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Author Topic: Polish on Abralon Pad  (Read 7958 times)

agroves

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Polish on Abralon Pad
« on: February 06, 2008, 05:28:06 PM »
I tried this on my Mystic tonight.  I took a 2000 Grit Abralon pad and put some polish on it.  Then applied a small amount of aqua and sanolished my Mystic.

It seemed like I was able to duplicate the OOB reaction that I was looking for.  I tried sanding to 2000 then polishing, but it went much further down lane that the OOB condition.  

I got the idea from a buddy, who said some ball rep at a High roller told him to try it.

Thoughts?

Andrew

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charlest

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Re: Polish on Abralon Pad
« Reply #16 on: February 10, 2008, 02:51:43 PM »
quote:
quote:
I have heard of many people using the White nylon pad for several purposes BECAUSE it is virtually a NON-abrasive.


Actually charlest I disagree, I bought some of these just to try them out so I could get something between 1000 and 2000 abralon. http://www.specialtytools.com/product_info.php?products_id=5235Seems to be the ticket, by the sheen I see on the ball. Shinier than 1000 but not the 2000.
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I did say, "virtually". I have stopped several spinners before I got a white pad to bite into a bowling ball coverstock. I really don't want to do that. I have blue nylon pads that take some pressure and I can get betetr results, easier with them.

If you got some results, all well and good. More power to you. I have personally found them not useful to me. YMMV.

Trimman wrote:
quote:

Brick it is possible, but I doubt it. I have both, feels the same to me. BTW they are located in Jax. Is it possible I could have gone there too? Neat place. Remember I'm trim carpenter by trade.


I have tried the white pad as finishing medium for appyling varnish/urethane on some small wood projects. works in the general manner of 0000 wool. I suppose its safer when using water-based finishes because there's no steel to rust.

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Edited on 2/10/2008 3:54 PM
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charlest

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Re: Polish on Abralon Pad
« Reply #17 on: February 10, 2008, 02:57:32 PM »
quote:

Also tell me where charlest says scotch brite in his post, Star does but not charlest.
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For reference sake, I always mean Scotch-Brite, when I say nylon pad. I just can't be bothered writing it out every time (very bad typist). Maybe I should just put "SB" before the words "nylon pad" in the future. I only use one non-3M nylon pad and I never reference it here on ballreviews.
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onlybowling

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Re: Polish on Abralon Pad
« Reply #18 on: February 10, 2008, 06:42:37 PM »
While ruminating about the above posts it occurred to me that ball makers finish balls in the most cost effective manner; the fewer the steps the cheaper.  It seems reasonable that polish would be applied during the final sanding.  And the reason most polishes contain grit is to allow the final finish to be applied as early in the process as possible - with precision time and pressure.

It seems to me that the best chance for the home refinisher to duplicate the factory finish is to use the manufacturers suggested starting grit while applying the manufacturers suggested factory finish.    




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Brickguy221

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Re: Polish on Abralon Pad
« Reply #19 on: February 10, 2008, 08:51:45 PM »
quote:
It seems to me that the best chance for the home refinisher to duplicate the factory finish is to use the manufacturers suggested starting grit while applying the manufacturers suggested factory finish.




 


onlybowling, some of us do this. For some people, the balls work great right out of the box whereas for others they don't and have to have the surfaces adjusted. The NIB finish doesn't always work for every one and some people have to sand and polish the balls to a grit different than the factory finish.
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onlybowling

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Re: Polish on Abralon Pad
« Reply #20 on: February 18, 2008, 08:40:10 AM »
Tried the polish application technique using paper and nylon pad.  Used Columbia degree shine because I still have some.  The application was buffed until dry, with cotton terry, as directed on the bottle

Ball 1. Refreshed 1500 polished surface with 1500 grit paper then applied polish to 2000 grit paper that had soaked in water for a week.  Did 6 sides.  The result looked and felt like a 2000 polished factory finish from the Columbia factory.

Ball 2.  Began with a fresh 800 grit wet sand then applied polish to a moist, not  dripping wet,  white scotch brite.  Did 6 sides.  The result was a higher shine than the 2000 grit polish that is tackier.

I have found that the gray pad + water - takes the ball to the 800 grit neighborhood.  The white pad + water - takes the ball to the 1200 grit neighborhood.  The white pad result is less specific than the gray pad, unless the pad is brand new.  The gray pad maintains its' grit longer than the white pad.  Either pad + water + joy dish soap or clean and dull produces a sheen finish.  Of course, the white pad, being a finer grit, produces a higher sheen.  The more Joy or clean and dull used the higher the sheen.  I do not continually wet the pad after I have applied clean and dull.  I rinse the ball at the completion of each side.  I wet the fresh side.  An additional amount of clean and dull is applied to the pad to approximate what was lost on the previous side.  The clean and dull produces a fine foam which prevents full abrasive contact.  The more sides done, the higher the sheen.  

The ball polish also prevents full abrasive contact when using the white pad.  A higher shine is developed with each full turn of the ball.  I did not wet the balls during polish application.  I did rinse the paper between sides.  I did not rinse the nylon pad between sides.  I did add polish.  Perhaps, if I had rinsed the pad free of polish and started each side with a relatively clean pad I would have a duller finish on ball 2.
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