BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: Olderdude on September 15, 2014, 12:39:26 PM
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Recently went to a new ball driller who informed me my thumb whole was too large and it was causing me to squeeze the ball so I have a new thumb hole much tighter and I really need to focus on relaxing my hand or my thumb will stick. I've gotten better at relaxing my hand and was wondering what kind of negative effect bending my thumb and squeezing was causing.
Thanks
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Squeezing will always cause a muscled swing, which will never be the same 1 time to the next, it will tire you out, cause blisters and callouses, and tire you out much quicker. You can not squeeze the ball and have a free armswing. Not squeezing will allow you to repeat shots and have a free swing, which will in turn result in better ball roll and pin carry.
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The first negative effect to show up is usually pulling the shot.
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Pulling shot makes sense, I always thought I was pulling it because of timing and would slow my feet or speed them up trying to fix it.
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Squeezing will always cause a muscled swing, which will never be the same 1 time to the next, it will tire you out, cause blisters and callouses, and tire you out much quicker. You can not squeeze the ball and have a free armswing. Not squeezing will allow you to repeat shots and have a free swing, which will in turn result in better ball roll and pin carry.
Doom and Milo have covered it. Also, I have found that squeezing causes the ball to track over the thumb hole.
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I noticed reduced ball speed back when I used to grab along with elbow/forearm pain
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How does one determine proper thumb hole size and pitches?
How does beveling play into this discussion?
How do you adjust to a tighter thumb hole and maybe less reverse pitch?
Thank You...
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Simple answers, sometimes difficult execution. Proper thumbhole size is when you can insert your thumb STRAIGHT and withdraw it straight. You want a bit of drag all the way around, because when you squeeze (you still have to squeeze slightly to hold onto the ball, you won't ever be able to completely relax your hand) you compress your thumb slightly. You don't want extra room, that will cause you to grip, and if it's too tight it just won't come out . . However, drilling a hole a bit size or two larger than what you need allows you to add tape which will both eliminate any kind of vacuum created by a thumbhole that fits TOO well, and give you something to hang onto, which reduces required grip pressure. Pitches, or angles are more a comfort thing, you want to angle so that it's comfortable and fits the way your hand naturally wants to sit so that you can hang onto the ball with the minimum amount of pressure possible. This is a bit of trial and error sometimes.
If you have a proper fit, you won't want much bevel. Bevel allows your thumb to move out of position above the thumbhole and can contribute to gripping/sticking. Most people need bevel because of how they grip the ball. When you bend your thumb and/or have a long span, the edge of the thumbhole is going to hit you hard. If you keep your thumb straight and have a proper span, you almost enjoy not having bevel, it's actually an aid. You don't want to cut yourself of course, so you might hit it slightly coming off the press, but not much.
Adjusting to a tighter thumbhole and less pitch or angle can be rough if you're used to gripping . . BUT, if you pair that with fixing your entire fit at the same time, it will actually feel more natural and it might be a lot easier than you think it will be.
How does one determine proper thumb hole size and pitches?
How does beveling play into this discussion?
How do you adjust to a tighter thumb hole and maybe less reverse pitch?
Thank You...
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TIERED TAPING by Joe Slowinski...... best thing that ever happened to my game. Google it.
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I have what I feel is a really lose arm swing, yet I grip the ball. If I don't grip it, I feel like I am going to lose the ball. If I switch to a thumb size that I know I won't lose the ball, my thumb hangs and I tug the shot badly. Any tips? Or do I need to post a video? And if I remember correctly, I also get all speed and no hand if I try to relax my thumb because it comes off my hand so early.
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I have what I feel is a really lose arm swing, yet I grip the ball. If I don't grip it, I feel like I am going to lose the ball. If I switch to a thumb size that I know I won't lose the ball, my thumb hangs and I tug the shot badly. Any tips? Or do I need to post a video? And if I remember correctly, I also get all speed and no hand if I try to relax my thumb because it comes off my hand so early.
Do you use tape? Check out these articles and see if they help:
http://bowl4fun.com/ron/btm04_files/btm4.htm
http://www.itbca.bowlingknowledge.info/index.php/2013-fall/95-tiered-taping-a-process-to--grip-pressure-and-improve-swing-release
http://www.bowlingthismonth.com/article/tiered-taping/
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Lots of issues with over gripping. In addition to those mentioned, you lose a lot of revs. Modern effective release calls for a very relaxed grip.
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Simple answers, sometimes difficult execution. Proper thumbhole size is when you can insert your thumb STRAIGHT and withdraw it straight. You want a bit of drag all the way around, because when you squeeze (you still have to squeeze slightly to hold onto the ball, you won't ever be able to completely relax your hand) you compress your thumb slightly. You don't want extra room, that will cause you to grip, and if it's too tight it just won't come out . . However, drilling a hole a bit size or two larger than what you need allows you to add tape which will both eliminate any kind of vacuum created by a thumbhole that fits TOO well, and give you something to hang onto, which reduces required grip pressure. Pitches, or angles are more a comfort thing, you want to angle so that it's comfortable and fits the way your hand naturally wants to sit so that you can hang onto the ball with the minimum amount of pressure possible. This is a bit of trial and error sometimes.
If you have a proper fit, you won't want much bevel. Bevel allows your thumb to move out of position above the thumbhole and can contribute to gripping/sticking. Most people need bevel because of how they grip the ball. When you bend your thumb and/or have a long span, the edge of the thumbhole is going to hit you hard. If you keep your thumb straight and have a proper span, you almost enjoy not having bevel, it's actually an aid. You don't want to cut yourself of course, so you might hit it slightly coming off the press, but not much.
Adjusting to a tighter thumbhole and less pitch or angle can be rough if you're used to gripping . . BUT, if you pair that with fixing your entire fit at the same time, it will actually feel more natural and it might be a lot easier than you think it will be.
How does one determine proper thumb hole size and pitches?
How does beveling play into this discussion?
How do you adjust to a tighter thumb hole and maybe less reverse pitch?
Thank You...
Very informative indeed, thank you!
When you suggest the "need for drag all the way around", are you recommending the use of tape on both the front and back of the thumb?
How much reverse pitch would you suggest I start at for a 5.25" relaxed finger-tip? Currently, I'm at 1/4" reverse, but I believe I could do with less.
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I been using tiered tape for about a year now and absolutely love it.
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There is NO such thing as a relaxed finger tip...there is a properly fit span
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Last night I cut down on how much I grip the ball. I was able to switch to a smaller thumb and let it hold to my thumb naturally. I felt like I naturally had more hand in a ball without having to force it. I was more consistent with revs, speed, and accuracy. I shot 201, 200, 205 because the lanes dry up faster on this league than I am use to, and I am only a sub. I can't keep ahead of the moves
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Understand, the wrist is what supports the bowling ball...not how much you grip it
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Rico, I don't mean to sound like a smart a$$ with this question. It is an honest question. How does the wrist support the ball in the backswing without the hand staying under the ball? It seems to me like the hand would have to stay under the ball the whole time, which leads to a bent elbow, causing more of a muscles swing.
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Not sure the tighter thumb is going to work, it just seems to hang. I'm fighting the resistance to make it larger. I need to keep putting easy slide on my thumb to make it come off smooth
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There is NO such thing as a relaxed finger tip...there is a properly fit span
Rico, you're probably not old enough to remember, but many years ago in a land far, far away, some bowlers stretched their span to to generate more "lift & turn". Back then, my span measured 5 1/2" and I used a 3/4" reverse thumb pitch.
Considering my old specs, my current ball feels QUITE relaxed thank you... just semantics of course.
Rico, perhaps you could share your thoughts on properly fitting a bowler's span and especially the proper fitting of a thumb hole?
Thanks,
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Not sure the tighter thumb is going to work, it just seems to hang. I'm fighting the resistance to make it larger. I need to keep putting easy slide on my thumb to make it come off smooth
My thoughts, and please, if wrong, someone correct:
First, you have to have the thumbhole large enough so that it is slightly large on the sides even when your thumb is swollen. Because the thumb is usually not round, but oval, you have to use tape or Magic Carpet to tighten the size on the front/back ends. The use of tape/MC also reduces the suction effect (see my previous Ron Clifton link) so that the thumb can clear the tighter hole. You have to keep the thumb straight even if you do squeeze. One tip that I remember for that is to concentrate on pushing the thumbnail against the backside of the hole, apply pressure with the base of the thumb to the front edge of the hole. This should help the thumb to clear even if it feels tight. Better explanations on the sizing of the thumbhole can be found in my previous links.
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Behind The Curve, you are right. Back in the '60s early '70s most drillers or bowlers wanted a longer span. I tried it and did not like it. My driller pushed what he called a 'relaxed fingertip' but it was probably close to what we would call a 'properly fitted' ball now.
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I call the old stretched out spans, "the Vulcan death grip"
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The 'olde days' the ball were improperly fit or stretched...this is the reason why I 'learned' to fit and wrote a book on it...it didn't create anything other than tendinitis and other issues
The wrist supports the bowling ball by staying firm...if it stays in the proper position throughout the swing it appears the hand is behind or on top of the ball
Visualise the wrist breaking away and see where the hand is
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The 'olde days' the ball were improperly fit or stretched... this is the reason why I 'learned' to fit and wrote a book on it... it didn't create anything other than tendinitis and other issues
What book would that be?
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(r)eVolve - technical packet - 2 part technical manual on fitting, drilling, ball motion and layouts plus a DVD and cd
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(r)eVolve - technical packet - 2 part technical manual on fitting, drilling, ball motion and layouts plus a DVD and cd
Sounds like just what I need...
Where can I order it and what is this the price?
Thanks Again,
BTC
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(r)eVolve - technical packet - 2 part technical manual on fitting, drilling, ball motion and layouts plus a DVD and cd
Sounds like just what I need...
Where can I order it and what is this the price?
Thanks Again,
BTC
Rico?
Anybody?
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It is not current available thru the website but you can pm or email me to order...HYBowlingConcepts@yahoo.com
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Great book!! Tons of good information.