BallReviews
General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: todvan on September 30, 2015, 09:19:35 PM
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I am considering changing the layout on my heaviest oil ball.
In general, most of my arsenal is symmetric and drilled with the pin near or in the ring finger with the cg out just enough to allow balance hole options (~45 x 4 x 45). These all are very user friendly for me.
My heaviest oil ball is an asymmetric and right now has the pin up a few inches above the bridge and mb next to thumb (~50 x 5 x 35). This ball is not as user friendly for me. I am wondering if a layout with the pin below the bridge (lower VAL angle) would give me a little more control and versatility when I need it on the heavier/longer oil??
Asked another way: Is your heavy/longer oil ball better off with a larger VAL angle?
Thanks!
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I wonder if the 5" pin-PAP has more to do with your reaction than the VAL. Depending on your stats and the conditions you are bowling, it will be hard to determine what to do to the ball.
Do you not trust your pro shop to evaluate the situation?
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Like spmcgivern, I wonder if your driller thought that the 5" pin would be more useful for you with this ball. Often we rarely use a true heavy oil ball because we rarely see true heavy oil. This drilling would normally allow you to use it for medium-heavy oil as well. Since you seem to know something about dual angles, have you discussed this drilling with your driller/pro shop?
Usually in strong balls, a smaller VAL angle provides a stronger reaction, which is normally considered better for heavy oil.
I'm interested in what you mean by "user friendly"????
How is it not user friendly?
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On sport shots, I'll use smaller angles on a symmetrical and larger angles with an asymmetrical, because since it's a heavy oil ball by design, I want it to read the spot at the end of the lane harder. So right now, heavy oil symmetrical ball in the bag is my Moxie, drilled 60*5*40, no hole. It needs a bit of flare separation, so I'm going to pop a hole in it. Now my Dream On is drilled the same way, and I could see drilling another 45*4.5*65 with a low hole to get a bit more read on longer fresh sport patterns. I used my first one on Mexico City, and while it worked awesome, I could have used a bit more midlane early on.
Now on house shots, I'll use bigger angles on symmetricals to control motion off the spot, because transition usually beats me up. So on the house shots, i like my All Day drilled 60*5*65. Keeps me out of trouble, then I can ball down to a Night Hawk SE drilled the same way. I don't like opening my angles too much on house shots due to the puddle in the middle.
And, as always, surface matters. Use the proper surface for the condition.
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I got this ball at a demo day away from my normal driller. They just put the layout close to the demo ball since I liked it on those lanes. That is why I am considering going to my normal driller to see what they think...but wanted some info before I go see him to help us decide what's best.
I am thinking that an Asymmetric already reacts stronger to friction than my symmetricals and that the lower Val angle is giving me too sudden of a reaction for an oiler house shot. User friendly means more versatile and more controlled but still strong. Maybe on longer sport shots this would be ok, but I mainly bowl leagues and rare tournaments.
I have added some surface (2000) to smooth out the reaction some. Maybe a re-drill won't make that much difference anyway?
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With that layout, the Jackal is going to be very strong off the spot. I like larger angles for Assyms on house shots as well, but it's going to read the transition a lot more than a symm. If I compare my Black Eagle 50*5*65 to my Dream On, I like the Eagle with a bit of surface on a house shot.
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The primary use I am seeing with this ball will be early games on fresh oil that is too much for my others. I would ball down to a symmetric when the lanes start changing too much for it.
On the left side, fresh oil stays fresh for a couple of games for me sometimes.
Would a layout change on this ball be worth a try?
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If you've changed surfaces and tried weight holes, then yes.
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The flares are going to be tighter at 5" than 4" so before jumping off a cliff maybe add a weight hole to adjust the flares...
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Do you think a weight hole will add some more control? I was thinking it would make the reaction even quicker - but maybe I am confusing what "stronger" really means?
Since the pin is high, Would you suggest a hole about 2" down the Val? Thanks!
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It will allow you to slow the reaction by opening up the flare rings; this allows the ball to slow down better in the conditioner and react smoother front to back
It's abt flare management
Depending on how tight the flare rings are you could to a point in between the mass bias and the pap