Post by: BenDover on February 20, 2007, 08:15:19 AM
I wouldn't worry too much about oil absorption until you have at least 100 games. Until that point, your Ebonite PowerHouse cleaner will be fine. Also, you could have your shop refresh the cover by sanding with 4000 grit Abralon and reapplying some Powerhouse Factory Finish polish.
About the soaking, Ebonite and Hammer neither condemn nor condone soaking but I've had lots of success with it. Super hot tap water with a room temperature ball for 15 minutes and wash quick. Every 100 games or so. You don't need to do it more often than that.
Sincerely,
Richard Jacobson
Ebonite Tech Support
Post by: BenDover on February 20, 2007, 06:04:27 PM
Post by: Hogsharley on February 20, 2007, 06:10:15 PM
--------------------
3 holes of fun!!
Post by: loose5682 on February 20, 2007, 06:22:00 PM
They suggest hot tap water because you can put the ball in a 5-gallon bucket and the water will hit all spots of the ball and warm it in an even manner, whereas heat (i.e. in an oven) doesn't quite have the same potential to heat in that even manner.
--------------------
Andrew Loose
1/2 of ABT's Finest
"Strike for show, spare for dough, split for D'OH!"
Post by: BenDover on February 20, 2007, 08:47:57 PM
Post by: rcstricklin on February 21, 2007, 12:53:19 PM
Post by: KristopherT84 on February 21, 2007, 03:54:29 PM
Post by: Strapper_Squared on February 21, 2007, 04:09:06 PM
quote:
Heat and light kills bowling balls
So they are saying that unless you are glow-bowling, every time you bring your ball out of your locker/bag, you are killing it?
My opinion has always been this... if a ball is oil soaked and has lost its reaction, there is only an upside (restoring reaction). If something terrible were to happen (such as killing your ball due to light and heat), it wouldn't be a big loss becasue the ball didn't have any reaction to begin with... What would you expect an Ebonite rep (who by the way makes a heat-free product to remove oil/plasticizer) to say?
S^2
--------------------
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Edited on 2/21/2007 5:08 PM
Post by: jls on February 21, 2007, 04:10:54 PM
quote:
Isn't 'super hot water' the same as heat!?
--------------------
3 holes of fun!!
Actually no. hot water cools very quickly, however, baking a ball in an oven, at a controlled temperature, remains hot the entire time it is in there.
and that it what most ball companies do not recommend.
i know that there are many who use the rejunivator. and have great success with it. we use oil dry. we let the ball soak in it for 24-48, then clean it and do the cover to the desired finish.
--------------------
jls31316
Post by: BenDover on February 21, 2007, 04:34:42 PM
Post by: charlest on February 21, 2007, 05:26:24 PM
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: dtp on March 23, 2007, 05:01:45 PM
--------------------
N.C. State Wolfpack
Post by: FranVarin on March 24, 2007, 08:13:32 AM
I also agree with the logic that says, if you have a ball that is "dead" what do you really have to lose by experimenting intelligently on your own. My take from all of this is that when you find 1 or 2 methods that work...use them. It has the potential to save you money in the long run.
Personally, I have used the hot water approach and been successful with it. I have also use my home oven and been successful with that as well. BTW, I also use my own ball cleaner (yes, it is made of all USBC approved stuff). I get great results from that.
So, my opinion is that the devil is in the details here, it could be that certain manufacturers say certain things because of a multitude of reasons. Sure one could be marketing and sales driven. Another possibility is that ball construction materials mat vary between companies and therefore tolerances may be different as well.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
Fran
Post by: Greens Pro Shop on March 24, 2007, 08:39:59 AM
Post by: pjr300 on March 24, 2007, 09:24:34 AM
Let's not forget that if you can use a revivor to make a ball "as good as new," then the end result is that you can keep using the ball to score effectively.... which means that you don't need to buy a new ball.
So given that basic equation, what ball company would support such practices? It's taking away potential sales.
--------------------
pjr300
live from the Bowling Capital of the World
specs and transaction record (positive and negative) in my profile
Post by: 700Virgin on March 24, 2007, 09:44:49 AM
Post by: chitown on March 24, 2007, 09:54:01 AM
With doing this the OIL floats to the top of the bucket and runs out. The results of the hot water bath are incredible. They really are. The reaction on the ball come right back.
--------------------
HAMMER NO MERCY is Un-freaking real! Using this ball is like cheating!
Post by: Greg T on March 24, 2007, 10:01:41 AM
quote:
I have used the HOT WATER BATH method. I have had great results with this. Just grab a bucket, put ball into it, sit it under bath tub faucet and run the hot water until it turns cold. This usually takes about 15 min.
With doing this the OIL floats to the top of the bucket and runs out. The results of the hot water bath are incredible. They really are. The reaction on the ball come right back.
--------------------
HAMMER NO MERCY is Un-freaking real! Using this ball is like cheating!
Sometimes. I have a One, Angular One, Big One, Double excel, and a V2 Strong/r that beg to differ. Even the hook again and the track CPR refused to rejuvenate these balls.
--------------------
Post by: chitown on March 24, 2007, 10:07:27 AM
quote:
Sometimes. I have a One, Angular One, Big One, Double excel, and a V2 Strong/r that beg to differ. Even the hook again and the track CPR refused to rejuvenate these balls.
My NO MERCY is an oil absorbing ball. I had great results using the hot water bath method with it.
--------------------
HAMMER NO MERCY is Un-freaking real! Using this ball is like cheating!
Post by: rackattack on March 24, 2007, 10:13:46 AM
quote:
It's really quite simple in my eyes, the manufacturers who "frown" upon using a rejuvinator or revivor are the same companies who market thier own oil removal systems (hook again, CPR)..of course they are not going to support or promote another method as it would be counterproductive for them to do so.
MoRich and Visionary also recommend the hot water method.They do not have any dry removal system on the market as far as I know.
quote:
About the soaking, Ebonite and Hammer neither condemn nor condone soaking but I've had lots of success with it. Super hot tap water with a room temperature ball for 15 minutes and wash quick. Every 100 games or so. You don't need to do it more often than that.
This rep makes no mention of Ebonite's system in his reply.He doesn't seem to be "pushing" anything.He does offer his personal opinion though.
On edit here is MoRich's opinion. http://www.morichbowling.com/Products/Cleaning.htm
You will note it is strongly against the rejuvinator.
--------------------
It's all about the X
Edited on 3/24/2007 10:18 AM
Post by: Stan on March 24, 2007, 10:37:40 AM
I understand that coverstocks will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but I have been using a rejuvinator since they hit the market and never had a problem with any ball regardless of manufacturer.
Use any method that you feel confident in.
I do not believe anyone on this site can honestly say that their ball has 500+ games and it reactes like it did when it was new (unless it plastic). You would need to throw the ball in a controlled environment when it was new, track the results and then perform the same test, same environment, and compare the results. AND I do not mean you throwing the ball in your league. Also, you should be close to hitting your target, maintaining the same speed and using the exact wrist action.
By the way, Brunswick recommends using the rejuvinator on all their balls. Read the maintenance section of the layout sheet.
Post by: Crash15 on March 27, 2007, 05:16:04 PM
--------------------
Scott
Lansing Michigan
Post by: Poxy Boggard on March 27, 2007, 06:15:26 PM
I personally have used both the bath and my home oven to bring old equipment back from the grave. I have to say that baking is by far the best technique. It was the only way I could get a couple of old balls to hook again, tried the bath technique, and didn't see much of a difference. Tried the baking technique, and the balls came back to life.
Just my $.02
Post by: cmurder300 on March 27, 2007, 06:42:33 PM
--------------------
UAW FOR LIFE
Post by: HAMMERDOWN103 on March 27, 2007, 10:52:26 PM
Post by: sheppy335 on March 28, 2007, 08:41:38 AM
--------------------
Oil is served Best with fingers!
Why does the 8 Pin laugh at me!
Sheppy
Post by: cland216 on March 28, 2007, 10:50:00 AM
I pulled an old beuty out this week to test the bathing thoery.
The bathing technique worked like a charm on my Apex Aggression, a KNOWN soaker - and it was COMPLETELY dead, in the basement never to be used again...
Shot 639 with it afterwards - and I'm averaging 185 this season.
The ball has pop on the backend again! No more 10-pins.
--------------------
Brunswick preferably, but always open to others!!
Two Brunswick Strike Zones
One Brunswick Danger Zone
One Brunswick Plastic Rhino
One Hammer Doom Raw Hammer
One Ebonite Total NV
One AMF Maximum Velocity
One Rotogrip Super Sonic
One Columbia Messenger Ti/Pearl
...all in league rotation