BallReviews
General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: MTbowler on August 21, 2014, 05:10:17 PM
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Customer is more comfortable playing up the boards (straight up 6-7) rather than swinging it from left to right. Problem is he has slightly more revs than speed, thus with new equipment he has to move inside.
He purchased a tropical breeze with the hope it would hit harder than urethane, yet allow him to go up the boards. In addition, I feel like urethane would hook too early playing that outside angle without the speed to get it through the fronts. Would a RICO layout accomplish this goal?
Bowlers stats:
Speed off hand ~14mph
Revs ~220-270
PAP: 4 5/8 by 7/8" up
Right handed
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If there is sufficient head oil it could work, but if it's dry out there a Rico I think is still too strong. I am rev dominant myself and have only had success playing up the outside with urethane. Even though it hooks early it still holds pocket. When the condition warrants it, I don't feel I give up any carry with urethane
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My understanding is the RICO layout will get the ball into a roll early, but will still conserve energy that should carry through the pin deck.
Most of the time I see a ball with this layout is at a tourney. Especially on heavy flat patterns.
Ball surface will contribute more than layout.
There are many more knowledgeable people than me to give you better advice.
My ball when I want to.play that line is a Scream drilled pin in ring.
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Anyone got a suggestion for a layout other than the RICO that would accomplish his goal given his specs? The house shot here is medium/heavy, not a ton of head oil. Want a layout that isn't going to be too snappy on the backend, reads midlane, just not the fronts.
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The layout or amount of flare only influences the reaction once the bowling ball slows down...thus make sure the surface is creating the desired amount of length before worrying about the layout.
Now once that's accomplished, you want a higher RG layout which would be one farther from the pap or closer to the track...to help retain the motion longer
My suggestion would be a pin farther than normal to increase the length
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I saw one guy use a layout with the pin in his track and mass bias on or very near his pap. What are your thoughts on something like that JustRico?
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I tend to stay away from extreme layouts as they not only become conditional, but you take a chance at a bad reaction.
I had a ball I used in World Team Challenges that had the pin in the track, to counter the early hook we generally saw at those events...on a normal condition, it backed up.
I would go with a pin in the 4.75-5.5" range and prolly up to delay the reaction, trying to keep the angles tighter.
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Customer is more comfortable playing up the boards (straight up 6-7) rather than swinging it from left to right. Problem is he has slightly more revs than speed, thus with new equipment he has to move inside.
He purchased a tropical breeze with the hope it would hit harder than urethane, yet allow him to go up the boards. In addition, I feel like urethane would hook too early playing that outside angle without the speed to get it through the fronts. Would a RICO layout accomplish this goal?
Bowlers stats:
Speed off hand ~14mph
Revs ~220-270
PAP: 4 5/8 by 7/8" up
Right handed
Why not a polished urethane like a Super Natural? Revs are one thing. But alot depends on his axis tilt and axis rotation. If he rolls up the back of the ball (more end over end roll), then he can help control the ball motion. If he is around the side of the ball, it is going to be quite difficult to control anything other than a polished urethane or a polyester ball with a core; such as a Taboo Spare.
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You could go one of two ways. Either do a short pin to pap and big angles on an asymmetrical to give them less flare to work with. This would give them a defined PSA in a weak position and allow them to play the outsides with surface adjustments.
Or you could do a symmetrical with a longer pin to pap pin under and p1 to decrease flare enough to get the ball to use energy slower with surface adjustments. Either way you should drill off the bowlers stats and place weight holes and surface accordingly.
The biggest issue that I'm having is the lack of ability of the bowler to move there feet and adjust to the condition that is being laid down. Playing that far out is rare especially on today's conditions. There are more ways to make the ball hook when you can adjust inward that trying to stubbornly stay in one spot for most of the night.
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There are 2 schools of thought here, which have both been covered. Surface management is key here, due to the bowler wanting to play so close to the friction. One of the best balls I ever had for this was a Stinger 2 piece pearl, 5.5 pin to pap with a small hole on my pap. Used Control It every night on it. It was more responsive to hand position changes, so I wasn't trapped if I wanted to move a little left.
Now, another ball that worked well was the polar opposite. Track Money, laid out 1x4 with a small hole on the pap. I could jack on it, and not get it to jump, but I couldn't move in with it. Currently in the bag, 2 balls that I can play straighter with. Desert Hook and a Grip it. Grip it at current surface needs medium to even be considered to be out of the bag.
My suggestion. Lower diff light bulb core, with the right surface, and enough flare to not make it a boat anchor. (Done that before). Maybe a Boost pearl with surface mod, and a 5.5 inch pin, up, with no hole.