BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: lilpossum1 on April 23, 2014, 08:54:58 AM
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What are some cheap oil removal contraptions other than the water bath?
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There is no pro shop in the area with a ball oven
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No contraptions that are really cheap, everything is priced pretty close to everything else. You could get a personal oven, but it would be several years before you made your money back on it, or at least got your money's worth of use out of it.
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No contraptions that are really cheap, everything is priced pretty close to everything else. You could get a personal oven, but it would be several years before you made your money back on it, or at least got your money's worth of use out of it.
It depends on how many balls he has, how often he bowls, and how well he cleans his equipment after use. Most proshops in my area charge $15-$20 to revive a ball, so at $200 for a personal unit, it might not take as long as you're suggesting.
For the price of a single ball, I felt that a personal revivor was a good investment. If it keeps a single ball alive that I'd otherwise have to toss, I have my payback.
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I generally clean mine after each use. I have been slacking lately though, and I have been throwing my older equipment which has a lot of games without an oil removal. Also, my dads arson pearl is pretty much full of oil, so I will hit that one too.
On a side note, a friend just told me how he removed the oil from his first blood and brought it back from death. He took a five gallon bucket, drilled 6 1" holes 3 inches from the bottom, put his ball in it on an empty duck tape roll, put the lid on, drilled a hole in the top to stick a hair dryer through, and ran it on low for a couple hours. Has anyone done anything like this? Is it safe?
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No contraptions that are really cheap, everything is priced pretty close to everything else. You could get a personal oven, but it would be several years before you made your money back on it, or at least got your money's worth of use out of it.
I don't know about that. A DIY oven based off a food dehydrator would probably run you under $100. Even the commercial, personal ovens which seem to use a similar dehydrator heating element (if not the same one) are around $200. So if your proshop charges you $25 per deoiling, that's 8 sessions. I know for sure that I do more than 8 balls a year myself, so YMMV.
On a side note, a friend just told me how he removed the oil from his first blood and brought it back from death. He took a five gallon bucket, drilled 6 1" holes 3 inches from the bottom, put his ball in it on an empty duck tape roll, put the lid on, drilled a hole in the top to stick a hair dryer through, and ran it on low for a couple hours. Has anyone done anything like this? Is it safe?
Maybe? It's really all about temperature control. If you can keep the air inside the bucket circulating and at a safe temperature (I certainly wouldn't go over 140 degrees at the very top end - I'd try staying closer to 120 if possible), it's pretty safe. I've seen other contraptions with a hair drier, cardboard boxes, and a thermometer that people have had luck with, but I don't think I'd go that route personally. I'd be weary of using a hair drier, portable heater, fireplace, dishwasher, etc. if only because I wouldn't be able to precisely control the temperature. Holding the temperature steady (and at a safe temp) will provide you with the safest, most reliable oil extraction possible, IMO.
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I have all the stuff to make one, so I may go for it. I will stick a food thermometer through the side of the bucket and will do a test of it just to be on the safe side
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Oh, I didn't know they were that cheap, I thought they were like 600 bucks or something . .
No contraptions that are really cheap, everything is priced pretty close to everything else. You could get a personal oven, but it would be several years before you made your money back on it, or at least got your money's worth of use out of it.
It depends on how many balls he has, how often he bowls, and how well he cleans his equipment after use. Most proshops in my area charge $15-$20 to revive a ball, so at $200 for a personal unit, it might not take as long as you're suggesting.
For the price of a single ball, I felt that a personal revivor was a good investment. If it keeps a single ball alive that I'd otherwise have to toss, I have my payback.
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Yea, Innovative came out with a personal Revivor for about $200:
http://shop.innovativebowling.com/Personal-Bowling-Ball-Revivor-PerRevivor.htm;jsessionid=2AA13D42153FB54AA5AAB62F708DC40C.m1plqscsfapp04
It looks almost identical to the more expensive NuBall unit I have.
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I hit mine with non-acetone fingernail polish remover after every session. I've got a Storm Flash Force (http://www.ballreviews.com/storm/flash-force-t511.0.html) that has every bit of 400 games and still squeaks like new.
Also, I have no problem throwing a ball in the oven at 150 for 45 minutes if I have to.
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Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle. Works like a charm.
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Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle. Works like a charm.
Done this quite a few times myself. Always seems to work great.
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+1
Easily the cheapest contraption.
Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle. Works like a charm.
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I have used a large rubber maid container with lid that will fit a ball and a food dehydrator inside. I got the dehydrator on Amazon for $20.00. The containers are usually $10-15 at walmart. Works perfect as a homemade rejuvenator.
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The instructions in how to use your dishwasher to de-oil your bowling balls is well documented. If you have one, it is one of the most effective, safest, and inexepensive ways to maintain your bowling balls. Do a search.
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Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle. Works like a charm.
My only concern with this would be how the temperature is controlled. I've read that some dishwashers heat up the water to 130 degrees, while others may go as high as 170 degrees. I'd personally feel totally comfortable with the former, but wouldn't expose my equipment to the latter.
I don't think you'll find a commercial oil-extraction unit that will go much higher than 140. That tells me that above and beyond 140 not only is not necessary, but also that it could be potentially unsafe.
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Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle. Works like a charm.
My only concern with this would be how the temperature is controlled. I've read that some dishwashers heat up the water to 130 degrees, while others may go as high as 170 degrees. I'd personally feel totally comfortable with the former, but wouldn't expose my equipment to the latter.
I don't think you'll find a commercial oil-extraction unit that will go much higher than 140. That tells me that above and beyond 140 not only is not necessary, but also that it could be potentially unsafe.
Niether will your dishwasher. Turn off sanitize feature and heated drying. Can only get as hot as your water heater is set for. Most are set no higher than 125 degrees to prevent scalding. If you want to actually learn about it, go to BBE and search for the DeTox thread. You'll find all the data there to come to an educated decision. You can search this forum also.
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I hit mine with non-acetone fingernail polish remover after every session. I've got a Storm Flash Force (http://www.ballreviews.com/storm/flash-force-t511.0.html) that has every bit of 400 games and still squeaks like new.
Also, I have no problem throwing a ball in the oven at 150 for 45 minutes if I have to.
Do you know that non-acetone fingernail polish remover is also on USBC's Not Approved Ever list? A partial copy of the list is below. -- JohnP
NOT APPROVED EVER
Kerosene, gasoline, other fuels
Master Ball Cleaner by Master Industries
Most commercial solvents (xylol, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, chloro-form, methyl hydrate)
David Greco Cleaner
Dull It by INX Corp.
Ethers, esters and ketones (MEK)
Cutex (acetone OR non-acetone nail polish remover)
Armor-All
Acetone
Product
Pure Wash Ball Wash by LMB International (Lane Masters)
Updated:
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Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle. Works like a charm.
My only concern with this would be how the temperature is controlled. I've read that some dishwashers heat up the water to 130 degrees, while others may go as high as 170 degrees. I'd personally feel totally comfortable with the former, but wouldn't expose my equipment to the latter.
I don't think you'll find a commercial oil-extraction unit that will go much higher than 140. That tells me that above and beyond 140 not only is not necessary, but also that it could be potentially unsafe.
You read correctly. Many modern dishwashers have a heating element that automatically heats the water to temperatures well beyond what comes through the tap.
In "normal, no sanitize, no heat" mode, my KitchenAid takes the water up to 140 degrees. Even if I bump it down from "normal" to "Light/China" mode, the temperature is only reduced to 135 degrees. Both of these temperatures exceed warranty limits published by many ball manufacturers.
BTW, for anyone who questions these numbers, I'm reading them from my KitchenAid Reference Guild as I'm writing this. The guide covers 7 of their models, so this dishwasher behavior is definitely not a one off.
If you want to try the dishwasher method, be sure to reference your manual first. If it's not clear, call the technical support help line provided by your dishwasher manufacturer. Better to be safe than sorry.
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For anybody that wants to know the real scoop, check out the Jayhawk DeTox thread on BBE. Numerous dishwasher brands listed, the temps they go to. Why, there are even a couple of State plumbing codes listed concerning hot water. It would appear that a user wants to make this a pissing match, yet again. As I said, check it out and form your own educated opinion on how to do this procedure. To my knowledge there has not been a single report of the dishwasher harming a ball like there have with people who tried using an over. There's many ways to do it, decide for yourself.
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No 'pissing match' at all………
If you have any factual issues with anything I've posted, please do share. This is a forum for the exchange of accurate information. There is clearly something you believe is wrong. Is it:
1) That many dishwashers heat water beyond what comes of of the tap? You know, kind of like what's described in this how stuff works link:
http://home.howstuffworks.com/dishwasher.htm (http://home.howstuffworks.com/dishwasher.htm)
2) That many KitchenAid dishwasher models do in fact heat the water to temperatures that exceed some ball manufacturer heat exposure warranty limits?
I didn't say not to use the dishwasher. I said to do research to ensure the water in your respective unit doesn't exceed safe thresholds.
Now, please, for the benefit of all here, provide corrections to anything I stated that's wrong.
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Well, if you can't find a two by four to get the message thru, I guess you just use data.
Please note that "sanitizing" dishes occurs at temps of 155* F. All these high end dishwashers have a sanitize or heavy soil cycle where they will heat the the water. Please note the temps that they will heat the water to. THIS IS WHY I HAVE STATED NUMEROUS TIMES TO USE THE REGULAR CYCLE AND YOU DO NOT USE THE SANITIZE OR HEAVY SOIL FEATURE AND NEVER USE THE HEATED DRY. Most dishwashers operate at home water temp which is usually somewhere between 120*-140* F. State of Ohio buidling code: 1002.2.2 Temperature limitation. Where a combination potable water-heating and space-heating system requires water for space heating at temperatures higher than 140ºF (60ºC), a temperature actuated mixing valve that conforms to ASSE 1017 shall be provided to temper the water supplied to the potable hot water distribution system to a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC) or less in accordance with the plumbing code. This is Michigan's: R 408.30735 Hot water supply required. Tempered water shall be supplied through a
water temperature limiting device that conforms to ASSE 1070, as referenced in chapter 13 of the code, and shall limit the tempered water to a maximum of
110 degrees Fahrenheit (43 degrees Celsius).
To actually think all water will not evaporate out of a bowling ball after the dishwasher method is ridiculous. You never heard Mo Pinel be concerned about that when he recommended the hot water bath.
The Miele G5105SCU is one of our highest-rated machines, a well balanced dishwasher that offers flexibility and great performance in addition to sanitation capabilities. It’s also quite expensive.
Through our tests, we found the G5105SCU reached at least 155 degrees on two cycles. The SaniWash option reached 156.8 degrees, while the longer-lasting and better-performing Pots & Pans cycle reached a more comfortable 164.4 degrees.
The GE GLDT696TSS is considerably more affordable than the Miele, although the performance is not quite as impressive.
Nonetheless, our tests found the GE’s Sanitize rinse reached a satisfactory 157.6 degrees. While the Heavy cycle also got pretty hot (154.4 degrees), it wasn’t quite enough to sanitize.
This Bosch Integra shares is one of the best machines we’ve tested, as well as one of the most expensive. It has a lot to offer. When it comes to sanitation, the SHX98M09UC has a whopping three cycles that surpass 155 degrees: Super Auto Wash (156.5), Auto Delicate Wash (157), and Auto Wash + Sani (160.9). It’s important to note here that just because some of these washes reached 155 degrees does not mean they are completely thorough in killing bacteria, as it is all about the duration of high temperature exposure. For this reason, put your trust in the specifically designated â€sanitize†cycles.
A very large and portable machine, the Maytag MDC4809PAB is highly efficient and will serve most high-operating kitchens, even if its features are lacking and its performance forgettable.
Like the Bosch Integra, the MDC4809PAB has a Sanitize option, and it can be added to any of the main cycles, thereby drawing up the heat to sanitization levels. In our tests, the Normal cycle with the Sani option was able to reach a fairly consistent 156 degrees.
Once again, these temps are reached when you push the button on your dishwasher to sanitize your dishes. Normally your dishwasher will run at the temp your water heater is set. This is usually between 120-130 degrees.
Like I said, you don't want to take advantage of the safe, convenient dishwasher or you don't have a dishwasher, make an ultrasonic cleaner I linked to, or start carving up plastic buckets and mounting dehydrators to them.
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Please note that "sanitizing" dishes occurs at temps of 155* F. All these high end dishwashers have a sanitize or heavy soil cycle where they will heat the the water. Please note the temps that they will heat the water to. THIS IS WHY I HAVE STATED NUMEROUS TIMES TO USE THE REGULAR CYCLE AND YOU DO NOT USE THE SANITIZE OR HEAVY SOIL FEATURE AND NEVER USE THE HEATED DRY. Most dishwashers operate at home water temp which is usually somewhere between 120*-140* F.
No arguments with most of what you stated above…..
But I clearly said the following in my first reply: When using "Normal" (regular cycle), no sanitize, no heated dry, the water temperature is brought up to 145 degrees. If I do the same thing using the more gentle "Light/China" cycle, the water still reaches 135 degrees.
I don't know why you injected the heavy soil feature, sanitize, or heated dry into the conversation. I made no reference to those features at all.
It doesn't matter what water heater codes and restrictions might be in place before water is added to dishwashers with more sophisticated temperature controls. What's important is what happens after the water transfer takes place and the dishwasher takes over.
Many dishwashers (certainly many KitchenAid models) heat the water to specific temperatures regardless of all the additional features being turned off. Why do you think there is a difference in final temperature between "Normal" and "Light?China" mode?? Because the dishwasher is optimizing it's water temperature based on the mode selected.
This is all fact without a lot of wiggle room. I'm sure there are a lot of older and/or more basic models that do nothing but take the water in and wash. I'm not disputing that.
But because all dishwashers do not operate the same way, it makes sense to do some research on your particular model to know what you're getting into. Anything above 125 degrees for many balls could cause damage and void warranties. If it turns out the temperature exceeds what the ball manufacturer says is safe, but you're married to the method, proceed at your own risk. I don't know why these basic concepts should be threatening to anyone.
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Many dishwashers (certainly many KitchenAid models) heat the water to specific temperatures regardless of all the additional features being turned off. Why do you think there is a difference in final temperature between "Normal" and "Light?China" mode?? Because the dishwasher is optimizing it's water temperature based on the mode selected.
Oh, I don't know. Because most dishwashers run at the water temp of the hot water heater. Taken right from the Whirlpool dishwasher manual:
Start or Resume a Cycle
■ Run hot water at the sink nearest your dishwasher until the
water is hot. Turn off water. For best dishwashing results, water
should be 120ºF (49ºC) as it enters the dishwasher.
■ For models with controls on top of the door, select
wash cycle, option and press START/RESUME
before closing the door. Push door firmly closed.
The door latches automatically. Select the wash
cycle, options and press STAR/RESUME or press
START/RESUME to repeat the same cycle and
options as in the previous wash cycle.
■ You can add an item anytime at the beginning of the cycle.
Open the door slowly and add the item. Close the door firmly.
Press START/RESUME.
Please try to understand the above. It's not rocket science. To clean food off dishes, water temp needs to be 120F-125F degrees farenheit. This is the temp water heaters are set at. If you need to sanitize and kill germs, you have the option on most dishwashers to push the sanitize button and the dishwasher will heat the water to the 150F-155F degree range. Again, THIS IS AN OPTION Most dishwashers have a sensor to delay the wash cycle if the water temp falls below the 120-125 temp range as your hot water emptys and can't keep up. Again, it does not heat it hotter than that unless you choose the option to have it do that.
Again, there is practically no danger to your bowling ball with most dishwashers in use today. As I said, where have you ever heard a report of a ball damaged in a dishwasher, tub, or bucket? You haven't because it doesn't happen.
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Many dishwashers (certainly many KitchenAid models) heat the water to specific temperatures regardless of all the additional features being turned off. Why do you think there is a difference in final temperature between "Normal" and "Light?China" mode?? Because the dishwasher is optimizing it's water temperature based on the mode selected.
Oh, I don't know. Because most dishwashers run at the water temp of the hot water heater.
But not all do. That's the point. I referenced that there are seven separate KitchenAid models I'm aware of that don't run at the water temp of the hot water heater. Logic says there are more across different brands. I don't know (and you don't know) how many do and don't, but the point is that not all dishwashers are created equal.
And if that's the case (it is), why not make the effort to understand how your specific dishwasher operates and make an educated decision on how to proceed from there?
If I'm dishwashing a ball that has a warranty to temperatures up to 125 degrees, but the water temp is going to be 135-145 degrees, I'm going to want to know and decide how to go from there. Most people would take this approach. It seems pretty simple.
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Many dishwashers (certainly many KitchenAid models) heat the water to specific temperatures regardless of all the additional features being turned off. Why do you think there is a difference in final temperature between "Normal" and "Light?China" mode?? Because the dishwasher is optimizing it's water temperature based on the mode selected.
Oh, I don't know. Because most dishwashers run at the water temp of the hot water heater.
But not all do. That's the point. I referenced that there are seven separate KitchenAid models I'm aware of that don't run at the water temp of the hot water heater. Logic says there are more across different brands. I don't know (and you don't know) how many do and don't, but the point is that not all dishwashers are created equal.
And if that's the case (it is), why not make the effort to understand how your specific dishwasher operates and make an educated decision on how to proceed from there?
If I'm dishwashing a ball that has a warranty to temperatures up to 125 degrees, but the water temp is going to be 135-145 degrees, I'm going to want to know and decide how to go from there. Most people would take this approach. It seems pretty simple.
Most people understand the meaning of the word "most". Perhaps you can look it up in the dictionary. I really don't understand why you don't understand the starement that people must educate themselves. Maybe its because you don't enter facts to help them decide. I do. Maybe its because you don't understand plumbing and appliances. I do. Maybe its just because you don't know when to let it go.
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Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle. Works like a charm.
My only concern with this would be how the temperature is controlled. I've read that some dishwashers heat up the water to 130 degrees, while others may go as high as 170 degrees. I'd personally feel totally comfortable with the former, but wouldn't expose my equipment to the latter.
I don't think you'll find a commercial oil-extraction unit that will go much higher than 140. That tells me that above and beyond 140 not only is not necessary, but also that it could be potentially unsafe.
You read correctly. Many modern dishwashers have a heating element that automatically heats the water to temperatures well beyond what comes through the tap.
In "normal, no sanitize, no heat" mode, my KitchenAid takes the water up to 140 degrees. Even if I bump it down from "normal" to "Light/China" mode, the temperature is only reduced to 135 degrees. Both of these temperatures exceed warranty limits published by many ball manufacturers.
BTW, for anyone who questions these numbers, I'm reading them from my KitchenAid Reference Guild as I'm writing this. The guide covers 7 of their models, so this dishwasher behavior is definitely not a one off.
If you want to try the dishwasher method, be sure to reference your manual first. If it's not clear, call the technical support help line provided by your dishwasher manufacturer. Better to be safe than sorry.
Yep, just not letting it go. ::)
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Thanks for the insightful post. ::)