BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Lane Masters => Topic started by: Jammer299 on September 05, 2017, 11:07:11 AM
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With all the new lane conditioners, lane surfaces, oil patterns and machines to do the dirty work in todays game. What are some good starting points on how to attack a flat even oil pattern? Obviously every house is different, but what are some good pointers in general to attack these patterns?
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Generally a smoother reaction as a flatter pattern has more wet/dry. It really varies though depending on the other lane factors. In Vegas I've had to go to my stronger equipment with quicker response to friction as most places seem to be lower friction with a few exceptions.
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Find your friction at the end of the pattern, not outside.
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Hit what you're looking at.
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Hit what you're looking at.
That's not magical enough. Try again.
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;D
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Keep your feet in the same spot you feel comfortable with and just buy bowling balls until you find that one....
:P (obv)
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I just posted this on another bowling messageboard, it is from Rich Jacobson:
"first and foremost on EVERY lane you bowl on, ALWAYS find the too much hook zone, then find the not enough hook zone. Split the difference. Then begin fine tuning with your bowling bag, super fine tune with your game changers if needed; hand position and speed."
On super flat patterns, there will usually be too much hook inside and not enough hook outside - find the area that (as Jacobson says) splits the difference and as itsallaboutme posted "hit what your looking at".
That is how you attack a flat oil pattern. Or conversely, you can do as I and spray and pray and hope for a miracle.
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I bowl on two different flat patterns ,a medium short pattern and a medium light long pattern. on the short I stay inside playing front to back with smooth layouts and on the long I play more outside with stuff with a fast response to friction. on the short pattern it can open up depending on who is bowling on it and I just move deeper inside but don't get it out past the ten board. on both patterns I always start off playing front to back. equipment choice and accuracy and speed control is paramount for success.
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A different way to look at it.....
At the beginning, you will want a smooth reacting ball for the fresh as others have stated. For me, I start with the same ball no matter the length or ratio (Venom Shock). I may adjust the cover depending on the volume of conditioner. I will try and play as straight as I can and adjust equipment if the Venom Shock is too strong or too weak. I don't want to play left to right since that can introduce high splits and 2-8-10s.
As the pattern begins to break down and a hook spot is developed, I will transition to a ball that has a little more backend then the ball I am using when the angles start to get too steep. Most of the time I will transition to a stronger ball. You will have to experiment to see what works best for you.
You can use whatever method you want to determine where to start on the fresh whether it be length-31 or whatever. But one thing I always do in practice is try something around the track area to see how much effect the track will have on the pattern. Many times you will be surprised at what is available there.
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Hit what you're looking at.
Does no good if youre looking at the wrong thing.
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The only thing I will add to some already good advice is to stay as straight as you can as long as you can...and hope that everyone else on the pair is doing the same thing. If 6 of 10 bowlers are doing different things, flat patterns can get "fun."
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The only thing I will add to some already good advice is to stay as straight as you can as long as you can...and hope that everyone else on the pair is doing the same thing. If 6 of 10 bowlers are doing different things, flat patterns can get "fun."
Totally agree. Especially about the "Fun" part.
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But isn't about having 'fun'?
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Plan on going straighter and using smoother reacting equipment. The friction is at the end of the pattern, not the side. SHOOT SPARES. Accept the fact that 600 is an excellent score.
If you are on a pair with people trying to belly the ball like its beer league nite, it will get tougher. Go as direct as you can.
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I'll play the devils advocate.
While playing straighter is smart in theory, lane topography can blow up that plan in a hurry. I've hit multiple flat patterns that had some built in miss room if you swung it to the track.
The only plan that never fails: go in without any preconceived strategy, figure out the lane as much as you can in practice, and watch where the people whacking em are playing.
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I'll play the devils advocate.
While playing straighter is smart in theory, lane topography can blow up that plan in a hurry. I've hit multiple flat patterns that had some built in miss room if you swung it to the track.
The only plan that never fails: go in without any preconceived strategy, figure out the lane as much as you can in practice, and watch where the people whacking em are playing.
Agree with a caveat. The OP was wanting a starting point, not a philosophy for the whole block. I do agree with trying one shot (if you have the opportunity) playing in the assumed track area.
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I'll play the devils advocate.
While playing straighter is smart in theory, lane topography can blow up that plan in a hurry. I've hit multiple flat patterns that had some built in miss room if you swung it to the track.
The only plan that never fails: go in without any preconceived strategy, figure out the lane as much as you can in practice, and watch where the people whacking em are playing.
Agree with a caveat. The OP was wanting a starting point, not a philosophy for the whole block. I do agree with trying one shot (if you have the opportunity) playing in the assumed track area.
Yep, I get that. But IMO, even going in with the mindset of "I should play straight if I can" can lead to cognitive bias of what you're seeing on the lane.
How many times have you tried to move left, immediately thrown a split, and thought "and that's why I try to play straight on sport shots", only to leave a bunch of splits trying to force a straight shot? Or go through 8 balls trying to get a gutter shot to work on a short pattern just because the pattern is short? Etc. I know I'm guilty of it.
Having a practice shot system regardless of pattern (such as, but not limited to, Susie Minshews system) to try multiple areas of the lane leads to better results over time, IMO, than throwing a bunch of balls where you're "supposed" to and maybe 1 in a different spot if you have time. A shot system should be the starting point, not the lane graph.
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I'll play the devils advocate.
While playing straighter is smart in theory, lane topography can blow up that plan in a hurry. I've hit multiple flat patterns that had some built in miss room if you swung it to the track.
The only plan that never fails: go in without any preconceived strategy, figure out the lane as much as you can in practice, and watch where the people whacking em are playing.
Agree with a caveat. The OP was wanting a starting point, not a philosophy for the whole block. I do agree with trying one shot (if you have the opportunity) playing in the assumed track area.
Yep, I get that. But IMO, even going in with the mindset of "I should play straight if I can" can lead to cognitive bias of what you're seeing on the lane.
How many times have you tried to move left, immediately thrown a split, and thought "and that's why I try to play straight on sport shots", only to leave a bunch of splits trying to force a straight shot? Or go through 8 balls trying to get a gutter shot to work on a short pattern just because the pattern is short? Etc. I know I'm guilty of it.
Having a practice shot system regardless of pattern (such as, but not limited to, Susie Minshews system) to try multiple areas of the lane leads to better results over time, IMO, than throwing a bunch of balls where you're "supposed" to and maybe 1 in a different spot if you have time. A shot system should be the starting point, not the lane graph.
Simple question, when you throw your first shot on sport, where do you throw? Do you test length and the such ala Suzie's method? Or do you do something different, especially if you know the shot length or what it is suppose to be?
I agree one shouldn't use the graph to dictate where they play. But for the vast majority of bowlers, playing straighter will provide better results "at first" than trying to play some level of swing like on a THS.
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When in doubt throw your black hammer directly at the pocket I say. That's my puke play (from movie Semipro). But yeah watching others who have it figured out is smart thing to do.
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I try to keep the ball in the track because that's going to have the most friction, and move from there. So 7 or 8 at the arrows and keeping it pretty straight.
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All depends on pattern length and your rev rate.
Rule of 31 (Pattern length - 31 = breakpoint) is a great place to start
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I'll play the devils advocate.
While playing straighter is smart in theory, lane topography can blow up that plan in a hurry. I've hit multiple flat patterns that had some built in miss room if you swung it to the track.
The only plan that never fails: go in without any preconceived strategy, figure out the lane as much as you can in practice, and watch where the people whacking em are playing.
Agree with a caveat. The OP was wanting a starting point, not a philosophy for the whole block. I do agree with trying one shot (if you have the opportunity) playing in the assumed track area.
Yep, I get that. But IMO, even going in with the mindset of "I should play straight if I can" can lead to cognitive bias of what you're seeing on the lane.
How many times have you tried to move left, immediately thrown a split, and thought "and that's why I try to play straight on sport shots", only to leave a bunch of splits trying to force a straight shot? Or go through 8 balls trying to get a gutter shot to work on a short pattern just because the pattern is short? Etc. I know I'm guilty of it.
Having a practice shot system regardless of pattern (such as, but not limited to, Susie Minshews system) to try multiple areas of the lane leads to better results over time, IMO, than throwing a bunch of balls where you're "supposed" to and maybe 1 in a different spot if you have time. A shot system should be the starting point, not the lane graph.
Simple question, when you throw your first shot on sport, where do you throw? Do you test length and the such ala Suzie's method? Or do you do something different, especially if you know the shot length or what it is suppose to be?
I agree one shouldn't use the graph to dictate where they play. But for the vast majority of bowlers, playing straighter will provide better results "at first" than trying to play some level of swing like on a THS.
My first shot is always standing 20 throwing to 10 with my benchmark ball, regardless of the pattern.
Again, my point is that figuring out the pattern in the moment is better than trying to decide before you go in that you'd prefer to play straight if possible. Bias leads to bad decisions.
So with that said, in the scenario that the shot plays better swinging it to the track, why are the vast majority better off playing straight? If swinging it to the track provides a little miss room on a flat pattern and playing straight does not, i find it hard to believe the vast majority of bowlers would score better straight.
The lanes may not play that way for OP, straight up the boards could work perfectly fine. Or it could not. Without knowing the topography of the lanes (or even what he's comfortable doing), saying "try to play straight" is nothing more than a 50/50 guess.
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I bowl on two different flat patterns ,a medium short pattern and a medium light long pattern. on the short I stay inside playing front to back with smooth layouts and on the long I play more outside with stuff with a fast response to friction. on the short pattern it can open up depending on who is bowling on it and I just move deeper inside but don't get it out past the ten board. on both patterns I always start off playing front to back. equipment choice and accuracy and speed control is paramount for success.
If you notice I said I start off playing front to back and the pattern can open up.