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Author Topic: Urethane  (Read 2601 times)

vadertyme03

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Urethane
« on: March 31, 2015, 02:04:59 PM »
I have basically come to the conclusion that any time I am on a house shot to only throw urethane. I struggled mightily early in the season trying to make reactive work. I decided on a whim to bring only urethane one night and have not looked back. However, I do at times hit conditions that force me too far inside and I will ping corner pins all day. I have thought about a Storm Super Natural as it has slight reactive in it. I do not know how strong Blue Hammer remake is or even a Motive Tank so I am open to suggestions. Currently I carry: AMF Hype Urethane, Lane#1 Liberator, Visionary Slate Gargoyle, and Faball Black Hammer.

 

Good Times Good Times

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2015, 02:50:07 PM »
Is the question, "what urethane can I buy that I can move in and not ping corners with"?
GTx2

vadertyme03

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2015, 02:52:25 PM »
Essentially yes. Either that or an extremely mild reactive with a urethane type reaction. Most "dry lane" balls tend to push and finish like a bat out of hell.

avabob

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #3 on: March 31, 2015, 03:50:49 PM »
I utilize urethane quite a bit on house shots and very short tournament patterns.  I don't think a stronger urethane is the answer when you have to move in.  If I was going to try what you do, I would opt for a relatively strong pearl reactive when I have to move in. 

Cobalt Bomb

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2015, 05:08:30 PM »
The Blue Hammer remake is not your answer. I have that ball as slightly weaker, but similar in reaction to the Roto Grenade, at the same surface. You can, however polish the New Blue Hammer and it won't lose backend reaction like the Grenade.

I think you are on the right track with the Supernatural, you might also want to try the Avalanche Urethane. Surprisingly, I had that as stronger than all the urethanes you mentioned, at the same surface, and it comes polished.

Hope this helps

Brandon Riley

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2015, 05:19:36 PM »
Have your tried a weak reactive with a low pin > 5.5" inches from your axis?
I remember bowling league 4-5yrs ago at this wood house that couldn't sand any deeper without exposing the nails and I had an Avalanche Pearl (green) drilled something like 70x5.5x75 w/o polish.  It covered the same number of boards as Urethane but slightly longer/stronger allowing me to get into 3 arrow while still expecting to kick corners.  The same type of layout on a Strike King or something low end like that should do the trick.
Brandon Riley
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Wags300

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2015, 06:56:56 AM »
I use nothing but 90's reactive and urethane on house conditions and some sport conditions.   I have a Turbo X, Purple Rhino Pro, Power Torq, Blue Hammer,Black U2 and an HPH D Zone.  I've had 3 300s and an 800 this year with the Purple Rhino Pro and I'm between 220 and 240 depending on how forgiving the centers I bowl in are.   

I've found it much easier to diagnose the house condition transition with the older reactives and make much faster ball and line transition choices.   I normally start out with the Purple Rhino Pro and then finish with the Turbo X.  Some nights depending on the center I might get to HPH Zone if I have to move in deeper into the oil but want to play direct.   

I think you need to look for a weaker reactive to allow you to play the part of the lane you would like to and a ball(s) that allow you to manipulate your release and see slight changes in how it gets down the lane and through the pins.  You might find newer or older reactive that allow you to do this.

For me I use alot of 1 to 3 inch pin to PAPs and I would guess drilling angles around 90 degrees or more.   For lack of a better technological answer (1 to 2:00 pins or label drills).

I don't have alot of ball speed probably about average with above average rev rate.  I try to play the track area.  I generally don't get any deeper than 12-13 at the arrows and no further right than 8-9 depending on how the center transitions.  I'll either change balls or move lines but always try to stay more direct.   I don't try to hook the house conditions any longer.   
« Last Edit: April 01, 2015, 07:13:00 AM by Wags300 »