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Author Topic: Rough Buff  (Read 3678 times)

TheProphet

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Rough Buff
« on: January 26, 2007, 12:29:49 AM »
Does rough buff work too well without a spinner? If it does whats the best way to get most use of of it with no spinner... thanks

 

mogators

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2007, 09:50:41 PM »
I tried it once without a spinner and all I got was a sore arm.  I have since bought a spinner and am loving it.
Current Equipment
Alpha Jackal
Jackal Flash
Primal Shock
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charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2007, 08:13:47 AM »
quote:
Does rough buff work too well without a spinner? If it does whats the best way to get most use of of it with no spinner... thanks


There are very, VERY few polishes designed to be used without a spinner. Even then results will never be close to what a spinner can do in almost seconds, versus HOURS by hand. I know this from experience as I tried to change surfaces, polish and re-surface balls without a spinner.

If you can't afford one right now, I'd suggest 2 things.
1. Ask the local pro shop to use one or to show you how to use one.
2. If you're really serious about bowling, do not buy your next 2 new balls and save up to buy a Vertex spinner and associated supplies.

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Sir Bowl-A-Lot

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2007, 06:37:39 AM »
Approx. what grit does Rough Buff leave your surface at?
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dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2007, 01:55:56 AM »
quote:
Approx. what grit does Rough Buff leave your surface at?


I overheard that it is supposed to be the equivalent of 4.000 grit Abralon - but IMHO it is quite different, since an Abralon finish leaves the ball surface bare with more grip potential, while the Rough Buff compound smoothes out the surface and uses some polish-like substance to even out the coarser base. Rough Buff really seems to need a coarse grit base finish - I tried it on a 600 grit surface on my Shock & Awe, and the ball slipped as if it had been polished, no grip in oil at all.
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Sir Bowl-A-Lot

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2007, 08:11:12 AM »
quote:
Rough Buff really seems to need a coarse grit base finish - I tried it on a 600 grit surface on my Shock & Awe, and the ball slipped as if it had been polished, no grip in oil at all.

Yeah, I believe Big B suggests that you sand the ball down to 220 prior to using Rough Buff.
--------------------
My 06-07 Arsenal:
  • *Coming Soon* FURY

  • Vendetta Maxx (box finish, label lev) = Heavy/Medium to Medium

  • Cobalt Bomb Solid (box finish, 4 x 3.5) = Medium/Heavy to Medium

  • Agent (box finish, stacked lev) = Medium

  • DOOM (box finish, label lev) = Medium to Medium/Light

  • Power Groove Dry/R (box finish, 5 x 4.5) = Light/Medium to Light

  • Red XXXL (box finish, label lev) = Dry

dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2007, 08:17:54 AM »
220 is correct - and I have the impression, that you need it with Rough Buff. A finer grit, and the stuff almost works like polish?
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
Wacky style video (Oct. '06)
"Put some make-up on your face -  Make this world a better place!" Kahimi Karie, 'Good morning world'
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charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2007, 08:45:58 AM »
rough buff:

Brunswick starts and recommends starting with a 200 grit sanded ball. RB will smooth it out CONSIDERABLY and when finished, as they do, you wind up with what many call a compound finish. I'd guess it was the equivalent of a 1000 grit polish. If it looks neither like a dull ball for a polished ball, then you stopped the application of RB at the same point that Brunswick does.

BrunsRich, a Brunswick rep, has said that the above is ROUGHLY equivalent (NOT identical) to a 2000 grit matte/dull sanding.

HOWEVER, RB's instructions say that if you need more length, you can start at a higher grit, like 320. After the RB application (IF YOU DO IT WITH THE SAME PROCEDURE AS WAS DONE WITH THE 220 GRIT BALL) then the final finish will be finer, maybe like a 1500 compound finish. The next sanding level, 400 grit, will produce lore length, and so on down the line.

You can apply RB, a rubbing compound over any level sanding, but what you get depends on the ball.
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Brickguy221

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2007, 12:16:39 PM »
I have a question on this RB polish thing.....As an experiment, I took an old ball and sanded it to 220 grit and of coarse at that grit, the sanding lines are very-very visible. Then when I applied the Ruff Buff and quit so it would look like a Brunswick Ruff Buff finished ball, the sanding lines were still deep and overly visable.

When I applied more Ruff Buff and applied it hard enough to reduce the sanding lines, it made the ball overly glossy like a highly shined pearlized ball and no where close to Brunswick's version of what it should look like.......My question is how does Brunswick or anyone doing this on a home spinner accomplish the Brunswick look without the overly deep sanding lines still showing?

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charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2007, 02:33:44 PM »
quote:
I have a question on this RB polish thing.....As an experiment, I took an old ball and sanded it to 220 grit and of coarse at that grit, the sanding lines are very-very visible. Then when I applied the Ruff Buff and quit so it would look like a Brunswick Ruff Buff finished ball, the sanding lines were still deep and overly visable.

When I applied more Ruff Buff and applied it hard enough to reduce the sanding lines, it made the ball overly glossy like a highly shined pearlized ball and no where close to Brunswick's version of what it should look like.......My question is how does Brunswick or anyone doing this on a home spinner accomplish the Brunswick look without the overly deep sanding lines still showing?

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Brick


Not sure how you did that, Brick.

When I apply RB, yes some sandinglines still show, but not a lot. Same for Track's Clean and Sheen, also a rubbing compound. The more pressure you apply for longer periods, the more the abrasive will break down into finer and finer particles and the fine the finish will be and the glossier the ball will look.

I don't think there's any magic formula of amount, pressure and time. It's an experience thing and an eyeball thing: the longer you do it, the better you get at it and you "eyeball" to see if it's where you want it to be.

Even with 2000 grit and 4000 grit, you will see sanding lines. I just did a ball with 2000 grit and Legends (gritless) polish. Yes, I can see the sanding lines. If you don't see them, the ball has no ridges with which to grab the lane.
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YeahHossNV

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2007, 10:36:51 PM »
It helps to have a 2 speed spinner, that generally happens when you use the higher setting. As a rule of thumb use high setting for cleaning and polishing and the low setting for sanding and anything that has abrasives in it. You should be able to get the results you are looking for if you do that.
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Brickguy221

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2007, 12:28:57 AM »
Thanks Charlest. Looks like I probably try to remove too much of the sanding lines. I will probably have to do like I do on a polished ball in that I polish it and if I get it too shiney, I take a worn out light grey pad and buff the ball VERY lightly to knock off a bit of the shine but yet, not dull it.
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Brick
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away"