BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Lane #1 => Topic started by: daves123 on October 21, 2017, 07:32:07 AM
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I have a NIB buzzsaw /c cobalt pearl and don't know much about it. Is there anyone on here that can tell me about this ball? Any imput would be appreciated. Thanks
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I thought the cobalt was a bomb core ball. The cobalt bomb pearl was a medium condition ball. Check out youtube.
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My bad the ball in question is the buzzsaw /c CARBIDE pearl.
I've looked all over you tube with no luck.
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Well now that is a totally different animal. The Carbide pearl is a partical cover and has a C/2 coreand can handle med/heavy to medium conditions. I still have mine and it still hooks a ton.
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Can you post a pic
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I tried to post a picture of the ball but the file is too big. The ball has a 1" pin and a 2.75 oz. top weight. Thinking of drilling for medium oil. Any thoughts to the contrary or advice in general would be appreciated. Thanks
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Pm sent
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That indeed is the carbide pearl. If you ever want to part with it let me know.
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I really want to drill it up but don't know what shape it is. Does it skid snap or long and smooth or something else? It only has a 1" pin will this have a negative impact on the performance?
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Look On YouTube under BuzzsawBrian he is throwing one the video doesn’t do the ball justice but hopefully it will give you an idea what you are looking for
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Normally with a short pin u are limited, either pin down or drill out the pin if I remember correctly the specs were 2.55 and .039 so more of a medium oil ball
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Look On YouTube under BuzzsawBrian he is throwing one the video doesn’t do the ball justice but hopefully it will give you an idea what you are looking for
he's using the Carbide + not the Carbide Pearl. The Carbide + was the remake of the Carbide solid. Now with the pin below your fingers the ball reaction should be to the smoother side.
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ya I checked out all the you tube videos and couldn't find any on this ball.
The reaction i'm looking for is down and in if possible. would a pin down drilling accomplish this. I fall into the med rev 16.5 to 17 mph player. can slow down and swing a little if I have to but really like to play down and in. thanks for the input.
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ya I checked out all the you tube videos and couldn't find any on this ball.
The reaction i'm looking for is down and in if possible. would a pin down drilling accomplish this. I fall into the med rev 16.5 to 17 mph player. can slow down and swing a little if I have to but really like to play down and in. thanks for the input.
Thats a tough one to answer. Might be the wrong ball for down and in. Would be more of an arc motion.
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You right sorry about that wrong ball
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oh well, i'll drill it up and find out.
won't be the first ball that didn't work out.
I want to thank all who have responded to this thread
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Good luck. It might be better than you expect as that is a Brunswick poured ball I believe. Most people say the 900 Global poured balls didn't match up with Lane #1 cores worth a damn but they sure did with Brunswick.
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Yeah, the Global covers didn't match up well for those cores. Brunswick shells rolled the best, imo.
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Yeah, the Global covers didn't match up well for those cores. Brunswick shells rolled the best, imo.
Yeah withholding judgement on my Stealth Bomber until I truly see a flood. Ball is decent but nothing real special imo. Especially compared to my new More Cash. Of course 5 years is a lot to spot on cover stock tech plus didn't drill the SB as aggressive as I should have. In fact think I might add a second thumb hole to that ball as well eventually. Pretty much learned now I can't drill anything but dry balls too aggressive with my style.
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The reason I wanted to try this ball was I've had lane#1 balls in the past like uranium solid, buzzbomb and a gemstone. All worked well for me so I scrounged up this one. The uranium solid was my favorite by far.
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This ball is way more ball than the uranium solid.
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HEY THAT THING GOT A HEMI IN IT ? Your'e bout to find out!
I just love that line. hope you are right about how powerful it is.
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Oh I am being I still own one and still use it during league.
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I'm bout to find out. Thanks
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So what layout did you go with and do you like the reaction you got?
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Going to have it drilled tomorrow afternoon. I live an hours drive from the pro shop. I'll have to talk it over with my PSO and see what he thinks.
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Well I finally got the buzzsaw drilled up , pin down. Sorry but I don't know all the rest of the spec's.
What I can tell you is the ball goes long and smooth and hits harder than anything I own. This ball threw messengers so hard I thought it was going to break something.
I think this ball for me will work well on shorter med. condition. I would like to try some different surfaces to make it read a little earlier.
Any advice on surface adjustment would be appreciated
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Yeah if Ritchie hadn't stiffed Brunswick he would still probably be able to charge $200+ for balls. As for surface couldn't see what the original factory was (just says polished) but you may have to experiment. 2000 grit no polish is a good middle of the road to start with. Find myself more and more using my grey scotch brite which is around 1500 or so but I am rev challenged.
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Thanks Hack. I think I'll give it a try at 2000 and see if it picks up a little earlier.
On a side note related to surface adjustment, what type of material should I be using for this type coverstock? I've heard you can ruin some proactive type covers using the wrong stuff.
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Hard to ruin a ball unless you get carried away with low grit on a spinner. As far as I know every bowling ball can be sanded without any problems including even my epoxy ball. Personally I am a big fan of scotch brites (not ones for dishes though, have to go to Home Depot paint section and get Burgundy and Lt. Grey and other colors don't remember) and Trizact pads because they last so long but if you don't have a spinner I would say Abralon pads is a good place to start. This chart will give you a good idea of how things match up.
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I'm not sure but I think box finish for the pearl carbide was 600 grit and finished with ruff buff then polish.
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Hard to ruin a ball unless you get carried away with low grit on a spinner. As far as I know every bowling ball can be sanded without any problems including even my epoxy ball. Personally I am a big fan of scotch brites (not ones for dishes though, have to go to Home Depot paint section and get Burgundy and Lt. Grey and other colors don't remember) and Trizact pads because they last so long but if you don't have a spinner I would say Abralon pads is a good place to start. This chart will give you a good idea of how things match up.
I tried to download the file but for some reason it wouldn't. I'll try on the computer at work.
I really appreciate your input on this because I don't want to screw up this ball. In the past maybe 15 years ago, I read about ruining a partial cover by using wet sandpaper and to only use something like scotch brite. Granted this was 15 years ago but this ball is of that same vintage.
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I'm not sure but I think box finish for the pearl carbide was 600 grit and finished with ruff buff then polish.
Sorry for being so ignorant but what does the term rough buff refer to?
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No problem. Like I said if you are not using a spinner you will tear up your hands long before you grind the labels off a ball. That is the nice thing about surface management there is really no point of no return as you can always return a ball to nearly factory finish pretty easily. You do want to try and sand the ball evenly if you can because technically its against the USBC rules not to but would have to be obvious about it so don't stress. Also wet sandpaper or even wet scotch brites is actually how I sand the vast majority of my balls on my spinner so they are actually safer in that they keep the sanding more even and reduce wear on your sandpaper (in my case I use scotch brites and pads but same deal). I actually use Simple Green diluted with 5 parts water when I sand as it helps clean as well but completely optional. By hand don't usually need to wet the scotch brites. In general much easier to ruin a ball in your car trunk than with sandpaper. Still if you don't have a spinner I recommend getting a resurface from a pro shop after about 50 games or so. Its fine to scuff up a ball by hand with scotch brites to reapply the last surface desired but a proper resurface by hand is blister city (trust me).
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I'm not sure but I think box finish for the pearl carbide was 600 grit and finished with ruff buff then polish.
Sorry for being so ignorant but what does the term rough buff refer to?
Its like clean n dull only its call rough buff. you would apply this before polish.
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Please don't use sandpaper on the ball. Stick to scotch brite abralon or trizac pads to change surface changes.
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^^^^^^^
Why because wet/dry sandpaper last twice as long and is 1/10 the cost
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^^^^^^^
Why because wet/dry sandpaper last twice as long and is 1/10 the cost
So you pay 200.00 on a ball and now you're going to get cheap?
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I only use true sandpaper in the finger holes. But AFAIK there is nothing wrong with using fairly rough grit sandpaper (320+) as the first step of a resurface but from what I understand its not ideal to use after the first step due to not giving a consistent surface over the whole ball like with the other options listed.
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Thanks for ideas and opinions on the different types of material to adjust the surface of this ball. I think I'll try a 2000 abralon and see if it picks up a little earlier. I do have a spinner I made from scratch so that makes it a little easier.
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Thanks for ideas and opinions on the different types of material to adjust the surface of this ball. I think I'll try a 2000 abralon and see if it picks up a little earlier. I do have a spinner I made from scratch so that makes it a little easier.
It will go longer with 2000. Knock the polish off with a grey pad if you want it to read sooner.
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If your paying 200$ for a bowling ball your an idiot you begin with. Which also explains why you would buy abralon pads
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Thanks for ideas and opinions on the different types of material to adjust the surface of this ball. I think I'll try a 2000 abralon and see if it picks up a little earlier. I do have a spinner I made from scratch so that makes it a little easier.
It will go longer with 2000. Knock the polish off with a grey pad if you want it to read sooner.
Thanks, I'll try to find some grey scotch brite pads. Probably have to wait until I can get to town.
Living 50 miles from the nearest place to find them is kind of a drawback
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If your paying 200$ for a bowling ball your an idiot you begin with. Which also explains why you would buy abralon pads
Whoa ! Take it easy man. I'm not spending your money.
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I was quick to the point. Think of it from a perspective of being a owner of a company vs being an employee of that company. A little softer approach for the snowflakes
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Thanks for ideas and opinions on the different types of material to adjust the surface of this ball. I think I'll try a 2000 abralon and see if it picks up a little earlier. I do have a spinner I made from scratch so that makes it a little easier.
It will go longer with 2000. Knock the polish off with a grey pad if you want it to read sooner.
Thanks, I'll try to find some grey scotch brite pads. Probably have to wait until I can get to town.
Living 50 miles from the nearest place to find them is kind of a drawback
If you still have the old hardware stores check there as well. They usually have from white to burgundy pads.
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If your paying 200$ for a bowling ball your an idiot you begin with. Which also explains why you would buy abralon pads
Lol! You probably use superglue to glue in grips! Why cause its cheaper! Get out troll
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I actually use IF inserts from vise, no glue necessary
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Thanks for ideas and opinions on the different types of material to adjust the surface of this ball. I think I'll try a 2000 abralon and see if it picks up a little earlier. I do have a spinner I made from scratch so that makes it a little easier.
It will go longer with 2000. Knock the polish off with a grey pad if you want it to read sooner.
Thanks, I'll try to find some grey scotch brite pads. Probably have to wait until I can get to town.
Living 50 miles from the nearest place to find them is kind of a drawback
If you still have the old hardware stores check there as well. They usually have from white to burgundy pads.
I do have some burgundy scotch brite but thought it would be a little too rough. I heard the burgundy is about 500 grit.
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Thanks for ideas and opinions on the different types of material to adjust the surface of this ball. I think I'll try a 2000 abralon and see if it picks up a little earlier. I do have a spinner I made from scratch so that makes it a little easier.
It will go longer with 2000. Knock the polish off with a grey pad if you want it to read sooner.
Thanks, I'll try to find some grey scotch brite pads. Probably have to wait until I can get to town.
Living 50 miles from the nearest place to find them is kind of a drawback
If you still have the old hardware stores check there as well. They usually have from white to burgundy pads.
I do have some burgundy scotch brite but thought it would be a little too rough. I heard the burgundy is about 500 grit.
True, but what I was saying is that the old school hardware stores usuall have white, green, grey, blue and so on pads.
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thanks. i'll check at our local ace hardware.
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thanks. i'll check at our local ace hardware.
Or try Home Depot or Lowe's in the paint section.