online a couple years ago..because I can get a violent move in the oil or oil handling if you will similar to how I would with the lower grits I used with the old drilling , but without having to go soo quite so rough in grits.
Brad
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This is great!! Don't let anyone stop you from playing second arrow, even if you burn the center down with abrasive equipment.
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This is great!! Don't let anyone stop you from playing second arrow, even if you burn the center down with abrasive equipment.
I just laughed out loud in the middle of the Huntley Walmart. Thanks, northface!
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Actually I couldn't play the 2nd arrow effectively, which is why I moved outside between the gutter and first arrow where the oob is with rougher/more aggressive equipment. I am stubborn, but I my stubbornness has it's limits.
Brad
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360 is the dullest that I have ever used with any success and that was on 30mls+