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Author Topic: Resurfacing a Hammer Jigsaw  (Read 2898 times)

Fedster

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Resurfacing a Hammer Jigsaw
« on: September 11, 2009, 01:57:08 PM »
I have a Jigsaw that I have been using the bejesus out of and is in need of a resurface job.  I have my own spinner and abralon pads, but how do I get the ball back to the out of box condition?  I mean, according to the Hammer website, this is a 500/4000 finish.  I have been to 4 local proshops in my area and they have no clue.  Help!
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los2003

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Re: Resurfacing a Hammer Jigsaw
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2009, 10:05:52 PM »
im pretty sure you use storm and rotos instructions.. 360 then smooth with 500.. then lightly use 4000..
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charlest

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Re: Resurfacing a Hammer Jigsaw
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2009, 10:52:48 PM »
GO lightly with the 500 Abralon pad!!! (Be cautious!!)

THen go lightly with the 4000 Abralon pad.

You have been warned!! and cautioned.

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Fedster

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Re: Resurfacing a Hammer Jigsaw
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2009, 11:23:53 PM »
Just call me ignorant, but that doesn't make sense.  If I first go over the ball with 500 grit, then sand over the top with 4000 grit, one would think that you have just smoothed over the 500 grit, leaving the ball at 4000 grit, but with no 500 underneath.  Are you implying or suggesting that I only sand part of the ball at 500, then 4000 in another section, in effect making a cross-hatch pattern to achieve OOB condition?
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Juggernaut

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Re: Resurfacing a Hammer Jigsaw
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2009, 11:57:45 PM »
quote:
Just call me ignorant, but that doesn't make sense.  If I first go over the ball with 500 grit, then sand over the top with 4000 grit, one would think that you have just smoothed over the 500 grit, leaving the ball at 4000 grit, but with no 500 underneath.  Are you implying or suggesting that I only sand part of the ball at 500, then 4000 in another section, in effect making a cross-hatch pattern to achieve OOB condition?
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"You want the truth?!  You can't handle the truth!!


  What the 500/4000 finish actually is, is this. Go over the entire ball with 500 abralon hard enough to cut the surface a bit, then go back over the ball again with 4000 abralon, which smooths out the underlying 500 abralon surface.

  This leaves the surface very smooth without polish, but also leaves the underlying depth of the 500 finish to allow for oil handling capabilities.

 P.S. You have to do the entire surface of the ball.  What a previous poster mentioned ( 6 sides ) only refers to top, bottom, left, right, front, and back on the ball ( think of it as having 6 sides, like a box ). He was doing each "side" individually.
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charlest

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Re: Resurfacing a Hammer Jigsaw
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2009, 08:21:49 AM »
quote:
Just call me ignorant, but that doesn't make sense.  If I first go over the ball with 500 grit, then sand over the top with 4000 grit, one would think that you have just smoothed over the 500 grit, leaving the ball at 4000 grit, but with no 500 underneath.  Are you implying or suggesting that I only sand part of the ball at 500, then 4000 in another section, in effect making a cross-hatch pattern to achieve OOB condition?
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"You want the truth?!  You can't handle the truth!!


No, you do the entire ball with 500 grit Abralon pad. Then you do the entire ball with a 4000 grit Abralon pad.

And, yes, the 4000 will not smooth out the 500 grit lines, which are significantly rougher. But that is the way some companies have chosen to finish their balls. That is the way to duplicate the stock finish on your JigSaw.

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