BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: Dakota on October 05, 2021, 06:25:16 AM
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Hi Fellow Bowlers - My question has to do with the bowling ball arsenal. How do you stack rank your arsenal. Obviously the question is to bowlers with more than one or two bowling balls. But the ranking provides a Game Plan on how you would attack a new league night or tournament. Due to my Gold Coaching Level Studies I have drilled many balls. My Arsenal Stacking depends on - (1) the bowling lane environment, (2) Low to high RG, (3) Cover Stock and (4) Dual Angle Layout by low to high Drilling Angle. Your thoughts! Have Fun! Gold Level Coach ABE Denny
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I have to throw them because they don't always do what you would think. For example I don't know why I get more backend out of a urethane BooYah Pro than a resin Web Tour even with a ton of surface on the BYP, but I do. :P
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Hi Bowlers - The Bowling Environment covers construction, location and oil, Wood, Synthetic, other. The anticipated Oil Pattern. Is it a fresh house shot, a burned house shot, or a Sport Pattern. Do you recognize that every lane in a bowling center has its own topography issues? How do you arrange your arsenal or game plan for Topography variables. Have fun - Gold Coach ABE Denny
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Hi Bowlers - When I rank cover stock as #3 that includes maintaining the grit level at OTB, or unique Grit Levels, or added polish / compound. Each is unique to the environment that you and I are going to compete on! I start with OTB and than fine tune grit for a particular lane read. Talk with your PSO! Your thoughts! Have fun - Gold Level Coach ABE Denny
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High performance: asym one with surface one with less surface
Upper mid performance: asym with less surface
Mid performance: at least one with surface and at least one with less surface
Lower performance: at least one with surface and one with less surface
Plastic: at least one
I have too many bowling balls drilled and undrilled but these are the categories I look at for my arsenal and for most tournaments will take 9 including a spare ball.
Drilling are typically all the same with the pin in the 4.5-5" range up or down doesn't matter.
Exceptions are when using the Rico layout or a short pin layout. Typically i have one of each. Currently I have two short pin options. I also have about 5 urethane which were collected over the years but seldom able to use. In the event of a short pattern I have urethane options along with two short pin options.
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Ignitebowling, sound advise/suggestions, as I was gonna explain this exact route; Nailed it.
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Hi Bowlers - Thank you for our responses. This is a really critical point for each of us who are multiple ball bowlers. As Ignitebowling stated he segregates by High, Upper mid, Mid, and Low level performance. This works for him. I would like to fine tune performance. The RG value defines one of the engineering performance ranges that we can identify with. The RG ranges, bowling.com, are Low 2.46 - 2.570, Mid 2.570 - 2.680, and High 2.680 - 2.80. For me I see the ranges as Low 2.46 - 2.50, Mid 2.50 - 2.55, an High 2.55 - 2.80. So, Ignitebowling and myself are similar, I just like to use numerical values. The referenced bowling.com ranges are to just great. The key is that the Lower the RG value the sooner the ball will read the lane. A seminar that I attended with Chris Barnes, as the speaker, on this subject stated that every .4 increase pushes the ball down the lane another 4 feet before lane read. More to come - Gold Level Coach ABE Denny
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Hi Bowlers - Thank you for our responses. This is a really critical point for each of us who are multiple ball bowlers. As Ignitebowling stated he segregates by High, Upper mid, Mid, and Low level performance. This works for him. I would like to fine tune performance. The RG value defines one of the engineering performance ranges that we can identify with. The RG ranges, bowling.com, are Low 2.46 - 2.570, Mid 2.570 - 2.680, and High 2.680 - 2.80. For me I see the ranges as Low 2.46 - 2.50, Mid 2.50 - 2.55, an High 2.55 - 2.80. So, Ignitebowling and myself are similar, I just like to use numerical values. The referenced bowling.com ranges are to just great. The key is that the Lower the RG value the sooner the ball will read the lane. A seminar that I attended with Chris Barnes, as the speaker, on this subject stated that every .4 increase pushes the ball down the lane another 4 feet before lane read. More to come - Gold Level Coach ABE Denny
The cover is the number one factor in ball motion. I know of balls with RGs in the 2.4s that are early and more roll (Gamebreakers) and balls with the same RG that are more skid flip (Violent Eruption). For sake of argument; I realize the Gamebreakers come at 2000 and Violent Eruption comes polished. However, even if you polish a Gamebreaker; it still wont be flippy. This is based on my experience as I have both a GB2 Solid and Violent Eruption both with 5 inch pin to PAPs.
I just went through this with Strider recently regarding his Ordinance C4. It has an RG in the 2.4s but he had a very hard time getting backend and continuation whereas his Venom Shock, also with an RG in the 2.4s, got down the lane and had a little "pop" on the backend. The only logical explanation was the coverstock. The cover on the Venom is cleaner in the oil and more responsive to friction whereas the cover on the Ordinance wants to read the oil much sooner which then means it doesnt conserve as much energy for backend reaction. The Ordinance wanted to get into the hook phase too soon.
In this video; you will notice that there is virtually no difference in ball motion from a 10 degree difference in VAL angle on a symmetrical ball.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2asGDu7THA
This video is very telling. It talks about the 4 factors of ball performance (cover, core, layout, surface).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05HrbSt9gC0
I respect the fact you are a Gold Level Coach. However, I will say this. Getting overly technical with an average bowler will only complicate things unless they are really wanting to learn about it. It is like using "advanced metrics" when grading a MLB baseball player. Sometimes looking at batting average, HRs, RBIs, and errors made is enough because most people wont understand what WAR, Defensive Runs Saved, OPS+, and other metrics means. I would rather know what the players on my favorite team have for a batting average with runners in scoring position than knowing what their xwOBA is (who really knows what that means without looking it up first).
EX: Marcell Ozuna produced a .327 wOBA in 2018. But based on the quality of his contact, his xwOBA was .359 (taken from article on MLB.com).
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Let me suffice to say that I align my bag(s) very similarly to what Ignitebowling does.
I had started a reply with specifics laid out but halfway through my description, this site rebooted and erased everything I had previously written, so I just stopped.
I generally have a bag for specific house conditions, especially high friction dry houses.
The RG numbers and differential numbers are huge when it comes to selecting certain pieces and balls that fit my game, while matching up to certain lane conditions as well.
If regular house bowlers take no interest in knowing these specifics.....that's on them and clearly it limits the knowledge and heights to which they will get better.
I'm a big proponent of surface, surface, surface! And even more so now that there's no balance holes involved and some huge asymmetric cores being used in all this newer equipment.
Knowing various layouts and when to use them is also extremely useful also, as I have found out in recent tournaments.
Knowledge is power. It has acquitted me well so far.
In reference to Hickland's comparison of a 30 degree val vs a 40 degree val, you won't notice a big difference in ball motion going down lane. The difference is when the ball enters the pocket area, the 30 degree drilled ball will be sharper off the spot, and appear to hit harder. The 40 degree drilled ball will be a more controlled move through the pocket.
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The reason I don't look at RG values as much any more is most of the biggest go long and snap balls have lower RG values sub 2.50
Example ball has RG of 2.48 Diff .051 it should rev up sooner, the higher diff should help it slow down sooner and overall the ball should be great for heavy oil....Except the ball is a Phase 3 and is a skid snap monster.
This is why years ago I actually started looking at balls by performance category as needed, then read the manufactures "intended purpose" for the ball. Sometimes that isn't always clear lol but for the most part it is. If they say the ball is a skid snap monster despite the core numbers I will give them the benefit of the doubt to use on ball selection. It's paid off for me in ball selection especially across multiple brands since they all use the same high performance, upper mid, mid, lower performance categories.
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The reason I don't look at RG values as much any more is most of the biggest go long and snap balls have lower RG values sub 2.50
Example ball has RG of 2.48 Diff .051 it should rev up sooner, the higher diff should help it slow down sooner and overall the ball should be great for heavy oil....Except the ball is a Phase 3 and is a skid snap monster.
This is why years ago I actually started looking at balls by performance category as needed, then read the manufactures "intended purpose" for the ball. Sometimes that isn't always clear lol but for the most part it is. If they say the ball is a skid snap monster despite the core numbers I will give them the benefit of the doubt to use on ball selection. It's paid off for me in ball selection especially across multiple brands since they all use the same high performance, upper mid, mid, lower performance categories.
The reason the Phase 3 is a skid snap monster is because of the marriage of a cover stock that is super clean, with a big reving core that revs on the back end and not in the fronts!
To me, when I see RGs of 2.50 and higher, I don't assume heavy oil. I assume push down lane with a big hit on the back! Most of my dry lane pieces have RGs of 2.50 and higher, to go along with low differentials.
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It is just example when looking at core numbers alone they don't tell a big part of the story in terms of the ball. In most cases when the topic comes up on core numbers most of what is said about what RG and Diff do in ball reaction is true, but when you then add the coverstock you get ball reactions that core numbers alone would indicate something different then what is expected. (like the Phase 3 example when looking at the core numbers alone what the ball reaction "should be" vs when you say the ball core numbers listed is a Phase 3 and the ball of course isn't early and smooth and ideal for heavier oil conditions)
Look across any brand at their go long and snap bowling balls and a lot of them are lower RG fast reving cores. Which in most example on looking at core numbers for ball reaction would not be what is recommended for that reaction.
If that makes sense.
Most drier lane balls they do raise the RG and lower the Diff to get the ball through the heads which you would expect like in a Hustle series etc
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Hi Bowlers - My next step after identifying the exact RG is to add the Dual Angle Layout focusing on the Drilling Angle and the Pin to PAP distance. Next is the Cover Stock, Solid, Pearl, HyBrid. Note that I have left out Urethane. For the non Pro Player this is a minimal use option. Rather than use memory I jot these choices in my Bowling Notebook, from low RG to high RG. This method stack ranks the balls in an order of usage. Because of my Gold Studies I have acquired a very very large arsenal of bowling balls across the entire market, about 70. Because of my Gold Investigations I take 10 balls to every league or local tournament. Away tournaments I take 4. including a plastic spare ball. Also, when working in a Pro Shop I drilled my own pieces. Now I buy the ball, with a grease pencil layout the Dual Angle pattern and have my Pro Shop guy drill the ball. This is my method. Have fun - Gold Level ABE Coach Denny
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10 balls to league.....
Name shirt too?
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10 balls to league.....
Name shirt too?
Good cardio?
I take 6 and the only one in the bag Im positive on is the spare ball. The other 5 are a shot in the dark. I feel better picking 6 for Nationals then I do with league anymore. The Flex oil machine is more then our center is capable of operating and it seems to be an issues for other places as well
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10 balls to league.....
Name shirt too?
Good cardio?
I take 6 and the only one in the bag Im positive on is the spare ball. The other 5 are a shot in the dark. I feel better picking 6 for Nationals then I do with league anymore. The Flex oil machine is more then our center is capable of operating and it seems to be an issues for other places as well
Wow! You too?? Lately our THS league shot has been changing more than a Youtube model's designer clothing haul video! You never know what the hell the shot is gonna look like. That being said, I still just take six balls.
I only take 10 or 11 balls to tournaments. That's way too much work to carry 10 balls to league every other day.
I don't drill my own pieces but I do understand the dual angle method and as such when I go to my pro shop driller, I ask for layouts in the dual angle terms that he and I understand.
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Hi Bowlers - I bowl in 4 leagues and 4 different centers plus tournaments. It is surprising the difference between each center. All are synthetic. All Leagues - They are supposed to be a fresh oil pattern. Two of the centers you can see the lanes being oiled. So, which is the best arsenal structure? I have developed a computer program to allow me to record every game and every ball used. I than summarize the inputs into various reports. This routine helps me select the balls for today's arsenal. My personality is that I always do more than required. I have fun! Coach Denny
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10 balls to league.....
Name shirt too?
Good cardio?
I take 6 and the only one in the bag Im positive on is the spare ball. The other 5 are a shot in the dark. I feel better picking 6 for Nationals then I do with league anymore. The Flex oil machine is more then our center is capable of operating and it seems to be an issues for other places as well
Wow! You too?? Lately our THS league shot has been changing more than a Youtube model's designer clothing haul video! You never know what the hell the shot is gonna look like. That being said, I still just take six balls.
I only take 10 or 11 balls to tournaments. That's way too much work to carry 10 balls to league every other day.
I don't drill my own pieces but I do understand the dual angle method and as such when I go to my pro shop driller, I ask for layouts in the dual angle terms that he and I understand.
Curious do you know what oil machine they use? The Flex machine has an unbelievable amount of capabilities but I think it is over kill for most places and their employees to maintain.
League shots are very inconsistent from night to night. More then once for different monthly tournaments they have had issues including this past weekend the second squad it oiled but with zero oil in the middle of the lane. The gutters have oil but middle had zero oil. As in you could walk down it safely zero oil. It is always something. After watching Kegel videos about the machine and the up keep I get it. Its too much for most places.
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I oversimplify during league. I take plastic, roll early, roll late and weak cover low flaring (usually entry level) dry lane ball. If I can’t hit the league shot with these 4, it ain’t the ball’s fault.
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For league play on a house pattern, I take 2 balls (plus my spare ball), an IQ Tour solid and either my Phase 3 or my Idol Synergy, just depends which one I feel like using that day.
For my sport shot league I bring 4 (plus my spare ball), I bring the 3 mentioned above plus my only asymmetric, the Physix.
I use the same drilling on every ball and just play around with surface to adjust ball reaction and it seems to work pretty well for me. If I had a 10 ball arsenal I would mix in different layouts to get more separation but what I have works well for me 95% of the time.