Author Topic: The coverstock prep shuffle... (Read 3551 times)

J_Mac · « **on:** November 27, 2006, 10:10:01 AM »

How does Turtle Wax's red rubbing compound compare to Rough Buff? 2000 or 4000 grit abralon?

Recently bought a spinner and I'm trying to get a decent idea of how all of these things compare without going through the hassle and testing them myself.

I would imagine that the red rubbing compound does a better job of removing sanding lines than the finer grits of abralon do, but I'd like some knowledgeable feedback.
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

J_Mac · « **Reply #1 on:** November 27, 2006, 08:47:19 PM »

ttt
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

J_Mac · « **Reply #2 on:** November 27, 2006, 08:59:29 PM »

quote:
Turtle Wax is not made for bowling balls and will clog the "pores" of a reactive ball, killing the reaction. Only use Turtle Wax on a plastic ball you're trying to prevent from moving at all. I use the "hard shell" polish on my Lane #1 XXXL with good results.

Turtle Wax is the brand name... the Rubbing Compound(red) and Polishing Compound(white) contain no waxes.
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

302efi · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2006, 05:13:55 PM »

J Mac I asked this question before...The search is your friend

Actually all you had to do is scroll down...but if your too lazy ...Heres the link:

http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=135663&ForumID=17&CategoryID=5
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Roto-Grip & Lane #1

When faced with a difficult situation, Jesus asks himself, "What would Chuck Norris do?"

Robo-Arm bowlers SUCK...

J_Mac · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2006, 05:18:23 PM »

quote:
J Mac I asked this question before...The search is your friend

Actually all you had to do is scroll down...but if your too lazy ...Heres the link:

http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=135663&ForumID=17&CategoryID=5
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I DID search... but my inquiry is a horse of another color.
--------------------
"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2006, 06:20:51 PM »

quote:
quote:
Turtle Wax is not made for bowling balls and will clog the "pores" of a reactive ball, killing the reaction. Only use Turtle Wax on a plastic ball you're trying to prevent from moving at all. I use the "hard shell" polish on my Lane #1 XXXL with good results.

Turtle Wax is the brand name... the Rubbing Compound(red) and Polishing Compound(white) contain no waxes.
--------------------
"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

twoheadedboy,

I have to agree with J-Mac on this subject. Yes. Turtle Wax's car wax will clog a ball's pores. Turtle Wax's Rubbing compound, at least, most of them, will not. It's an abrasive plus a little bit of polish.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

charlest · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2006, 06:31:42 PM »

Rubbing compound is not the same as Rough Buff, AFAIHL.

Rubbingcompound has an abrasive in it and was at the time of the Danger Zone, recommended by Brunswick to restore the DZ to (as close to) its factory finish as was possible. I'd have to look at some old Brunswick documentation, but I'me fairly positive that you sanded the DZ to 600 grit, then applied rubbing compound (probably 3M band). It woudl smooth out the sanding lines PLUS put a light gloss polsih on it. The DZ was skid/flippy (actually hook and set).

Rough Buff has abrasive in it also. Stock finish for several B'wick balls are 200 grit sanding Plus RB. RB must have a lot of abrasive in it to smooth 220 grit lines plus finish the ball to about 1000 grit with what is termed a compound finish, which is halfway between "is that ball sanded" or "is it polished?" Neither! BUT REMEMEBR: if yo usand it finer than 220 grit (400, 600 or 1000 grit), then the RB application will make it finer than the 1000 grit that RB transforms the 220 grit into.

2000 grit and 4000 grit abralon both leave the ball with a matte (non-polished) finish.

Rubbing compound seems, to my eyes, to leave a glossier polish than rough buff will. But it's not a true "GLOSS" polish.

The Rough Buff finish will hook sooner than a rubbign compound finish, IN GENERAL.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

J_Mac · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2006, 07:37:14 PM »

quote:
Rubbing compound is not the same as Rough Buff, AFAIHL.

Rubbingcompound has an abrasive in it and was at the time of the Danger Zone, recommended by Brunswick to restore the DZ to (as close to) its factory finish as was possible. I'd have to look at some old Brunswick documentation, but I'me fairly positive that you sanded the DZ to 600 grit, then applied rubbing compound (probably 3M band). It woudl smooth out the sanding lines PLUS put a light gloss polsih on it. The DZ was skid/flippy (actually hook and set).

Rough Buff has abrasive in it also. Stock finish for several B'wick balls are 200 grit sanding Plus RB. RB must have a lot of abrasive in it to smooth 220 grit lines plus finish the ball to about 1000 grit with what is termed a compound finish, which is halfway between "is that ball sanded" or "is it polished?" Neither! BUT REMEMEBR: if yo usand it finer than 220 grit (400, 600 or 1000 grit), then the RB application will make it finer than the 1000 grit that RB transforms the 220 grit into.

2000 grit and 4000 grit abralon both leave the ball with a matte (non-polished) finish.

Rubbing compound seems, to my eyes, to leave a glossier polish than rough buff will. But it's not a true "GLOSS" polish.

The Rough Buff finish will hook sooner than a rubbign compound finish, IN GENERAL.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Thank you, and as always, your mileage may vary.
--------------------
"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

Wallshot · « **Reply #8 on:** November 28, 2006, 08:07:16 PM »

I have used the Turtle Wax rubbing compund and polish with good results on my spinner (checked with my driller first to make sure these were acceptable formulations for bowling balls). I don't use these products very often but on the few balls I have used them on there was no apparent ill effects (such as pore clogging) to the surface. The great thing is both these products are dirt cheap (under $2 as I recall).

tekneek · « **Reply #9 on:** December 06, 2006, 07:39:40 AM »

the mileage you get is indirectly related to the tire pressure as well as the wear and tear produced by the muffler bearings.
--------------------
Steve
Leading Edge Pro Shop
512-755-2947
e-mail tekneek@281.com

www.dynothane.com
D/T Customer Service 1-877-828-7177
Use option #1.

Capt Ramius "Vasili, give me one ping, and one ping only"

302efi · « **Reply #10 on:** December 08, 2006, 02:38:44 AM »

quote:

...as well as the wear and tear produced by the muffler bearings.

Don't forget about the leakage of blinker fluid.

--------------------
Roto-Grip & Lane #1

When faced with a difficult situation, Jesus asks himself, "What would Chuck Norris do?"

Robo-Arm bowlers SUCK...

Author Topic: The coverstock prep shuffle... (Read 3551 times)

J_Mac

The coverstock prep shuffle...

J_Mac

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J_Mac

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302efi

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J_Mac

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charlest

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charlest

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J_Mac

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Wallshot

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tekneek

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302efi

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