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Author Topic: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?  (Read 4041 times)

slmdirttm

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Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« on: January 26, 2017, 11:16:18 AM »
Got a chance on a deal for a current top of the line, Asymmetrical pearl ball, but has a 1" pin. Can it be drilled to go long? If so, how to lay it out? PAP 4 1/4 over, 1/2 up. 4 7/8 ring, 4 3/4 middle RH. Thank you

 

northface28

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2017, 11:23:23 AM »
Better be a hell of deal. Like buying a Chevy Cruze hoping it'll be a Camaro.
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slmdirttm

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2017, 11:33:30 AM »
So it can't be done? Oh well, drill it pin down then. Thx

luv2C10falll

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2017, 11:40:33 AM »
What's the top weight ?

milorafferty

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2017, 11:41:23 AM »
Depends on the top weight I would think. If it's 4+ oz of top weight and you don't want an extra hole, then probably not.
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Gene J Kanak

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2017, 11:45:23 AM »
On an asymmetric-cored ball, the cg isn't factored in when laying the ball out. You use the pin and mb markings to figure your angles and/or distances (pin to PAP and MB to PAP). As such, I would think you'd still be able to use a layout that promotes length and angularity. Now, depending on where you end up putting the pin, the close proximity of the cg may force a weight hole. Other than that though, I think you should still have some options to get what you want. Still, I'll let the true gurus chime in here.

ignitebowling

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2017, 12:09:36 PM »
If it's "pearlized"it's likely a harder coverstock with a polished finish.  It ain't going to hook early.

Keep the pin in the 5" to pap range and the psa near the thumb and enjoy.
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charlest

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2017, 01:14:32 PM »
On an asymmetric-cored ball, the cg isn't factored in when laying the ball out. You use the pin and mb markings to figure your angles and/or distances (pin to PAP and MB to PAP). As such, I would think you'd still be able to use a layout that promotes length and angularity. Now, depending on where you end up putting the pin, the close proximity of the cg may force a weight hole. Other than that though, I think you should still have some options to get what you want. Still, I'll let the true gurus chime in here.

As Gene says, the pin-CG length for true asymmetrics is ALMOST irrelevant. Your driller, if he is a "driller", should know how to handle the pin and MB/PSA placement to get the optimal results for you. The only proviso I'd suggest is to be careful of the CG placement to reduce the need for a flare reducing weight hole, but, again, your driller should know all this. If he doesn't, find a good driller.
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slmdirttm

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2017, 03:23:37 PM »
Thanks everyone for your thoughts!!

bcw1969

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2017, 03:47:04 PM »
As a famous politician once said "Yes You Can!"

it's right here...I've used it on a couple of balls and will do the trick.

"250 degree strong backend" layout
The next layout we will be looking at is the "250 degree strong backend" layout.

 


"250 degree strong backend" layout..
This layout calls for the pin to be no further out than 2" from the C.G. so a weighthole will not be needed. The pin height above the midline is to be 1 1/4" and the Pin to PAP distance is to be 4 1/2". The Mass bias is to be placed at 250 degrees. This layout caused a "herky jerk" skid/snap motion that appeared to be over-under in its first testing. What we found out is that when the shot called for a very direct line outside of the first arrow(as it was tested on the Cheetah Pattern), we were able to draw a strong skid-snap reaction and not have the ball hook early in the friction zone. When the shot forces you to play direct and you need an angular motion at the breakpoint, the 250 degree layout was very effective.


Brad

lefty50

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2017, 03:58:48 PM »
Brad, where are you quoting from? I'd like to read the whole thing... Sounds interesting.

Aloarjr810

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2017, 04:09:33 PM »
Brad, where are you quoting from? I'd like to read the whole thing... Sounds interesting.


It's in the bowlingchat wiki:

http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/index.php?title=Trick_Layout_Examples
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Gene J Kanak

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #12 on: January 27, 2017, 07:28:24 AM »
As a famous politician once said "Yes You Can!"

it's right here...I've used it on a couple of balls and will do the trick.

"250 degree strong backend" layout
The next layout we will be looking at is the "250 degree strong backend" layout.

 


"250 degree strong backend" layout..
This layout calls for the pin to be no further out than 2" from the C.G. so a weighthole will not be needed. The pin height above the midline is to be 1 1/4" and the Pin to PAP distance is to be 4 1/2". The Mass bias is to be placed at 250 degrees. This layout caused a "herky jerk" skid/snap motion that appeared to be over-under in its first testing. What we found out is that when the shot called for a very direct line outside of the first arrow(as it was tested on the Cheetah Pattern), we were able to draw a strong skid-snap reaction and not have the ball hook early in the friction zone. When the shot forces you to play direct and you need an angular motion at the breakpoint, the 250 degree layout was very effective.


Brad

I'd really have to see how that looks in play. From my experience, when you're playing straighter angles from the outside, you don't really want a very angular motion down lane because the angles created lead to bad carry (pocket 7-10s, 9 pins, 4-9s, etc.). I'd be curious to see this layout in action to see exactly what shape they're getting.

Steven

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Re: Short pin 1" but want long and angular?
« Reply #13 on: January 27, 2017, 12:01:01 PM »

As Gene says, the pin-CG length for true asymmetrics is ALMOST irrelevant. Your driller, if he is a "driller", should know how to handle the pin and MB/PSA placement to get the optimal results for you. The only proviso I'd suggest is to be careful of the CG placement to reduce the need for a flare reducing weight hole, but, again, your driller should know all this. If he doesn't, find a good driller.

 
I know that's generally accepted bowling wisdom, but what I see (or at least think what I see) tells me otherwise. My short pin 1-2" asymmetric balls roll a little different than my longer pin 3.5-4" balls. They retain some of that tighter roll characteristic that I see on my short pin symmetric equipment. I'm getting a True Nirvana with a 3" pin drilled up today. The pattern will be identical to that on my 1.5" polished Ultimate Nirvana. No weight hole on either. I know they have different covers, but I'm looking forward to seeing what contrast (if any) there might be.