BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: Strapper_Squared on February 16, 2018, 02:32:58 PM
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What are the current thoughts on equipment for the burn?
I remember a year or two ago, I bought a loco pearl... Just to find out that on the real dry, it was crazy strongl
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What are the current thoughts on equipment for the burn?
I remember a year or two ago, I bought a loco pearl... Just to find out that on the real dry, it was crazy strongl
S^2
Depends on a whole lot of factors but I always just say Blue Hammer these days. Works for my wife and makes a great spare ball if nothing else and reasonably priced. What am I not allowed to mention pieces now?
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What are the current thoughts on equipment for the burn?
I remember a year or two ago, I bought a loco pearl... Just to find out that on the real dry, it was crazy strongl
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That’s exactly why I always say there is NO SUCH THING as a “dry lane†reactive resin ball.
Every attempt I have ever made to find one only ended up with something that wouldn’t read the pattern until it was burnt up, and then it would hook as much as anything else.
About the best attempt at it that I ever came across is the long discontinued Visionary Blue/Green Centaur.
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Track Tundra is my go to ball for when I need a controlled move to the pocket that does not rocket off the dry.
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I usually drill a weaker ball with the pin 2" from my pap.
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What are the current thoughts on equipment for the burn?
I remember a year or two ago, I bought a loco pearl... Just to find out that on the real dry, it was crazy strongl
S^2
That’s exactly why I always say there is NO SUCH THING as a “dry lane†reactive resin ball.
Every attempt I have ever made to find one only ended up with something that wouldn’t read the pattern until it was burnt up, and then it would hook as much as anything else.
About the best attempt at it that I ever came across is the long discontinued Visionary Blue/Green Centaur.
Darreyl,
I wonder if it's just not something to do with your release.
Having had several 16 lb., 15 lb. and now 14 lb. Blue/Green Centaurs, I know something about them. Believe me, there are/were more than a few balls out there like them. Some you may be familiar with, some you may not:
- AMF Orbit Extreme
- Lanemasters Wasp
- Lord Field Exodus Pearl.
- Lord Field Crucial
- Brunswick Avalanche Slide
- Brunswick Monster Slay/R
- Lane#1 Bullet
- Brunswick Slingshot
I might have even more rev dominant than you are and some of these balls I could barely get to move on some extraordinarily light oil. Many were VERY urethane-like in their movement.
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They're not reactives but the two balls I have that I have yet to see move much at all on any condition is my Ogre Urethane and my Gunsmoke Cobra. Plastic straight.
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I usually drill a weaker ball with the pin 2" from my pap.
Me too.
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Darreyl,
I wonder if it's just not something to do with your release.
Having had several 16 lb., 15 lb. and now 14 lb. Blue/Green Centaurs, I know something about them. Believe me, there are/were more than a few balls out there like them. Some you may be familiar with, some you may not:
- AMF Orbit Extreme
- Lanemasters Wasp
- Lord Field Exodus Pearl.
- Lord Field Crucial
- Brunswick Avalanche Slide
- Brunswick Monster Slay/R
- Lane#1 Bullet
- Brunswick Slingshot
I might have even more rev dominant than you are and some of these balls I could barely get to move on some extraordinarily light oil. Many were VERY urethane-like in their movement.
Yea, that orbit extreme wasn’t bad, but the rest on that list that I’ve tried fall into the “didn’t work well for me†categorie.
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I have a pin in palm GB2 which for me is about a 5 3/4" pin to PAP and a ton of polish on it. The polish and low flare layout and perfect for getting it up the lane on the true burn. Because it's a GB2, it's still smooth enough to not hockey stick downlane and it carries exceptionally well.
IMO, companies only nail a true dry lane ball once every couple of years. It's always a matter of cover & low flare layout. Most "dry lane" balls now still have aggressive covers on them.
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For me the AMF Orbit Extreme, Lane#1 Bullet, and the Slingshot were natural dryish lane pieces. The Slingshot would still need a layout change to truly handle the burn.
I have several pieces that I use for the burn. All have pin down layouts or Rico layouts on them.
An old AMF Ninja, pin almost on pap; Scout Reactive pin in hand; Sonic-X, leveraged layout, pin down; Fat Man pin unknown.
One of my most useful pieces is my MoRich N-Sane LevRG ball with the pin under fingers. Many folks have complained about this ball never moving regardless of layout....and that is exactly why I use it on the burn!
I also have a gold, AZO Fantasy-X, Super Carbide with a stacked layout that is excellent on the burn! I have used it in tournaments and shocked and amazed folks who could not play the same are and get my results.
All this to say....if you want a ball for the burn, find an older piece with a mild coverstock and add layout as needed!
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Darreyl,
I wonder if it's just not something to do with your release.
Having had several 16 lb., 15 lb. and now 14 lb. Blue/Green Centaurs, I know something about them. Believe me, there are/were more than a few balls out there like them. Some you may be familiar with, some you may not:
- AMF Orbit Extreme
- Lanemasters Wasp
- Lord Field Exodus Pearl.
- Lord Field Crucial
- Brunswick Avalanche Slide
- Brunswick Monster Slay/R
- Lane#1 Bullet
- Brunswick Slingshot
I might have even more rev dominant than you are and some of these balls I could barely get to move on some extraordinarily light oil. Many were VERY urethane-like in their movement.
Yea, that orbit extreme wasn’t bad, but the rest on that list that I’ve tried fall into the “didn’t work well for me†categorie.
The Slay/R didnt work for you? You mustve been bowling in the parking lot, unpaved. I had a 5.5 inch pin Slay/R and that thing did nothing.
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Best dry lane ball I ever had was a Desert Heat with a 5.5 inch pin above the fingers. Thing did 0.
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Darreyl,
I wonder if it's just not something to do with your release.
Having had several 16 lb., 15 lb. and now 14 lb. Blue/Green Centaurs, I know something about them. Believe me, there are/were more than a few balls out there like them. Some you may be familiar with, some you may not:
- AMF Orbit Extreme
- Lanemasters Wasp
- Lord Field Exodus Pearl.
- Lord Field Crucial
- Brunswick Avalanche Slide
- Brunswick Monster Slay/R
- Lane#1 Bullet
- Brunswick Slingshot
I might have even more rev dominant than you are and some of these balls I could barely get to move on some extraordinarily light oil. Many were VERY urethane-like in their movement.
Yea, that orbit extreme wasn’t bad, but the rest on that list that I’ve tried fall into the “didn’t work well for me†categorie.
The Slay/R didnt work for you? You mustve been bowling in the parking lot, unpaved. I had a 5.5 inch pin Slay/R and that thing did nothing.
No, it did.
I just meant, at times, maybe when the house accidentally put down some oil, these are such mild balls that, then, they hardly moved.
I had used the Slay/R several years back playing a nice small swing shot, maybe 12 out 7/8, when some local hacks were trying to use very strong balls, like Scorchin' Inferno, and they couldn't get their balls to make the turn. My being rev dominant and most of them having been speed dominant may have entered the picture.
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Nobody ever mentions Columbia Scout 3 piece pancake weight block.The old superflex cover.Very cheap and are very weak.Weaker than the breezes.Trust me I have tried all the so called low end balls.Most low end balls are as strong as medium balls.
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Nobody ever mentions Columbia Scout 3 piece pancake weight block.The old superflex cover.Very cheap and are very weak.Weaker than the breezes.Trust me I have tried all the so called low end balls
The pancake core virtually removes the core from any participation in the ball reaction.
.Most low end balls are as strong as medium balls.
So untrue. I can't even believe you said this. I suspect this involves a speed dominant delivery.
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Nobody ever mentions Columbia Scout 3 piece pancake weight block.The old superflex cover.Very cheap and are very weak.Weaker than the breezes.Trust me I have tried all the so called low end balls
The pancake core virtually removes the core from any participation in the ball reaction.
.Most low end balls are as strong as medium balls.
So untrue. I can't even believe you said this. I suspect this involves a speed dominant delivery.
That's me where on fresh THS everything under a Hy-Road goes dead straight. How about the Seismic Desperado for the burn? That thing has a strong core too so don't have to give up the hitting power.
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The Slay/R didnt work for you? You mustve been bowling in the parking lot, unpaved. I had a 5.5 inch pin Slay/R and that thing did nothing.
Didn’t work for me, and I tried two different ones.
Like yours, they did nothing.
That is, until they did, and then they did too much.
Not predictable for me at all.
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Should have known hack would throw in a comment.Yes I said most low end balls are strong as medium stuff.Cyclones have over .50 diff gb 10.7 cover equal STRONG.900 Global low end Boost .43 diff.Didn't say all said Most.Unless you are maybe under 300 rr they may not be strong for you.
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Should have known hack would throw in a comment.Yes I said most low end balls are strong as medium stuff.Cyclones have over .50 diff gb 10.7 cover equal STRONG.900 Global low end Boost .43 diff.Didn't say all said Most.Unless you are maybe under 300 rr they may not be strong for you.
For the record I totally agree with you which is why I bought a Blue Hammer for my wife as I didn't trust any of the reactives to always go straight like she wanted (wanted her to have ball with a non pancake core) even with surface management.
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20-year old Matrix Conquest with the pin about 5.5 inches away from PAP and the thumb drilled dead into the MB will do the trick. That thing hooks less than my XXXL spare ball some nights.
I think it's true that there's really no such thing as dry-lane resin, provided you mean if you drill it with a leverage drill just like you do your main stuff. What I've found most people mean when they ask this question is more like: "I want something with the same hook shape as my strike ball so that when the lanes turn to sand I can just switch equipment and throw the same ball on the same mark and get the same reaction as I get from my hook monster on the fresh."
In the current state of resin technology, that doesn't exist. By an older piece of equipment with a three-generations-old cover technology and you might get close, though.
Jess
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I probably should pick up two urethane like reactives and throw them on house. Hate throwing nearly anything that is strong front to back on house. Urethane works great for me on house, but I don't want to screw everyone. Scout looks enticing.
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20-year old Matrix Conquest with the pin about 5.5 inches away from PAP and the thumb drilled dead into the MB will do the trick. That thing hooks less than my XXXL spare ball some nights.
I think it's true that there's really no such thing as dry-lane resin, provided you mean if you drill it with a leverage drill just like you do your main stuff. What I've found most people mean when they ask this question is more like: "I want something with the same hook shape as my strike ball so that when the lanes turn to sand I can just switch equipment and throw the same ball on the same mark and get the same reaction as I get from my hook monster on the fresh."
In the current state of resin technology, that doesn't exist. By an older piece of equipment with a three-generations-old cover technology and you might get close, though.
Jess
I think what I bolded above is accurate. That's what I'm looking for on drier lanes. If the condition is so dry that I have to use my Storm Mix spare ball for the strike shot, I'm probably not going to bowl. Period.
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power groove dry/r
http://www.ballreviews.com/brunswick/power-groove-dryr-t682.0.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15-4oz-tw-2-pin-3-2008-Brunswick-Mexico-Power-Groove-Dry-R-GREEN-PRL-CHROME/391977095091?hash=item5b43a7cfb3:g:vGQAAOSwKtlWlpWY
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It's a good point. Trying to set up a buddy with a dry lane ball. Drilled a Rhino with a 2" pin. Claimed that it hooked at the arrows. It does have a 500/ polish cover... Maybe taking to 4k will help some, but as all have said, I suspect most are going to hook early on the dry.
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Smaller pin to pap drills are going to control the hook more. If it is a "reactive", it is still going to hook, but will at least hook earlier and hopefully control the back part of the lane. Power groove dry/r was the weakest ball I found in recent. Unless you go get a early 90's reactive. If you want to reduce the hook on something you already have try neo-tac/brunswick control it or powerhouse/ebonite/track delayed reaction.