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Author Topic: over-flaring  (Read 2743 times)

chitown

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over-flaring
« on: April 08, 2008, 03:48:57 AM »
How does one know if the ball is over-flaring?  It's been said there's a 1 1/2" widow with respect to pin placement for each bowler.  Is there a way of looking at the track flare to see if your using too strong of a pin placement for your game?
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Inferno_256

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2008, 01:09:54 PM »
your ball is over flaring is the oil lines track all the way around the ball and over the finger holes or extra hole. track flare above 1/8" seperation wont affect reaction due to the track flare effect. drilling pin position in the 3-3/8" area is pretty much pointless just go with something around 5" if your conercerned about over flaring
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chitown

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2008, 01:56:30 PM »
quote:
your ball is over flaring is the oil lines track all the way around the ball and over the finger holes or extra hole. track flare above 1/8" seperation wont affect reaction due to the track flare effect. drilling pin position in the 3-3/8" area is pretty much pointless just go with something around 5" if your conercerned about over flaring
--------------------
Michael Makela
Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada

www.mjbt.org

My Vids:
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=Vapor237


Most of my equipment is drilled with the pin 5.5" to 5" from pap.  I was just curious if one could tell if a ball is over-flaring by looking at the ball track.

How much distances between flare rings is too much?
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Inferno_256

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2008, 12:52:01 AM »
maybe 1/2" or more

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Michael Makela
Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada

www.mjbt.org

My Vids:
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=Vapor237
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gordony

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2008, 02:02:25 AM »
the track flare crossing each others
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agroves

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2008, 04:16:49 AM »
I drilled an Immortal Solid two years ago.  It has a very high diff core and I put a 4" pin to pap placement on the ball.  It flared a ton and did absolutely nothing.  The flare rings were at least 1/2" apart, if not 5/8".  I polished it and sanded it, trying everything I could to get that ball to work for me.  It hooked less than my Rampage and did absolutely nothing in oil.  My first ball out of the bag was a Epic Battle at 800 grit and it was moving a ton.


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Andrew
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dizzyfugu

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2008, 07:17:34 AM »
quote:
I drilled an Immortal Solid two years ago.  It has a very high diff core and I put a 4" pin to pap placement on the ball.  It flared a ton and did absolutely nothing.  The flare rings were at least 1/2" apart, if not 5/8".  I polished it and sanded it, trying everything I could to get that ball to work for me.  It hooked less than my Rampage and did absolutely nothing in oil.  My first ball out of the bag was a Epic Battle at 800 grit and it was moving a ton.


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Andrew


That's a good description of over-flaring. Remember that flare is created by the core which is, by drilling, put in an instable position during the moment of release. With rotation, the core wants to migrate towards its stable axis.
That's what creates the hook and end roll, and the frsshly exposed ball surface with every turn enhances friction. So far, so good...

But, here's the catch to consider - the pin position not only defines how much the ball flares (the stronger the pin position and the higher the RG differential, the more and the quicker the ball will migrate towards its PSA), it also defines by this combination of factors how quick or early the ball reaches it. Focus is on "early".

In the Immortal case, with the super high diff. and the strong pin position, the ball quickly ends up in its end roll - probably after only 5 rotations or so, with a huge track separation and no obvious reaction in the back end. The ball appears dead - but could work for someone with high speed and low revs. It just has been drilled too strong, so that even surface changes will probably not help anymore.

What's important about an effective ball recation is to find that margin between palyer's style, ball specs and lane conditions that allow the ball/core to deliver what it is designed for. Drilling a ball strong does not mean that it hooks or carries, it can just be too much you want out of it, even if it is technically possible.
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DizzyFugu ~ Reporting from Germany

chitown

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2008, 10:28:56 AM »
quote:
quote:
I drilled an Immortal Solid two years ago.  It has a very high diff core and I put a 4" pin to pap placement on the ball.  It flared a ton and did absolutely nothing.  The flare rings were at least 1/2" apart, if not 5/8".  I polished it and sanded it, trying everything I could to get that ball to work for me.  It hooked less than my Rampage and did absolutely nothing in oil.  My first ball out of the bag was a Epic Battle at 800 grit and it was moving a ton.


--------------------
Andrew


That's a good description of over-flaring. Remember that flare is created by the core which is, by drilling, put in an instable position during the moment of release. With rotation, the core wants to migrate towards its stable axis.
That's what creates the hook and end roll, and the frsshly exposed ball surface with every turn enhances friction. So far, so good...

But, here's the catch to consider - the pin position not only defines how much the ball flares (the stronger the pin position and the higher the RG differential, the more and the quicker the ball will migrate towards its PSA), it also defines by this combination of factors how quick or early the ball reaches it. Focus is on "early".

In the Immortal case, with the super high diff. and the strong pin position, the ball quickly ends up in its end roll - probably after only 5 rotations or so, with a huge track separation and no obvious reaction in the back end. The ball appears dead - but could work for someone with high speed and low revs. It just has been drilled too strong, so that even surface changes will probably not help anymore.

What's important about an effective ball recation is to find that margin between palyer's style, ball specs and lane conditions that allow the ball/core to deliver what it is designed for. Drilling a ball strong does not mean that it hooks or carries, it can just be too much you want out of it, even if it is technically possible.
--------------------
DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

Confused by bowling?
Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section
Secrets revealed: What's a fugu?


Great explanation!

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LuckyLefty

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Re: over-flaring
« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2008, 11:34:15 PM »
Under flaring, late flaring.....all terms I believe one should be aware of.....

Depends on the pattern.

Yesterday for me using a Sonic X solid and saw a guy trying to use a Rhino....under flaring.  The more left I moved(lefty) the more hung up in the slop this ball got and even a nice throw with this strongly drilled .20 diff core  as a bucket +1.  Other days with less oil and its small amount of flare...say a total of two inches.....it killls!

Took a strongly drilled Wow Pearl and had the world to throw on....and as usual needed it!

I wonder if that Immortal solid is still around.  Tricks like less surface can cure overflaring if the ball drilled too strong.  Other ideas are top weight increasing weightholes.  Used to have good luck with them back when Particles first came out.

I'm willing to bet there was some other problem with the Immortal.  Either surface or possibly statics.

Still around?

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS Chitown.....I say.....on what pattern and oil volume???

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Edited on 4/12/2008 11:35 PM
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