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Author Topic: Does being a stroker generally make "light to medium-light" oil balls for more "medium" conditions?  (Read 408 times)

splendorlex

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I'm just wondering, because I often see the Doom listed as something for light to light medium conditions.  I personally find the ball far too strong as the lanes dry out, and can't get great use out of it on anything other than medium conditions.  Am I just crazy?  Does my slower ball speed and lower rev rate kind of make the ball "stronger?"
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guzmand19

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Slower ball speed will absolutely make a ball seem more aggressive.  Balls are designed to roll some before actually reading the lane and beginning their turn.  If you have slow ball speed, the ball will slide in the oil shorter before it begins grabbing the lane and making it's turn.  That gives the appearance the ball is more aggressive than it is.

Are you observations based in only one house?  Oil volume can really play games with your reaction.  I bowled in a wood house, and had a great equipment matchup.    When I moved to Kansas I began bowling in a synthetic house.  It took me dang weeks to figure out that my equipment was not matching up like it was at the old house.  All of a sudden my medium-heaby ball was relegated to skating down the lane.  The new house puts down a flatter, and definately thicker consistency oil.  My old house must use a low viscosity oil, because the pattern length was similar but how the ball read at the breakpoint was completely different.  Anyways, my point is that your house may use a light viscosity oil which would make the Doom appear more aggressive.  

Hope some of this is helpful
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splendorlex

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I do bowl on wooden lanes, and this is where the Doom seems strongest.  I get quite a different read from the ball on synthetic lanes.  Maybe that explains it!
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dizzyfugu

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The coverstock and its preparation contribute about 70% to overall ball reaction, so it is the first thing to look at when a ball does not work well for you.

With your release you impart a certain amount of energy through revs and speed onto the ball. The friction between the ball and lane surface "eats" is away. The core helps storing it and also influences how fast/strong the energy delivery is. Low RG balls are easier to rev up and "bleed" energy easier (creating more recognizable lane reactions), while higher RG balls can hold the energy better against the friction loss. Pin placement (high/low, close/far away from PAP) will also influence energy depletion and ball reaction (This is only rough science, since the coverstock material and the surface prep also influence things).

When you do not impart enough energy to the ball to make it finish, there are to try:
-Play faster (more energy)
-Adjust release (better match for lane condition; can impart more energy through revs or prevent energy loss through more skid)
-Use higher grit and/or polish the ball (less friction)
-Use milder coverstcok (less friction)
- Use a higher pin position (more length before ball breaks)
- Use a pin further away from PAP (less hook, therefore less energy loss for lane end)
-Use higher RG ball (less energy loss on dry lane parts)

Obviously, some things can be done with youir ball, some even suggest a ball change. But these are the points you can work on.

Complicated, but I hope this helps a bit, too?
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splendorlex

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I'm not going to do a whole lot, as I do get a LOT of use out of the Doom anyhow.  Also, they are building a new house we will move into in November with Brunswick synthetics.  It should be a HUGE difference, as the lanes we bowl on are from the '40s!
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Stop trying to impress other people, people mostly care about what you're saying about them not you.

If you don't like Wrigley, you might as well leave the country and join the Taliban.