Post by: cliffmcclure on May 12, 2011, 01:15:49 AM
does anyone have a drill sheet for this old beauty ? scan , PDF ? I need one badle
Post by: charlest on May 12, 2011, 10:53:02 AM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: dougb on May 12, 2011, 09:25:23 PM
Post by: dizzyfugu on May 13, 2011, 03:27:35 AM
Both replies are absolutely correct. These are simple balls with a smmetrical core, and AFAIK they have a low differential. Label setups were standard at the urethane Hammers' time, and it complements the arcing nature of these balls well. Additionally, you will certainly have a small pin distance of 0-2", so a strong label layout is a good choice for this ball. I have one drilled up this way, and most of its recation comes from the surface prep. The core just gets it into a roll, but overall I hardly doubt that you can actually tune an old Hammer ball with a sophisticated layout.
IMHO: drill it label, and adjust the surface as needed, and do not hesitate to open up the cover. Length is not an issue with the hard, non-porous cover, so mechanical traction in the mid lane area is key.
DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling? Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section
Confused by bowling? Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section
Post by: BowlingChat on May 13, 2011, 08:16:41 AM
I have it on my Blue Hammer, and it moves!
Post by: r534me on May 26, 2011, 07:58:50 PM
Post by: Walking E on May 26, 2011, 11:09:35 PM
I always struggled with label drilling on my old urethane Hammers. I then tried Axis weight layouts and found that those rolled really great for me.
Official Member of the BrunsTrackColumStormHammEboRotoBuzzAMF Nation!
Also a member of ROB STONE NATION
Post by: r534me on May 27, 2011, 12:31:35 AM
Post by: dizzyfugu on May 27, 2011, 02:55:50 AM
That's normal, at least from my experience with my label-drilled Blue Hammer. I found that it offers (much) less room for error in the pocket than a reactive piece. I suppose it is the cover's non-tackiness that rather spins pins around on a hit, so that they are not kept as low as a reactive ball, flying around the corners. IMHO, you have to be very exact, so I use mine mainly for training. The ball's carry is good, though, but I had several times the case that I could not make it carry more than 9 pins with the first shot, despite line or hand adjustments - it just kept leaving different single pins...
On the other side, it is great to experience how bowling felt about 20 years ago, and how much more skill you actually need to score consitently with one of these classic beauties.
DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling? Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section
Confused by bowling? Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section
Post by: r534me on May 27, 2011, 10:43:44 AM
I use my hammer primarily for training as well. Mainly, it's to help me train to be more constant on speed and release. I used the blue hammer subbed the other night and I left the ring 7 or blower 10's most of the first two games. It was tough to compete with the guys with the reactive balls because of the energy their balls retained. I do have to admit I forgot to make the subtle moves necessary when using urethane or plastic. Finally, I went back to resin because the hammer needed the bowler to precise and I was just off a hair and that was enough. I ended up using a troad pearl I set up for the nationals at 2k matte. I was standing thirty and getting it to about 10 at the break and I was still creeping high but I could carry. If I could have play straight with the blue hammer I would have had a chance. I am not complaining though. I love the blue hammer. I just wanted to use it against the guys using the resins balls. If there was just a pinch more oil I could have made it tough on them.
The new blue hammer with the vibe core could solve the carry problem.