BallReviews
General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: trash heap on November 10, 2014, 11:23:59 AM
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I have done some reading and also found a few videos on span:
What I have read is a good span between thumb hole and finger holese is this:
1. Place thumb in the thumb hole
2. Move fingers over the ball and relax.
3. The edge of the finger holese (closest to thumb hole) should line up to be in the middle of the first and second knuckle of the fingers.
4. You can move a little bit either way, but this is the mark you should use.
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That's how I understand it as well. When I was being fitted by Rod Ross a few years ago, he showed me exactly how he did it and it was what you have described.
Rod also mentioned that he usually went just a little on the shorter side for adult bowlers.
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Thanks for response. I was trying to find something about the thumb hole in its position to the fingers.
Just looking over the span on my ball. It just doesn't look right or feel right anymore. I have basically taken a couple years off from bowling regularly. Only bowl every once in a while.
I went and threw with my daughter the other night and it just didn't feel right. Looking over the layout, it just didn't seem to go with my hand. There is room for my middle finger and my ring finger is stretched. My thumb is pressed towards the in center of my palm. The ball just doesn't feel right sitting in my hand.
I really think its time to get refitted. However the person I go to has a tendacy to prefer a stretched span. My daughter's and son's spans don't come close to what I mentioned in my post. They are on the stretched side (about a 1/4" longer).
He does very precise work. When I tell him I want something done a certain way, he will do it. It's just when he does the inital setup, he seems to use a different method. Prefers things stretched.
So is there a way to figure out how the thumb hole should be in relation to the finger holes? How should the ball feel when it is in your hand? Should the weight be concetrated on certain parts of the hand?
Anyone have a good explaination to what a good fit should feel like, or is this a depends on the bowler (everyone is different)?
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Thanks for response. I was trying to find something about the thumb hole in its position to the fingers.
Just looking over the span on my ball. It just doesn't look right or feel right anymore. I have basically taken a couple years off from bowling regularly. Only bowl every once in a while.
I went and threw with my daughter the other night and it just didn't feel right. Looking over the layout, it just didn't seem to go with my hand. There is room for my middle finger and my ring finger is stretched. My thumb is pressed towards the in center of my palm. The ball just doesn't feel right sitting in my hand.
I really think its time to get refitted. However the person I go to has a tendacy to prefer a stretched span. My daughter's and son's spans don't come close to what I mentioned in my post. They are on the stretched side (about a 1/4" longer).
He does very precise work. When I tell him I want something done a certain way, he will do it. It's just when he does the inital setup, he seems to use a different method. Prefers things stretched.
So is there a way to figure out how the thumb hole should be in relation to the finger holes? How should the ball feel when it is in your hand? Should the weight be concetrated on certain parts of the hand?
Anyone have a good explaination to what a good fit should feel like, or is this a depends on the bowler (everyone is different)?
I think this might be a perfect question for JustRico.
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I found this out on bowlingchat.net
http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/index.php?title=File:CLT_DRILLING_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf
He mentions about angle from fingers to thumb. I wonder if this is a difference maker. I know my local proshop does not do this.
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Found this on the bowling academy, a free video:
http://www.usbcbowlingacademy.com/video/proper-bowling-ball-fit-005569/
Trash heap, I think very few drillers are doing CLT layouts. I don't know anything about it but there have been posts on it in the past here.
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Trash heap, some links for the CLT or where CLT is mentioned:
http://www.ballreviews.com/drilling-layouts/clt-grip-t218607.0.html;msg1010243#msg1010243
http://www.ballreviews.com/drilling-layouts/please-explain-a-clt-t55165.0.html;msg135307#msg135307
http://www.ballreviews.com/drilling-layouts/clt-drilling-info-t301196.0.html;msg2462061#msg2462061
http://www.ballreviews.com/miscellaneous/sigh-the-trigrip-t297848.0.html;msg2426778#msg2426778
http://www.ballreviews.com/drilling-layouts/pba-span-measurements-t287077.0.html;msg2330531#msg2330531
http://www.ballreviews.com/drilling-layouts/so-tell-me-about-clt-t108618.0.html;msg399674#msg399674
http://www.ballreviews.com/miscellaneous/dropped-ring-finger-t299136.0.html;msg2438885#msg2438885
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Wow! That was some reading. Thanks for the time on it.
So these methods never really caught on. Apparently they very close to what is already out there. I did notice on the CLT PDF that the Finger Grips where pitch to match the orientation of the fingers. On my ball, my grips are pointed towards the thumb. After looking at things again. I know my span is too long. My fingers nails are pushing against the back of the grip.
Right now when I hold the ball the weight is on the base of the fingers. Mainly the index finger and middle finger.
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A. There is no such thing as any sort of off set...it's a round object therefore they are angles and lines
B. perfect scenario is one where the fingers seat properly into the gripping holes and the thumb is able to enter and exits the thumb hole with forced deviation -
The ways I obtain these are as such - span dictates angles not visa versa
If you have an already drilled bowling ball, place the thumb in the thumb hole, over lapping the fingers over the finger holes; the appropriate crease shoud dissect the gripping hole - yes there is a minimal amount of give & take, allowing flexibility and feel
Once a desired starting span is acquired, the next factor is flex and how the thumb hinges; angles are created to allow proper gripping as well as the hand, primarily the thumb to exit the thumb hole due to gravity and acceleration, not the bowler have to manipulate their hands to 'let go of the ball'.
A way to check is how the digits enter the bowling ball and react to gripping the ball; with the fingers you do NOT want to see any stress on the knuckles or finger nails, they should be properly seated in the gripping holes, not forced into any angle other than naturally.
Part 3 (span & fingers) is how the thumb enters the thumb hole, as well as allowed to exit, so with the fingers properly seated into the gripping holes, start the thumb into the thumb hole, if the hole is at the proper angle, the thumb is allowed to enter without deviation.
Another variable is grip strength as well as wrist strength...when the wrist is in the proper position, this minimizes grip pressure and/or the necessity to grip the ball to hold onto...the weaker the wrist, the increase in gripping.
Hopefully this makes sense...
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A. There is no such thing as any sort of off set...it's a round object therefore they are angles and lines
B. perfect scenario is one where the fingers seat properly into the gripping holes and the thumb is able to enter and exits the thumb hole with forced deviation -
The ways I obtain these are as such - span dictates angles not visa versa
If you have an already drilled bowling ball, place the thumb in the thumb hole, over lapping the fingers over the finger holes; the appropriate crease shoud dissect the gripping hole - yes there is a minimal amount of give & take, allowing flexibility and feel
Once a desired starting span is acquired, the next factor is flex and how the thumb hinges; angles are created to allow proper gripping as well as the hand, primarily the thumb to exit the thumb hole due to gravity and acceleration, not the bowler have to manipulate their hands to 'let go of the ball'.
A way to check is how the digits enter the bowling ball and react to gripping the ball; with the fingers you do NOT want to see any stress on the knuckles or finger nails, they should be properly seated in the gripping holes, not forced into any angle other than naturally.
Part 3 (span & fingers) is how the thumb enters the thumb hole, as well as allowed to exit, so with the fingers properly seated into the gripping holes, start the thumb into the thumb hole, if the hole is at the proper angle, the thumb is allowed to enter without deviation.
Another variable is grip strength as well as wrist strength...when the wrist is in the proper position, this minimizes grip pressure and/or the necessity to grip the ball to hold onto...the weaker the wrist, the increase in gripping.
Hopefully this makes sense...
JR, could you explain what you mean by "the appropriate crease should dissect the gripping hole" and please in all fairness remember that Dumb n Dummer To is due out this Friday!
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Crease in regards to span...fingertip or conventional