BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: NY Mike on November 08, 2019, 10:37:17 AM
-
Bowling on typical house shot dry 8-gutter, have a youngster who thinks using urethane is fashionable. He plays straight up ten with little hand. The oil levels do not merit use of Urethane but have had bowlers complain about lack of ball motion down lane when vs. him. This is week #11 and this is the first we are bowling this team, looking to be ready to make right move.
What is the best way to combat oil carry down? Up five staying in the dry or getting deep and crossing paths; any other suggestions welcome.
-
Stay straighter to the right of the carrydown. Its going to hurt him worse than you.
-
I agree 100% with avabob.
Urethane has some real limitations, and his carry will likely get worse and worse as the night goes on because the cover doesn't really "refresh" itself very fast. What carries early on in the set almost always becomes corner pins games 2 and 3.
-
In a league setting, 1 urethane ball may create some carry down. 4 or 5 guys throwing reactive will chew up the pattern, much more and faster.
I would think main way that urethane will mess up your bowling, is if you think it is, or blame poor shots on it. If you go in thinking this guy is messing up your shot - you probably messed up your shot b/f he throws a ball down the lane.
That being said - probably a solid reactive ball would work better, just whatever you have that rolls a little earlier. If there really is carry down, you need to get around it by going a little further inside and getting your ball outside of his line. Realistically, you may just notice the shot breaking down a little less than usual.
Some other things that effect carry down besides just urethane are rev rate and what "urethane" ball is being used.
If he doesn't have much hand - well anyone with a lower rev rate will alter pattern much slower.
Also, what ball? A black hammer that isn't going to flare or a Fever Pitch that will?
This summer I used almost only "urethane" in two sport shot leagues. Thankfully, no one seemed to notice, care, nor complain about me messing up the shot.
-
Mike, a good video on battling carry down, ball related and not:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=emb_title&time_continue=14&v=YTrydPK93jE
Good luck.
-
Technology marches on. If you want a Urethane like reaction without the Urethane carrydown baggage, look at the new Brunswick Phantom.
After being completely unimpressed with EBI's attempt at this type of ball in the Hammer Web Tour, I was reluctant to try Brunswick's version. They nailed it. The Phantom is a ball worth looking into.
-
Technology marches on. If you want a Urethane like reaction without the Urethane carrydown baggage, look at the new Brunswick Phantom.
After being completely unimpressed with EBI's attempt at this type of ball in the Hammer Web Tour, I was reluctant to try Brunswick's version. They nailed it. The Phantom is a ball worth looking into.
Why weren't you a fan of the Web Tour?
-
Havent tried the Phantom, but there is a reason people are going to the purple hammer in droves. It fights carrydown better than any urethane I have seen, yet still retains a strong urethane look.
-
Why weren't you a fan of the Web Tour?
I have a Web Tour, and it's awesome if there is enough oil for it, but sadly, there almost never is. I got to use it on Carmen Salvino for about 6 weeks during my sport league and it gave me plenty of area and great carry. Haven't been able to use it since.
-
Why weren't you a fan of the Web Tour?
Mostly for the reason shakezilla9 outlined. The Web Tour wants to hook at your feet, so it's a very condition specific ball. When there is enough oil for it, I personally find oilers with a higher differential to be more useful. Different styles will come to different conclusions. But I live in an EBI dominated area, and it's a ball rarely used by better bowlers.
As for Urethane, I have the Purple Hammer, Black Hammer and the Hot Cell. The Purple is the best of the bunch, but it's still Urethane. It suffers the same carrydown warts as other Urethanes.
I'm not a fan of Brunswick for many reasons, and the Phantom was a buy to keep my proshop guy from continuously hounding me about how much I'd like it. He was right. It's every bit as good as the Purple on fresh with clean backends, but still chews through later block carrydown in a way the Purple (or other Urethane's) can't.
-
Don't meant to turn this into the "dunk on the Web Tour" thread, but I mostly feel the same, though taking the surface up to P3000 is an improvement in getting me closer to my preferred line. Still there are balls meant for drier house shots and they aren't named Web Tour ;)
Though it's moot because I'm ready to drop to 15 pounds and the only ball I have in 15 is a urethane The Classic U2 right now.
-
Don't meant to turn this into the "dunk on the Web Tour" thread, but I mostly feel the same, though taking the surface up to P3000 is an improvement in getting me closer to my preferred line.
I took mine up to 3000 as well. It's almost as strong as my Rip'd Solid. When it's in play, it's AMAZING, but it rarely ever is. Maybe would be a good choice for tweeners on semi-long patterns. The shape is really nice, if it weren't so damn strong...
-
I don't understand the need for urethane in a house/league setting unless your rev rate is 450rpm+. Its like an invitation to leave buckets and flat 10's when missing firm or inside.
-
I think urethane is curremtly being over used on house shots, but there is a place for it on occasion for us tweeners. When we can stay a little more direct just outside the oil line our carry can be better than resin. Doesnt always work, but worth a s try when flat 10s start popping up, as we have to start a little too deep on the oil
-
As much as I love urethane, a 2 inch pin to pap and proper surface works wonders. I'd stand on top of where he is playing with a Boost 2 inch pin to pap at whatever surface will work for you that far right.
-
As much as I love urethane, a 2 inch pin to pap and proper surface works wonders. I'd stand on top of where he is playing with a Boost 2 inch pin to pap at whatever surface will work for you that far right.
BINGO!
Better carry with stability.
-
As much as I love urethane, a 2 inch pin to pap and proper surface works wonders. I'd stand on top of where he is playing with a Boost 2 inch pin to pap at whatever surface will work for you that far right.
I need to get a Boost or two. I tried putting a pin on pap drilling on my 2nd After Dark Pearl and it stood up too early in the friction and nothing in the oil. Not good on our house shot. My first AD Pearl is drilled stronger and is good. I've put 1-2" pins on plenty of other balls and they've been generally good.
-
Go to the kegel's web site they have a couple of white paper articles about carry down. If anyone has done testing and what changes with urethane it will be them.
Everybody else is just telling you what happens to them when they bowl.
Kegel has done research on a lot of things. I believe they know what they are talking about
Just my .02
-
There is a reaction difference between pin ON PAP vs. pin 2-2.5" from PAP, too.
-
As much as I love urethane, a 2 inch pin to pap and proper surface works wonders. I'd stand on top of where he is playing with a Boost 2 inch pin to pap at whatever surface will work for you that far right.
I need to get a Boost or two. I tried putting a pin on pap drilling on my 2nd After Dark Pearl and it stood up too early in the friction and nothing in the oil. Not good on our house shot. My first AD Pearl is drilled stronger and is good. I've put 1-2" pins on plenty of other balls and they've been generally good.
Dude, I could have told you that was a bad idea right off the bat. That core isn't dynamic as is, and totally laying the core down makes it all about the cover, and S30 with no flare is going to roll like dung.
I've been telling a fellow staffer, I'm going to do it, and so should you. Boost, 2 inch pin to pap, match up surface. More pop downlane than the AD, but still stable.
I can't say enough about the Boosts. I loved the Hooks, but the Boosts are better.
-
Some things never change like the four or five guys on a pair throwing charcoal texture super duper hook in box oil sponges blaming what they think is carry down but is actually early friction on the one guy throwing urethane. Probably a lefty too.
-
As much as I love urethane, a 2 inch pin to pap and proper surface works wonders. I'd stand on top of where he is playing with a Boost 2 inch pin to pap at whatever surface will work for you that far right.
I need to get a Boost or two. I tried putting a pin on pap drilling on my 2nd After Dark Pearl and it stood up too early in the friction and nothing in the oil. Not good on our house shot. My first AD Pearl is drilled stronger and is good. I've put 1-2" pins on plenty of other balls and they've been generally good.
Dude, I could have told you that was a bad idea right off the bat. That core isn't dynamic as is, and totally laying the core down makes it all about the cover, and S30 with no flare is going to roll like dung.
I've been telling a fellow staffer, I'm going to do it, and so should you. Boost, 2 inch pin to pap, match up surface. More pop downlane than the AD, but still stable.
I can't say enough about the Boosts. I loved the Hooks, but the Boosts are better.
It didn't roll like dung. It just didn't match up on our wet dry house shot. Basically, it still forced me too far left because it reacted so quickly off the friction. Not enough in the oil. It probably would have been ideal on some other patterns, but I ended up selling it this past week. I was hoping I could play a little bit straighter with it. All other short pin to pap layouts on various balls have still resulted in playing deep. Not a big deal. I've been doing a lot of trial and error this go around at 2 handed bowling. Getting a lot closer in narrowing things down.
-
As much as I love urethane, a 2 inch pin to pap and proper surface works wonders. I'd stand on top of where he is playing with a Boost 2 inch pin to pap at whatever surface will work for you that far right.
I need to get a Boost or two. I tried putting a pin on pap drilling on my 2nd After Dark Pearl and it stood up too early in the friction and nothing in the oil. Not good on our house shot. My first AD Pearl is drilled stronger and is good. I've put 1-2" pins on plenty of other balls and they've been generally good.
Dude, I could have told you that was a bad idea right off the bat. That core isn't dynamic as is, and totally laying the core down makes it all about the cover, and S30 with no flare is going to roll like dung.
I've been telling a fellow staffer, I'm going to do it, and so should you. Boost, 2 inch pin to pap, match up surface. More pop downlane than the AD, but still stable.
I can't say enough about the Boosts. I loved the Hooks, but the Boosts are better.
It didn't roll like dung. It just didn't match up on our wet dry house shot. Basically, it still forced me too far left because it reacted so quickly off the friction. Not enough in the oil. It probably would have been ideal on some other patterns, but I ended up selling it this past week. I was hoping I could play a little bit straighter with it. All other short pin to pap layouts on various balls have still resulted in playing deep. Not a big deal. I've been doing a lot of trial and error this go around at 2 handed bowling. Getting a lot closer in narrowing things down.
Well, if you can keep it in front of you, it would be fine. On a house shot where you have to create left to right shape, you would need a stronger cover to help out.
-
As much as I love urethane, a 2 inch pin to pap and proper surface works wonders. I'd stand on top of where he is playing with a Boost 2 inch pin to pap at whatever surface will work for you that far right.
I need to get a Boost or two. I tried putting a pin on pap drilling on my 2nd After Dark Pearl and it stood up too early in the friction and nothing in the oil. Not good on our house shot. My first AD Pearl is drilled stronger and is good. I've put 1-2" pins on plenty of other balls and they've been generally good.
Dude, I could have told you that was a bad idea right off the bat. That core isn't dynamic as is, and totally laying the core down makes it all about the cover, and S30 with no flare is going to roll like dung.
I've been telling a fellow staffer, I'm going to do it, and so should you. Boost, 2 inch pin to pap, match up surface. More pop downlane than the AD, but still stable.
I can't say enough about the Boosts. I loved the Hooks, but the Boosts are better.
It didn't roll like dung. It just didn't match up on our wet dry house shot. Basically, it still forced me too far left because it reacted so quickly off the friction. Not enough in the oil. It probably would have been ideal on some other patterns, but I ended up selling it this past week. I was hoping I could play a little bit straighter with it. All other short pin to pap layouts on various balls have still resulted in playing deep. Not a big deal. I've been doing a lot of trial and error this go around at 2 handed bowling. Getting a lot closer in narrowing things down.
Well, if you can keep it in front of you, it would be fine. On a house shot where you have to create left to right shape, you would need a stronger cover to help out.
I've always been better keeping my launch angles smaller, which is why I'm usually fine transitioning to sport shots. In the past, I've just thrown it harder or used urethane. I couldn't do this anymore bowling one handed. Just getting older and worn down from bowling and baseball over recent years. I'm definitely getting better at opening up my angles, but I still struggle at times. It becomes a grind on nights when the inside push isn't there and I have trouble getting the ball out wide.
This is where I was hoping the pin on pap ball would help out. Maybe just not the right ball for it. I had success with the X2 and DV8 Marauder laid out this way in the past. I already have/had plenty of 1-2" pin to pap balls. Just chalking this up as a failed experiment. As noted, it's been a lot of trial and error switching back to two hands. My averages are back where they were 2 years ago (highest ever), so things are generally going well. Still feel I've got a lot of room to improve though.
-
Some things never change like the four or five guys on a pair throwing charcoal texture super duper hook in box oil sponges blaming what they think is carry down but is actually early friction on the one guy throwing urethane. Probably a lefty too.
Kegel has written articles about how urethane carries the oil down and changes ball reaction. I guess they don't know what they are talking about.
-
Some things never change like the four or five guys on a pair throwing charcoal texture super duper hook in box oil sponges blaming what they think is carry down but is actually early friction on the one guy throwing urethane. Probably a lefty too.
Kegel has written articles about how urethane carries the oil down and changes ball reaction. I guess they don't know what they are talking about.
Yes urethane causes carry down not denying that. Just saying most of the time when people blame the one guy throwing urethane its usually not him why they aren't happy with their reaction. Modern reactives have no problems hooking in the small amount of oil a single bowler's carry down would cause (see link). Reactives are constantly taking oil off the end of the pattern in general. Carry down was a big issue when urethane reigned supreme in the 1980s so its not a surprise to me that bowlers that grew up in that era attribute so much to carry down today when it usually doesn't apply. I would rather the one urethane guy play on top of me than someone throwing an oil sponge near my same line and eating up all my hold especially inside as I bowl on pretty dry conditions for my league and early friction tends to be the enemy.
(edit: yeah know this a dead horse and next time will keep mouth shut and just join the mob in saying yeah the urethane guy sucks, burn him at the stake for ruining the shim. Don't even throw urethane ever in league so not sure why defending the mostly no thumbers.)
https://www.bowlingthismonth.com/bowling-tips/the-dead-zone-revisited/
Rob Mautner says
JUNE 23, 2017 AT 5:22 PM
Again, we did not find any streak of carry down containing more than two units of oil. Unless you are throwing urethane yourself, your reactive ball will not “see†the carry down. It’s burn you are seeing, not carry down.
-
Actually, "burning up" is one of the most over used terms in bowling today. Studies have shown that it's not that a dull ball that hooks in game 1 starts to "burn up" game 2, it has more to do with the rough finish being worn down to a higher Ra value. Two different things. Take two of the same ball, surfaced the exact same, same drilling, and you were to take the freshly sanded ball, and throw it on top of the ball you started with, the fresh surfaced ball #2 will hook. It's the change of the cover stock from usage. Scan a freshly surfaced ball, and re-scan after 10 mins of practice plus a game and a half of bowling, and you will see a difference in texture profile.
The reason people throwing less surface on their balls don't see as much "burn off", is because the ball isn't changing finished grits as rapidly; combined with the fact they probably have a higher rev rate and don't need as much surface to get the ball to slow down and hook.
Leave both a sanded ball and a polished ball untouched long enough (40-50 games depending on lane surface being bowled on and the oil being used and rev rate), the two differently finished balls will end up having similar texture profiles when scanned for surface roughness.
And once again, rev rate has more to do with bowlers having to move their feet than does oil depletion.
http://www.kegel.net/wpa/2016/3/14/breakdown-and-carrydown-by-the-numbers
A bowler with less rev rate is going to "see carrydown" quicker than a bowler with a high rev rate. Usually, people using big hooking balls generally have less hand because they need the help of the weight block and cover to get the ball to slow down and hook.
So, Less rev rate combined with more surface texture on the ball to start that is smoothing out with every shot equals a bowler "seeing" carrydown. It has nothing to do with "burning up". "Burning up" is something that high rev rate players see when trying to move to deeper angles, and a ball had already satisfied it's roll and slowed down, thus not making it back to the pocket. It's not the low rev house bowler who's ball stopped hooking halfway through game 2.
I'm not debating that resin balls don't remove oil. But the issue is more to do with track flare, then cover stock. You can take the strongest oil soaking cover made by man, put it with a pancake weight block that is rolling over the same part of the ball every rotation down the lane, and it won't remove as much oil as a less aggressive mild reactive cover drilled strong that flares 7" because it is hitting fresh surface on the ball every rotation. And once again, rev rate becomes the primary factor in getting a ball to flare 7".
http://www.kegel.net/wpa/breakdown-and-carrydown-then-and-now
Conditions with a ton more oil, like today, will have a greater impact from "carrydown" from a non-flaring urethane ball, then if it were very light volumes of oil like yester-year. Plastic spare balls going through the middle for spares also pushes oil down the lane. You can believe it or not, but that's reality.
-
Rob Mautner says
JUNE 23, 2017 AT 5:22 PM
Again, we did not find any streak of carry down containing more than two units of oil. Unless you are throwing urethane yourself, your reactive ball will not “see†the carry down. It’s burn you are seeing, not carry down.
I've been part of online "discussions" with Rob Mautner about the reality of carry down. We have agreed to disagree. My personal opinion is that depending on the characteristics of the lane bed, the oil machine, the oil used, the construction of the pattern itself (is there a lot of oil at the end of the pattern), the amount of time the pattern is given to adhere to the lane, etc., there can be carry down on some occasions. I've personally inspected patterns after bowling on them and have seen streaks with more than 2 units ELONGATING the pattern.
Do I believe this is occurring every time I'm bowling? No. But it does exist in certain instances.
From Kegel's FAQ about conditioning lanes:
Question: Ball reaction is weak after a game and a half. How do I reduce my carry down?
Answer: Typically the applied oil distance forward is too far creating too much conditioner towards the end of the oil pattern. Reduce the applied distance of conditioner and add to the reverse to prevent the loss of durability.
Another source from Kegel:
http://www.kegel.net/wpa/2016/1/5/does-lane-oil-evaporate-and-how-long-should-the-oil-pattern-sit
With the amount of lane conditioner being used in today's lane patterns, it takes about 15-30 minutes for the lane conditioner to "settle down" and stabilize on the lane. If time is not allowed for this process to take place, things like excessive carrydown can occur. The lanes may also play "tighter" simply because the oil is sitting up on top of the lane more and there is less resistance to the bowling ball as it rolls through the oil pattern.
And another:
http://www.kegel.net/wpa/2016/3/14/breakdown-and-carrydown-by-the-numbers
My point is that carry down exists, not all the time, but it has not gone completely the way of the dodo bird.
-
I've been part of online "discussions" with Rob Mautner about the reality of carry down. We have agreed to disagree. My personal opinion is that depending on the characteristics of the lane bed, the oil machine, the oil used, the construction of the pattern itself (is there a lot of oil at the end of the pattern), the amount of time the pattern is given to adhere to the lane, etc., there can be carry down on some occasions. I've personally inspected patterns after bowling on them and have seen streaks with more than 2 units ELONGATING the pattern.
^^^^^^^^
This, as well as Tommy's above analysis, are spot on.
On several occasions, I've walked down the walkway next to the end lane (along with our laneman) to inspect the lane from the condition of fresh to having thrown several games with aggressive reactive equipment. Elongated streaks exist. I had no way of measuring # of units, but they were visible and sometimes thick. For anyone who doubts this, do this kind of inspection yourself.
-
I still maintain if you are blaming the one guy on your pair throwing urethane for anything having to do with your bowling performance then you are a (edit: not super versatile to be polite) bowler in general. Whole different situation than getting on a pair after a birthday party or something. Just like with sandbagging people assume stuff that majority of the time isn't true when it comes to other bowlers. Maybe its different for everyone but early friction is a lot more of a problem I deal with than carry down and do bowl against no thumbers throwing urethane (who usually I do great against especially when they don't carry after game 1 as said earlier in thread, and carry down they do create just delays transition for me). Its people throwing SPEC balls (usually with surface) I have to watch for (though they generally suck after game 1 also). Not saying carry down doesn't exist at all just that a whole lot of house hacks (doesn't include anyone in this thread though) can't tell difference between carry down and early friction (ie ball doesn't hook or over/under is always due to carry down) so it always urethane's fault. Only ever use urethane myself in practice and as also said always seems like the carry down affects the person throwing urethane more than anyone else. Still will completely defer to you veterans as far as carry down on sport patterns with urethane. Not a hill going to die on.
-
Not sure I can add much more, other than to reiterate my agreement that urethane carrydown is less of an impact on transition than high rev guys blowing up the pattern with super aggressive shells. Transitions are tough in todays environment. Indeed, even demanding sport patterns would be much more playable were it not for transitions caused by all bowlers playing multiple angles with all different types of ewuipment
-
I still maintain if you are blaming the one guy on your pair throwing urethane for anything having to do with your bowling performance then you are a (edit: not super versatile to be polite) bowler in general. Whole different situation than getting on a pair after a birthday party or something. Just like with sandbagging people assume stuff that majority of the time isn't true when it comes to other bowlers. Maybe its different for everyone but early friction is a lot more of a problem I deal with than carry down and do bowl against no thumbers throwing urethane (who usually I do great against especially when they don't carry after game 1 as said earlier in thread, and carry down they do create just delays transition for me). Its people throwing SPEC balls (usually with surface) I have to watch for (though they generally suck after game 1 also). Not saying carry down doesn't exist at all just that a whole lot of house hacks (doesn't include anyone in this thread though) can't tell difference between carry down and early friction (ie ball doesn't hook or over/under is always due to carry down) so it always urethane's fault. Only ever use urethane myself in practice and as also said always seems like the carry down affects the person throwing urethane more than anyone else. Still will completely defer to you veterans as far as carry down on sport patterns with urethane. Not a hill going to die on.
Your SPEC comment is spot on. My teammate has one and when I stand directly behind him and watch the ball hitting the lane I swear I can see a puff of white smoke just like an airplane wheel hitting the runway. Just like you said it's only good for game 1 but he loves the ball and keeps going back to it during the match. Drives me crazy and I have to watch him like a hawk so I can stay away from him when he pulls out that SPEC ball.
As far as carry down is concerned, in game three and I nail the front 5 and then my ball starts to not make it to the pocket and leaving 2 pins I'm blaming the urethane guy. Even if he isn't on my pair, he must have been there earlier in the day. I'm your typical bowler, it can't possibly be my fault right??????????
-
I still maintain if you are blaming the one guy on your pair throwing urethane for anything having to do with your bowling performance then you are a (edit: not super versatile to be polite) bowler in general. Whole different situation than getting on a pair after a birthday party or something. Just like with sandbagging people assume stuff that majority of the time isn't true when it comes to other bowlers. Maybe its different for everyone but early friction is a lot more of a problem I deal with than carry down and do bowl against no thumbers throwing urethane (who usually I do great against especially when they don't carry after game 1 as said earlier in thread, and carry down they do create just delays transition for me). Its people throwing SPEC balls (usually with surface) I have to watch for (though they generally suck after game 1 also). Not saying carry down doesn't exist at all just that a whole lot of house hacks (doesn't include anyone in this thread though) can't tell difference between carry down and early friction (ie ball doesn't hook or over/under is always due to carry down) so it always urethane's fault. Only ever use urethane myself in practice and as also said always seems like the carry down affects the person throwing urethane more than anyone else. Still will completely defer to you veterans as far as carry down on sport patterns with urethane. Not a hill going to die on.
Your SPEC comment is spot on. My teammate has one and when I stand directly behind him and watch the ball hitting the lane I swear I can see a puff of white smoke just like an airplane wheel hitting the runway. Just like you said it's only good for game 1 but he loves the ball and keeps going back to it during the match. Drives me crazy and I have to watch him like a hawk so I can stay away from him when he pulls out that SPEC ball.
As far as carry down is concerned, in game three and I nail the front 5 and then my ball starts to not make it to the pocket and leaving 2 pins I'm blaming the urethane guy. Even if he isn't on my pair, he must have been there earlier in the day. I'm your typical bowler, it can't possibly be my fault right??????????
+1 :). Yeah screw the urethane guy. Can't believe I was defending that fool. Always wrecking the shim. Get him. <Whistle as I walk away>
-
Before I switched to no-thumb bowling, didn't even believe carry down could be much of a problem. But then teaching myself to no-thumb with a non flaring Columbia scout showed me otherwise. Anyway, with my 380 rev rate and using primarily urethane, I have a lot of experience with factors that cause, or don't cause carry down.
If I'm by myself practicing on fresh oil, I see carry down in about 1 game. After 2 games, the lanes are no longer a house shot, and impossible.
If I use the same ball, in a tournament with 2 - 3 guys throwing reactive, and the pattern gets blown up by their equipment. Maybe I'm slowing down how much reactive is soaking up the oil. I have been learning than in tournament, I need to automatically move left when we switch pairs. But the point is, my ball is not reducing the backend enough to counter their reactive.
However, if you have 2 - 3 guys on a pair playing urethane, that would be an issue.
And I'll always say, what urethane matters. Some flare, some don't. Those that don't flare create carrydown very fast. Just a few frames.
-
I throw a 900 Global Special Ops which is 80% urethane 20% reactive. People seem to score just fine against me. One night I threw my Special Ops and the opposing team had one guy throwing a Special Ops and his teammate threw a Pitch Fever which is pearl urethane. Everyone was scoring fine.
-
I throw a 900 Global Special Ops which is 80% urethane 20% reactive. People seem to score just fine against me. One night I threw my Special Ops and the opposing team had one guy throwing a Special Ops and his teammate threw a Pitch Fever which is pearl urethane. Everyone was scoring fine.
Shadow Ops. :)
-
I throw a 900 Global Special Ops which is 80% urethane 20% reactive. People seem to score just fine against me. One night I threw my Special Ops and the opposing team had one guy throwing a Special Ops and his teammate threw a Pitch Fever which is pearl urethane. Everyone was scoring fine.
Shadow Ops. :)
I love the Shadow Ops. I threw my first 700 (703) series this last Thursday night. I'm averaging 200+ in two leagues with this ball.