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Author Topic: How to de-oil my Hy-road?  (Read 4195 times)

Willis

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How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« on: May 27, 2009, 09:31:21 AM »
My Hy-road is at 4000 grit and I was wondering if it is necessary to take it down in grit before de-oiling?

Which method do you all prefer, hot water bath or in the dishwasher?

Thanks.

 

icewall

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2009, 06:41:28 PM »
ill be honest ive tried the hot water as well as dishwasher.

but I prefer rubbing the ball over and over again with clean n dull. never had a problem doing that and worked "for me" everytime

some may disagree but thats my opinion and all ive ever needed to keep my balls alive.

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2009, 06:47:25 PM »
The Revivor.


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The opinions expressed are solely those of the writer and not of Brunswick Corporation.

Aloarjr810

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2009, 07:09:57 PM »
quote:
My Hy-road is at 4000 grit and I was wondering if it is necessary to take it down in grit before de-oiling?
Which method do you all prefer, hot water bath or in the dishwasher?
Thanks.


Most of the bath methods of de-oiling, suggest sanding the ball first to open the pores back up.
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Jay

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2009, 01:31:03 AM »
quote:
ill be honest ive tried the hot water as well as dishwasher.

but I prefer rubbing the ball over and over again with clean n dull. never had a problem doing that and worked "for me" everytime

some may disagree but thats my opinion and all ive ever needed to keep my balls alive.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by this?  Do you mean using multiple applications of CND until no dirt/oil appears on the towel, or just keep rubbing the CND into the ball until it goes away?  I'm curious about your cleaning method.

icewall

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2009, 05:07:59 AM »
i found this method when I had a lane #1 carbide plus that I left out in the cold after about 50 games. the oil on my track had turned white and made it clearly visible. the ball was reacting funny as well.

so I decided to see how I could get the oil out.

I tried black magic rejuv. (the orange bottle) and the white lines would fade away and 10 minutes later there it was again and the ball still wasnt reacting well... neither was my no mercy which also seemed to be soaking oil/dirt or whatever was going on.

so after being frustrated I was trying anything I could think of including the hot water bath... but didnt like the idea of the water messing with my tape in the thumb hole. nor did I feel it did a good enough job.

SO...

this is the method I found brought my balls and all my friends balls back to life.

very simply use a good sized amount of clean n dull on 1/4 of your ball. rub it in with a good towel over and over and over again till it begins to finally dry up (doesnt need to be completely dry as it will still be on the towel) and then repeat on the rest of the ball 1/4 at a time.

I think the constant rubbing is the key.

(my friend who also owned a no mercy said i just leave it on there and let it do its thing. so I said o rly? let him throw a couple shots... then took his ball and used my method really rubbing the ball A LOT... he looked at me strange but I assured him to moved three boards left.... he still went brook!..... take a guess how he cleans his no mercy now LOL!)

I proved it to everyone when I had an old brunswick purple pearl. it still reacted but WAY less then brand new. I let my friends use anything they wanted on the ball... windex, simple green, powerhouse cleaner, heat... you name it. they got some reaction back to it.

then I did my method and both me and my friends couldnt believe it. I didnt even remember the ball being that strong. then again i used it for about 6 years so it was a long ways from when it was NIB.


FYI- the C+'s white lines disappeared after just a couple minutes using this method.


take it with a grain of salt. call me crazy but this is my method and I wont use anything else. it just works every single time.

Edited on 5/28/2009 5:12 AM

JohnP

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2009, 11:17:45 AM »
I'm game, I'll try that method (C & D) the next time someone brings me a dead ball.  How much time did it take for the entire ball?  --  JohnP

Monster Pike

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2009, 01:06:51 PM »
I've always thought the surface should be roughed up before a hot water, dish washer or rejuvenator method is used.  I prefer the results of the dishwasher over the hot water method.  Turn the dry cycle off though.  I like the fact you run it & leave it, just like the dishes.  When it's done let it dry & take the surface back up to where you want it & polish it. Or don't polish it.  Or leave it at that surface & throw it a game to see what you got, LoL.  Did that to my Attitude Shift, kind of liked it.
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icewall

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2009, 01:11:46 PM »
quote:
I'm game, I'll try that method (C & D) the next time someone brings me a dead ball.  How much time did it take for the entire ball?  --  JohnP


its not that complicated and its one reason why I use that method. it really takes as long as you would think rubbing CnD on a ball would take. a few minutes?

If you ask my opinion on why it works well i think its due to that fact that:

1. CnD is very strong

2. it might be getting into the ball by not letting it just dry up

3. it removes dirt, oil, and anything else that is being brought up to the surface.

it has been said that it is oil that kills a ball. yet I see many people saying I put my ball in the revivor and it still has no backend. others such as ebonite research says its plasti...(sp?) whatever... !

its really not that complicated. a ball loses hook for a reason... the pores are getting clogged OR/AND the surface has smoothed out over time. what is clogging the pores is not important! I dont care what it is... whatever it is can be taken out (easily) with CnD.

this is the reason why you should always clean your bowling balls regularly. and when it comes to the mega hookers resurfacing is important. more friction = a change in ball surface quicker.

common sense

Edited on 5/28/2009 1:22 PM

Crash7189

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2009, 05:21:01 PM »
Here is what I did to My Black widow pearl Sanded to 360, Hot Water Bath twice,
Use Hook again . Then sanded to 1000 and Polished with Beans.  It looked and reacted like brand new, used for about 50 games to end of season.

Jay

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2009, 07:57:46 PM »
One last question icewall, and please forgive my ignorance if you already gave this information, how often do you use that method?  I wouldn't think it's needed until after 15-20 games or more.  Until then I would use a spray cleaner.  That's just me though, I don't see a loss in reaction from a ball either until I resurface it(I never understood this but some balls I never could get the performance back after the first resurface) or around the 50 game mark.  That's with regular spray cleaners and occasional sanding to refresh the cover.

icewall

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Re: How to de-oil my Hy-road?
« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2009, 09:50:19 PM »
quote:
One last question icewall, and please forgive my ignorance if you already gave this information, how often do you use that method?  I wouldn't think it's needed until after 15-20 games or more.  Until then I would use a spray cleaner.  That's just me though, I don't see a loss in reaction from a ball either until I resurface it(I never understood this but some balls I never could get the performance back after the first resurface) or around the 50 game mark.  That's with regular spray cleaners and occasional sanding to refresh the cover.


i dont use it all that often. but id say i do it every 20 i guess. i dont really think about, i usually just think, hey its been a while i think ill clean it now.

I just had a discussion with my pro shop guy and he agrees that some balls OOB reaction was amazing and it never was the same once its reaction began to fade.