BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: CincyBowler82 on March 02, 2015, 10:35:51 AM
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So I started a new league this year at a local house. The lanes are pretty dry compared to other leagues I've been in. It was suggested by someone I know well in bowling to pick up the Arson Low Flare Solid for a dryer shot. So I bought it. I told the guy at the pro-shop I needed it to be non-aggressive so it won't hook that much on a dry shot. This is the pro-shop in the bowling alley I am bowling at so he knows how dry the lanes are. He drilled it with the pin centered above the fingers. I threw it on that shot and can't seem to keep it on the lane. I rev it quite a bit but my speed only stays around 15-15.50. So I'm about average or just below in speed. So I actually resorted back to my old Storm Eraser and I'm hitting the shot quite well. The problem is, the Eraser is old as dirt and has been resurfaced many times. I really need to find a ball that will react the same. I'm standing about 25 and throwing it around 16. It's hitting out to about 10 and coming up nicely. Anyone recommend a ball that would react about the same? I've considered the Storm Pitch Black but I don't want to buy another ball that isn't going to work for me. Any suggestions? Any make is ok with me honestly. I've always bowled better with Storm products but I'm not committed to Storm by any means. Thanks guys!
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So I started a new league this year at a local house. The lanes are pretty dry compared to other leagues I've been in. It was suggested by someone I know well in bowling to pick up the Arson Low Flare Solid for a dryer shot. So I bought it. I told the guy at the pro-shop I needed it to be non-aggressive so it won't hook that much on a dry shot. This is the pro-shop in the bowling alley I am bowling at so he knows how dry the lanes are. He drilled it with the pin centered above the fingers. I threw it on that shot and can't seem to keep it on the lane. I rev it quite a bit but my speed only stays around 15-15.50. So I'm about average or just below in speed. So I actually resorted back to my old Storm Eraser and I'm hitting the shot quite well. The problem is, the Eraser is old as dirt and has been resurfaced many times. I really need to find a ball that will react the same. I'm standing about 25 and throwing it around 16. It's hitting out to about 10 and coming up nicely. Anyone recommend a ball that would react about the same? I've considered the Storm Pitch Black but I don't want to buy another ball that isn't going to work for me. Any suggestions? Any make is ok with me honestly. I've always bowled better with Storm products but I'm not committed to Storm by any means. Thanks guys!
You may want to look into something like the SuperNatural by Storm. That ball is a true dry lane ball as it is polished and has very little resin in the cover. The cover on the Low Flare is still pretty strong. You need a weaker cover to help get the ball down the lane. Since you sound to be rev dominate; going with a polished urethane might be the way to go.
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So I started a new league this year at a local house. The lanes are pretty dry compared to other leagues I've been in. It was suggested by someone I know well in bowling to pick up the Arson Low Flare Solid for a dryer shot. So I bought it. I told the guy at the pro-shop I needed it to be non-aggressive so it won't hook that much on a dry shot. This is the pro-shop in the bowling alley I am bowling at so he knows how dry the lanes are. He drilled it with the pin centered above the fingers. I threw it on that shot and can't seem to keep it on the lane. I rev it quite a bit but my speed only stays around 15-15.50. So I'm about average or just below in speed. So I actually resorted back to my old Storm Eraser and I'm hitting the shot quite well. The problem is, the Eraser is old as dirt and has been resurfaced many times. I really need to find a ball that will react the same. I'm standing about 25 and throwing it around 16. It's hitting out to about 10 and coming up nicely. Anyone recommend a ball that would react about the same? I've considered the Storm Pitch Black but I don't want to buy another ball that isn't going to work for me. Any suggestions? Any make is ok with me honestly. I've always bowled better with Storm products but I'm not committed to Storm by any means. Thanks guys!
I bowl in a house with a similar type shot. I've tried several balls and still have not found a winner. A team mate of mine is using the Storm Super Natural and is doing fairly well. If he had your speed it would probably be perfect. Another bowler in the league has gone to a Columbia Scout and he seems to be very happy with it. He says it keeps him from over-hooking.
If you try something and it works, please let us know. Good luck.
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Why not just keep using the Storm Eraser if you are bowling well with it? Nothing wrong with an older ball as long as the ball return can still pick it up.
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Why not just keep using the Storm Eraser if you are bowling well with it? Nothing wrong with an older ball as long as the ball return can still pick it up.
I agree. Why get something new if what you're using is working great?
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I am perfectly content with using the Eraser. However, the last time I had it resurfaced, the guy told me since the ball label (the eraser logo) was almost gone from the ball from having been resurfaced so many times, its time for a new one. I know bowling but I don't know equipment that well so I assumed he was right. Is that not right?
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Standing 25 gives you another 15 or so left with your feet.
You could also take the surface up on the Arson Low Flare and then go with extender polish.
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UFO polish that Eraser..
( I had the Eraser PBT?....damn good house ball for me at the time...did I mention I like pearl particles)
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I am perfectly content with using the Eraser. However, the last time I had it resurfaced, the guy told me since the ball label (the eraser logo) was almost gone from the ball from having been resurfaced so many times, its time for a new one. I know bowling but I don't know equipment that well so I assumed he was right. Is that not right?
According to the last USBC rule I recall, as long as the serial number is still legible, you're throwing a legal ball. FYI the pro shop can re-engrave the serial number.
I'd be more concerned about all the oil the Eraser has absorbed. Have you ever had an oil extraction done? That's as important as a proper surface to getting a good ball reaction and hitting power.
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Yes I've had it done quite a few times. The local shop calls it a "rejuvenation". As a matter of fact, the first time I had it done (a few years ago) he had it for 2 or 3 days because it was so soaked. lol After that, I learned to have it done at least once a year.
I did have the Low Flare Solid polished after I first tried it on that shot. It goes a lot longer for sure. But snaps a lot harder in the back end. It sort of defeated the purpose of polishing it. lol
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My Nail Titanium with a "weak" layout works very well for me on dry-light oil conditions.
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The more I read about the Super Natural, the more I like it. I guess my main worry is that the guy drilling it is going to drill it appropriately for the way I roll the ball. I think that's been an issue all along. I bought a Tropical Heat a few years back and it was supposed to be a "weaker" ball. I knew the guy at the pro-shop and he said he had to drill it a little aggressive so I could get some reaction out of it. Well, I couldn't keep that one on the lane either. Needless to say, I don't go to that guy anymore. I sold that ball to my brother who uses it just fine.
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Roto Neptune, Saturn, Track Desert Heat
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Curious which house you are referring to?
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It's Crossgate Lanes in Blue Ash, OH. A little north of Cincy.
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I've been reading some threads about UFO polish. Think that would work on the Low Flare Solid to give me what I need? Sounds like I'd be able to keep it on the lane. Any downfalls about using it besides the fact of having to reapply so often? I don't have a spinner so it'd have to either be done by hand or I'd have to have it done at the pro-shop each time.
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I've been reading some threads about UFO polish. Think that would work on the Low Flare Solid to give me what I need? Sounds like I'd be able to keep it on the lane. Any downfalls about using it besides the fact of having to reapply so often? I don't have a spinner so it'd have to either be done by hand or I'd have to have it done at the pro-shop each time.
UFO, in addition to putting a shine on the ball, reduces the overall hook and reduces the backend, when properly applied. It has an organic slip agent that restricts the absorption of oil , which provides resin coverstocks with a lot of their hooking ability. By the time it wears off, around 25 games, you need to reapply most polishes in any case.
Whether or not it allows you to use any ball on drier conditions than that for the ball was designed is an experiment you need to perform. It depends on too many factors.
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Yeah I already had the ball polished. It goes a lot longer but snaps up harder in the back end now. So it didn't help me much. I just wasn't sure if the UFO polish would help. I guess it's worth a try.
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It's Crossgate Lanes in Blue Ash, OH. A little north of Cincy.
Ask Dave in the pro shop. I got a Roto scream from him for my dry ball, but I am more a stroker. Super natural maybe?
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That's who I had drill the Arson Low Flare for me. Although I didn't really ask him his opinion. I just told him I wanted that ball and he ordered it. I was going to go in Monday but forgot he's closed on Mondays. Couldn't go in yesterday so I may stop by there today and see what he says.
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I had my proshop guy suggest a track tour sic. I throw a bit faster than you but it is a High RG ball that gets through the front and mid lane with easy. It makes a nice move to the pocket. It doesn't snap of the dry just nice steady movement to the pocket. I was watching everyone in my team last week go through the nose off the dry and I stayed whacking them.
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Take a look at the new ABS Bullet. Hook potential is in the range of a urethane ball, but it is a low rg, low diff reactive. Reviews in BJ said they could square up on almost any patterns. Recommended for low speed and/or high rev guys on short dry patterns.
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I'm having a big problem in my league. One of my longest balls, a Storm Lights Out, is way too strong, even at the start of the first game. It's old wood lanes, very light oil, but they put down a sport shot. It was so short and dry that I had to start with my spareball, which is a Roto Crown. I could get it to the pocket, but OMG, I had 12 splits in 3 games, including (2) 7-10's in a row. Went 0-12 in converting the splits. Plus it was the last match of the season, we were in first place by 3 points.....and thanks to me.....we ended up in second. UGH.
But anyway, I was thinking about something weak with a core, like a Track Spare+ or a Hammer True Blood, which is supposed to be like a Taboo Spare(?).
Would something like this be too strong? Any preference between the 2?
I have a Storm Supernatural, and it's too strong for this condition.
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I've been reading some threads about UFO polish. Think that would work on the Low Flare Solid to give me what I need? Sounds like I'd be able to keep it on the lane. Any downfalls about using it besides the fact of having to reapply so often? I don't have a spinner so it'd have to either be done by hand or I'd have to have it done at the pro-shop each time.
Try a P1 balance hole. For a symmetrical ball that will be 6 3/4" from a spot just left of the thumb hole to the VAL. Start small, say 5/8", and 2.5" deep. Increase the size, if needed, until you get the reaction you want. Drilling too large a hole will reduce the reaction too much. Of course, you'll have to keep the static weights legal. -- JohnP
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Try a P1 balance hole. For a symmetrical ball that will be 6 3/4" from a spot just left of the thumb hole to the VAL. Start small, say 5/8", and 2.5" deep. Increase the size, if needed, until you get the reaction you want. Drilling too large a hole will reduce the reaction too much. Of course, you'll have to keep the static weights legal. -- JohnP
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll talk to Dave at the pro-shop today about popping that hole to see if that'll help. I appreciate that!
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I bowl up in the other corner of the state. The house I bowl in plays pretty dry as well. The head oil goes fast and I was struggling with either going through the nose, or worse the ball burning up. My pro shop guy recommended the Track Tour X. It's shiny surface gets it down the lane without burning up but make a pretty smooth move to the pocket. It's really working well for me. You might consider it.
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Well, went to the guy at the pro-shop before bowling last night. He wasn't so sure a balance hole would do anything. He wanted to watch me throw it. By the time I got back and started bowling, I gave up and just went back to the ball that I bowl well with there anyway. I didn't even bother asking him more. I did order UFO polish but he also informed me that when he polished my ball, he put a slip agent on it which did make the ball go much longer. But it snaps harder in the back end now. So it sounds like the ball just isn't right for those lanes. It was ok on a shot with more oil. Still a bit strong but manageable. I'm probably going to look more into the Super Natural as a replacement for my very old and aging Eraser.
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I bowl up in the other corner of the state. The house I bowl in plays pretty dry as well. The head oil goes fast and I was struggling with either going through the nose, or worse the ball burning up. My pro shop guy recommended the Track Tour X. It's shiny surface gets it down the lane without burning up but make a pretty smooth move to the pocket. It's really working well for me. You might consider it.
What ball were you using before you got the Track Tour X?
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I have a Super Natural and it goes long, but the backend is pretty strong.
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I bowl up in the other corner of the state. The house I bowl in plays pretty dry as well. The head oil goes fast and I was struggling with either going through the nose, or worse the ball burning up. My pro shop guy recommended the Track Tour X. It's shiny surface gets it down the lane without burning up but make a pretty smooth move to the pocket. It's really working well for me. You might consider it.
What ball were you using before you got the Track Tour X?
I tried a few different balls actually. Pin down Torrid Elite, Pin beside ring Yeti Untamed, and Pin up Asylum. Pretty much all of the checked too early or burned up before getting to the pocket. I also was using a IQtp with pin in the middle finger. It's a great ball to use when the lanes are a bit fried, but the combination of the burned up heads forcing me over center arrow with flying backends make the ball a bit unpredictable. For me ( 13-14 mph and ~300-325 revs tweener), the Tour x gets both the desired length coupled with the smoother shape downlane. This keeps me out of trouble when the lanes are playing a bit tough. Hope that helps.
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So I took my Eraser into the pro-shop the other day to get "rejuvenated". Well, I find out that the serial # is completely gone from the ball. can't find it to re-engrave it. The logo of the ball is pretty much all gone. I talked to the guy filling in for the regular guy there about the Super Natural. His response is "you don't want that. that's a urethane. It won't hook at all for you". Now I'm very rev friendly. I throw the ball on average 15mph and rev it quite a bit. I'm sure I can get some hook out of it. But he was very against me getting it. He suggested I check out a Tropical Breeze instead. But he also, in the past, drilled a Tropical Heat for me but said he had to drill it strong so I'd get some hook out of it. Well, I couldn't keep it on the lane because it hooked so much. I just don't know what to do. Everything I suggest to them they say won't work for me.
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Oh and as a caveat to that info, I ended up throwing plastic last night because they dried up so bad. I was standing at 15 and throwing out to 10 and it was coming back to the pocket. I don't care for throwing plastic bc they just don't hit like my other balls but it was the only ball I didn't have to swing 20 boards last night. I can make plastic hook but he says I won't be able to make the Super Natural hook. lol
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The SuperNatural is definitely a step up from plastic. If you are having trouble with equipment hooking too much, here is what I would do. I would start with your plastic and move up from there. Get one ball at a time until you reach a point where you have no use for the next step up. For example:
1. Plastic (ball with core would be most beneficial)
2. Either regular urethane or Super Natural. The Super Natural will be a bit stronger than a regular urethane, or the shape will be different.
3. Low end reactive such as the RG Shout (preferably) or Scream. Even the Storm Tropical Breeze could be an option. Shout is a solid and would be a great first ball out and you can go down from there.
Based on what I have heard from you, this may be all you ever need. If you are able to either reduce your rev rate or increase your speed, then a re-evaluation would be needed. Or if you happen upon a different center with more oil.
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I appreciate the advice! That's great information. I was using a Hammer Spider Web last night. It sat right up into the pocket but just hit bad. I know that ball isn't made to hit hard but I need something maybe a bit stronger but also has a core for it to hit better. I'm thinking my next step would be a Super Natural at this point. Would you agree?
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I was using a Roto Grip Crown (plastic) and although I could get it to the pocket, the carry was horrible. Splits galore. I have a rg grenade and a Super Natural and they do hook on dry lanes with the SN going longer with a stronger backend. The Grenade turns early.
I am going to try the "in-between" ball. I just picked up a Hammer True Blood, a polyester ball with a Blood core. Had it drilled up but didn't get a chance to throw it yet.
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I can't think of too many other options at this point. Have you tried to scuff up your plastic yet? Adding some surface can also give you some added performance, though it would be only a little.
Typically, the "weakest" resin is the Storm Tropical Breeze. Everything else is just a tad bit stronger. Next step down is urethane which can be too early for a lot of people. There are pearl urethanes that help in delaying the early hook, but just a little. The Super Natural is a mix between the two, weak resin mixed with urethane. It will be stronger than urethane but will also give a more resin-like reaction that most people are used to seeing.
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I am also having issues with my favorite place being dry all the time now. I am considering the upcoming Storm Ride.
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900 Global Desert Hook. Weak reactive ball that hits very good. Unusual combination.
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I am also having issues with my favorite place being dry all the time now. I am considering the upcoming Storm Ride.
The Ride seems to use the same coverstock as the Tropical Breeze (but in hybrid form) and stronger core than the one in the Trop. Breeze.
See https://www.stormbowling.com/products/balls/ride (https://www.stormbowling.com/products/balls/ride)
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So is the Pitch Black actually weaker then? The dry is just killing me. I'm just not good enough to move 10+ boards left of normal.
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I think the storm pitch black is pretty strong. The storm tropical breeze is what I would suggest for you. I use to be 15 mph and high rev thumb less and the tropicalbreeze would go long and very smooth in the back even tho its dry. You can Prolly play 11 board with it and go inside to 15 if you want its a great ball.
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If they are really dry, I use my Hammer True Blood, but I recently picked up a Columbia Deep Freeze and it works and carries alot better than the True Blood.
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So is the Pitch Black actually weaker then? The dry is just killing me. I'm just not good enough to move 10+ boards left of normal.
Try moving just 2 or 3 boards, as a start, and keeping the same target as a way to start learning. All it requires other than the move with your feet is to change the angle of your body and shoulders, so you're still pointing at the target.
Even owning 8 or 15 balls is not going to allow you to play the same line in every league in every house in every tournament.
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Track Spare+ has the asymmetrical core similar to the LX16 line and I love mine for 10 pins and it does flare just over 2" or so! Just my $.02, Bruce
http://www.ballreviews.com/track/spare-t302742.0.html
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I did test a Super Natural this afternoon, and it allowed to me stand where I wanted on a dry lane but it had very little power.
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Get yourself a urethane ball. Don't get it with the expectation that it will be a hook monster on the lanes. If your able get yourself a ball made in the 90"s get it. Those balls create a lot more friction on the lanes. They tend to start up earlier. As opposed to the newer urethanes that look like pearls that will skid down the lane further than what you are expecting. The older balls will be much easier to surface to your liking. I purchased a couple of New vintage Columbia Sting Rays 9 years ago. Like you I am rev dominant. It is the first ball out of the bag and pretty much of the time the ball I finish with. The first one out is 500 grit green pad surface no weight hole for lanes with some oil to 36". The second is polished to 1200 with weight hole on super dry backends.
If your stuck on storm stuff look for an old Dark Thunder. It's a resin urethane blend way too strong for me on dry.
Or look for a discontinued Motiv Tank on EBAY. Good strong ball on dry lanes until the carry down makes you move
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I did test a Super Natural this afternoon, and it allowed to me stand where I wanted on a dry lane but it had very little power.
Ah, a dangerous word, "wanted".
If I might suggest, you should stand where you need to stand, not where you want to stand. The oil pattern and the lane surface determine where your style needs you to stand.
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Sorry cincybowler82 was not ginkinht htiw ftel niarb mentality. Go buy yourself a new Storm Crux Pearl and stand left gutter cap and launch to 10 board. I forget that ftel niarb gnikniht is to combat the lanes with harder hooking balls when they are drier. Or change hand position. Or play where there is less traffic on the lanes that dictates using the same ball with less hand or a lesser hook potential ball that can achieve the same entry angle from a lesser used part of the lane. Stand where you are comfortable and hcnual.
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I meant I was standing at my usual starting spot when the oil is fresh and before I would have to move left. I'm okay going left two at a time until I reach about 10 then I want to go back with a weaker ball. The SN let me stand in the same spot and hit the pocket solid when the lanes were now dry. It just didn't have much power with a solid hit. I experimented some and that was definitely the right place to stand and throw to. I'm working on it. Obviously it a big challenge for me.
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Sorry wasn't trying to be mean. Try knocking off some cover from the SN to a lower grit below stock then repolish to get some of the pop from the back end.
I've had a few friends whom have had surgeries to repair their right wrists and left knees because of the way they bowled. Yes they were touring pros who are not able to participate at that level or even as regional players. One of whom had switched to bowl left handed and released the ball the as he had with right hand. Bad for him. Surgery to repair left wrist and no longer bowling.
It had been at their insistence to be competitive to use stronger equipment when the shot gets burned to move more left throw it harder. I see the same with league scratch bowlers burning up the shot so quick inside they can't even put up a decent 3rd game.
Food for thought. Over the last 15yrs. there has been maybe 4 pros with 15 or more tour wins. Walter Ray Williams 21 regular tour, Norm Duke with 17 regular tour titles Chris Barnes 15 and Poor Mika at 15. All three can grip it n rip it. Play straighter is greater. And still be consistent inside or outside the shot of other players.
Good Luck play smarter not harder
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If you use 16 pound equipment look into the visionary Blue/Green Centaur. Bowlerscellar.com was just selling nib 16lbers on ebay for $75.00....they don't list it on their website, but they listed them on ebay which recently ended and they haven't relisted yet...check with them.....Although back when I had the ball it wasn't the right match for me, several Posters here....Namely Charlest and Scotts33 will swear by the ball on lighter drier conditions. One thing I remember well about the ball was that it did hit extremely hard.
Brad
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If you use 16 pound equipment look into the visionary Blue/Green Centaur. Bowlerscellar.com was just selling nib 16lbers on ebay for $75.00....they don't list it on their website, but they listed them on ebay which recently ended and they haven't relisted yet...check with them.....Although back when I had the ball it wasn't the right match for me, several Posters here....Namely Charlest and Scotts33 will swear by the ball on lighter drier conditions. One thing I remember well about the ball was that it did hit extremely hard.
Brad
For those that know the Arson Low Flare; the BG Centaur will roll pretty similar to that though the cover may not be quite as strong. But it will be close. Out of the box is rolls very even. However; if it has polish; it will become more angular on the backend if you have decent rev rate. The cover on the Centaur is fairly strong. So if the backends are pretty fresh, especially on a higher friction surface, the ball can pop a little. It wont be a true skid/flip ball. But it can have some pop.
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Well I picked up a SD Super Natural for $40 from a local bowler. I took it today to have the thumb hole plugged and redrilled. It was a tad off for me. Took it down to Hitt's Pro Shop near Walt's in Newport. Josh was very helpful. If this ball doesn't work out, he wants me to come back and let him see me throw so he can suggest some equipment for me.
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Well, first night with the Super Natural and shot a 698. Can't complain. I like it so far!
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Well, first night with the Super Natural and shot a 698. Can't complain. I like it so far!
Great news my friend! Glad to hear that you had success with it. Hopefully it will continue.
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I should have shot higher but the first game I was doing a lot of adjusting and getting used to how the ball was reacting. I only had a 207 first game. Came back the next 2 with 240 something, 240 something. I got used to it really quick.
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Bowlerscellar.com just relisted the Blue/green Centaur on ebay $75.00 ... They only have 16, buts if that's your weight here's a very hard hitting light oil ball.
Brad