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l_rockwell10

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How To...
« on: March 14, 2007, 09:52:34 AM »
How can u make the ball go straiter without redrilling or getting a new ball? thanks
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Bowler19

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Re: How To...
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2007, 05:57:29 PM »
What I do when I need less hook is I either move my index finger closer to my middle finger or I move my pinky away from my ring finger. Also you can change wrist positions. Break your wrist so it is not cupped and is straight.
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weazer

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Re: How To...
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2007, 07:22:57 PM »
throw it suitcase stile
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Aloarjr810

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Re: How To...
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2007, 07:30:15 PM »
Another way is to take your ring finger out of the hole.
I move my index finger in and my pinky out myself.

Suitcasing the ball doesn't work all the time. I threw my Black widow that way
and got it to track right in the middle of the grip.
But it had a 4" flare pattern though, it hooked hard!
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greggo

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Re: How To...
« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2007, 09:03:43 PM »
quote:
Break your wrist so it is not cupped and is straight.

Agreed
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DON DRAPER

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Re: How To...
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2007, 09:11:31 PM »
throwing the ball straight is my "a" game. it comes naturally to me. my wrist is straight---no cupping or cocking. your ball speed will usually be faster. i'm a lower rev player so that helps. your axis rotation needs to be less than 30 degrees....and closer to 20 would be better. we're talking about coming up the back of the ball...no side turn. you may need to sand the ball to a finer grit and/or polish the ball as well.
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l_rockwell10

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Re: How To...
« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2007, 09:55:52 PM »
doesn't sanding the ball make it hook more? and does anybody have a video showing going up the back of the ball and putting side roll on it? thanks
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Aloarjr810

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Re: How To...
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2007, 01:01:52 AM »
quote:
doesn't sanding the ball make it hook more? and does anybody have a video showing going up the back of the ball and putting side roll on it? thanks
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Polishing makes a ball go longer and hook harder. Sanding makes a ball hook less but hook earlier.

This has to do with the footprint of the ball on the lane surface.

A smooth ball has more surface contact area on the dry part of the lane and less on the oily part.

A sanded ball has less surface contact area when on the dry, but when on the oily part its able to get more surface contact with the lane thru the oil than the smooth ball. Thus more traction in the oil.

You can compare this to tire with tread vs one without tread.

The tire with tread can grip a wet road better than a tire without tread because it can bite thru the water. The smooth tire would just slide on the water (hydroplaning).

The tire without tread would have the most grip on a dry road do to the increased surface contact it has. Like the slicks on a on dragster give more traction.
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DerHornen

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Re: How To...
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2007, 08:45:18 AM »
quote:


Polishing makes a ball go longer and hook harder. Sanding makes a ball hook less but hook earlier.


That's almost correct.  A sanded ball will hook more, but it won't look like it hooks as much because it doesn't save as much energy for that "pop" on the backend.

Unless, of course, you have a sanded ball and not enough oil on the lane.  Then you could have burnout and the polished ball would indeed hook more than the sanded ball.  Keep in mind that I'm talking about using the SAME ball in polished or sanded state.  You're not comparing apples to apples if you talk about different surfaces on different balls.

Edited on 3/16/2007 8:47 AM
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Aloarjr810

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Re: How To...
« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2007, 02:50:53 PM »
quote:

That's almost correct.  A sanded ball will hook more, but it won't look like it hooks as much because it doesn't save as much energy for that "pop" on the backend.

Unless, of course, you have a sanded ball and not enough oil on the lane.  Then you could have burnout and the polished ball would indeed hook more than the sanded ball.  Keep in mind that I'm talking about using the SAME ball in polished or sanded state.  You're not comparing apples to apples if you talk about different surfaces on different balls.


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"The Coaching Eye Volume #1 - Issue #3 September 2002"
How the Surface Bumpiness (Surface Roughness) Affects the Roll of the Ball

As the surface bumpiness increases, the overall amount of break usually increases. This is most easily seen as the sanding state of the surface of the ball. As the sanding grit number decreases, the overall amount of break increases.

In the published ball guides, balls are sometimes listed with ratings for both the smooth and sanded state. The sanded state “almost always” has more hook potential.

There are exceptions, however. When a bowling ball has too much roughness (traction), it will do well in the early part of the oil but may not get enough friction (rubbing) at the rear part of the lane. The result is that the sanded ball actually breaks less than the smooth surface ball of the same type.

This is especially true of an aggressive reactive resin ball. That type ball does extremely well on the dry back end. And, it is mostly because of friction, not traction. If you sand the ball, you decrease the total surface of the ball that makes contact with the lane surface. Hence, the ball will break less, not more."
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So I think we are both basically correct.

I think using terms like hook and pop here is not quite right. It should be something like directional change or break.

The sanded ball has more traction in the oil and starts losing energy earlier.
Thus producing a earlier movement. But it has less surface friction and will produce less directional change/break than the same ball polished.

The polished ball will have less traction in the oil but store more energy. Thud producing a later movement.But it will also have more surface friction, this plus the stored energy will produce more directional change/break as compared to the same ball in the sanded state.


Also any loss of energy will reduce your amount of "Hook/Pop" some amount.  burnout is loss of energy too. Its just total loss of energy.
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