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Author Topic: Red Reactive Hammer  (Read 10733 times)

bcw1969

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Red Reactive Hammer
« on: September 14, 2013, 11:46:29 PM »
I just purchased a Red Reactive Hammer --the 1994 one, and there seems to be no specific info available on the core numbers---only found a pic of the core and general info for the core numbers.......anyone happen to know what the rg and diff numbers might be for this ball......just wanting a better4 idea of what I am getting.

Brad

 

charlest

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2013, 06:38:55 AM »
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

bcw1969

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2013, 07:24:43 AM »
I believe that is the one..the serial number in the pictures puts it as 1994...however of the few pics posted of the ball , it doesn't show the big "R" to indicate it was the reactive red hammer. This ball is NIB from the Baltimore plant they had.  I also noted the listing on 123bowl, but can anyone be more specific than "rg: High diff: High"?

Brad

dougb

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2013, 09:13:11 AM »
You can try emailing Jason Wonders at Visionary to see if he has the stats.  I've done this with him and the old Faballs in the past, and while he's always quick to respond, he usually tells me all he could find were things like "low" and "high". 

My guess is the ball will give you a smooth roll and be good on the light to mediums.  I have an old Norm Duke Signature Hammer -- a polished solid with a weak cover wrapped around a lightbulb core -- and it's a great ball for playing down the twig.

Strapper_Squared

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2013, 10:16:00 AM »
At the time it came out, there was a red reactive and a navy reactive.  I believe the red was a little longer with a little more backend.  It was a medium oil ball back in the 90s, so guess medium/light today. 

S^2
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J_Mac

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2013, 12:20:47 PM »
A little more info from former Director of Player Services for the PBA, Larry Lichstein...

http://www.ballreviews.com/faball/lichsteins-1995-ball-guide-t257156.0.html

batbowler

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2013, 12:49:34 PM »
The reactive Hammer had the big R to indicate Reactive. If it has the regular Faball Hammer cg then it may be a urethane Hammer, which was made in the early 90's. Just my $.02, Bruce
I had both back in the day and loved them both!
« Last Edit: September 15, 2013, 12:53:06 PM by batbowler »
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bcw1969

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2013, 07:53:09 AM »
The ball is actually just the Red Hammer...the urethane one...I knew it might be but I was kinda hoping that the ebay listing just didn't take A pic of the big r on the cover...But I would have bought the ball anyways because it was a "blem" with a 7-8- inch pin. I figured if it was the reactive one I could drill it for extreme length which will help on the drier shot I experienced the first night of league night--and if the urethane one, then I could drill it with the pin waaay outside of my ring finger to create a little bit of reaction down the lane , and then just adjust the cover to get the ideal length and overall movement for me.

I knew that hammer came late to the reactive party, but I didn't realize that by 1994 which is the date this ball was made, that hammer was still putting out the urethanes also.  I know back then every companies balls were low grit on the covers compared to the balls of today, but does anyone have a close approximation to what grit the red hammer cover is at just so I know where I am starting at before I put in on the spinner(once I recover  better from my gallbladder surgery of course)?

Brad

dougb

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Re: Red Reactive Hammer
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2013, 11:47:04 AM »
That length of a pin on an old Faball is extremely rare.

You might want to consider the PBA Plastic Ball layout if you want to increase the backend.  I haven't tried it myself but a local guy here who uses nothing but Faballs did it and told me it had the intended effect.  With that pin length I'm not sure if you can use that drill, but others here can probably answer that.

http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/index.php?title=PBA_Plastic_Ball_Layout