BallReviews
General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: JJ on November 09, 2013, 11:31:03 AM
-
Hello all,
I would like some input on the drill that will get my ball rolling and turning over the quickest.
My problem is way to much speed for my revs. (15 mph at the pins with 285 Revs).
I have tried to slow my speed down with a relaxed swing but for the life of me I can't be consistent with the speed.
It seems the best drill is pin to right of ring finger and the mass bias or imaginary mass bias kicked 3 inches right of the center of my thumb hole. I do bowl on heavy oil and the best surface on the ball seems to be 1000 grit. I average 210 on 2 leagues.
My stats are in my profile.
JJ
-
Try adjusting the surface of one of your current bowling balls to 500 grit
-
doesn't sound like you're off too badly if you're still averaging 210 in 2 leagues. What balls are you throwing now and its possible your current balls could just need a fresh surface or de-oil
-
kidlost - I haven't tried straight 500. I usually do 360 on 6 sides and then 1000 on 2 sides.
SVstar- resurfacing is done as needed on my spinner and my balls are de-oiled monthly in my NU ball rejuvenator.
My 2 strong balls now are a Storm Major 52 and a Radical Reax.
I am interested in a drill that will get the ball to hook sooner and still have pop on the backend than what I am using now.
-
There's a lot to factor in trying to hook sooner and still continue a long hook phase to have pop down lane. Especially considering its heavy oil. Id consider 360 sanded for a few shots and see how it handles. If its too much try going to 500. Its an easy free way to test the results.
-
I share your same issues at time in oil, with a higher axis rotation and lower tilt. I'm a rev dominant bowler (15mph, 325 rpms), so for me, when I want the ball to start up earlier I go with my Double Thumb layout with a P3 hole to get the ball started and not be stupid on the back end, or a pin under bridge layout and P3 or P4(asym) with the MB at 65 degrees. That for me, gets the ball rolling bat makes a more pronounced move on the back than a hole 2" down.
I will second Kidlost. Try surface first before you look for a new ball to drill. See if a touch more surface will do the trick.
-
In your case of being speed dominant--I'd always keep the mb out towards the 'val' line on assymetrical balls. Surface on the balls will/should be your friend. Unfortunately, I don't think you can have a ball start up sooner and still have enough energy to have some pop on the end. That would be the ideal ball IMO.
-
I like a pin under the fingers it get in a early roll or even stack the pin an cg at 12:00 putting the pin 3 3/8 from your pap. The ebonite pivot would be a ball to get
-
The surface is key...flare only facilitates 'hook' if the ball slows down so the core has a chance to effect the reaction
-
Thank you for all the suggestions guys.
I will try a lower surface to start with on my current equipment and then get another Reax and put the pin at 3 1/2 from pap and the mass bias on my val.
Thanks again
JJ
-
Myself i would put the MB below the center grip line
try to keep the pin right of the ring finger and about
1 inch below. I personally would leave the surface
at a 1000 not 500 you will burn the ball out.
-
Like everyone else has said, surface management first.
Also, for speed dominant bowlers, I am a fan of the double thumb layout.
-
Few things here need cleaned up.
The double thumb layout cannot have a p3 hole. The DT layout puts the balance hole 1 3/4" from the edge of the thumb pitched 1 1/4" away. The pin to pap needs to be 4" and the val angle 30 for a true DT.
Also, a 3 1/2" pin to pap on an asymmetrical will retain axis rotation whereas pins 4 1/2" and longer will give more forward roll.
I'd recommend you visit radicalbowling.com, click on one of the balls, then scroll down to layouts and read through the info there.
Apart from your driller really knowing today's layouts and technology you will be the one to understand what you need.
I have done more testing than probably 90% of league bowlers trying to figure this stuff out. Trust me!!
-
The surface is key...flare only facilitates 'hook' if the ball slows down so the core has a chance to effect the reaction
I wish I had a dime for every time you posted that truism, Rico.
-
I actually enjoy all the 'facts' posted on here personally...I look forward to our next publication of debunking much the fallacies or voodoo bantered about these days....
Thanks Charles
-
I actually enjoy all the 'facts' posted on here personally...I look forward to our next publication of debunking much the fallacies or voodoo bantered about these days....
Thanks Charles
I'm ready for that book as well........seriously.
-
Could try sanding at a low grit with the sanding lines parallel to the initial track. That helps with read in the fronts, but not too much. Then as the ball flares, it reads much harder.